- Jason Breed - Gardening Guru

I am a horticulturalist...I can solve the problems that you didn't know you had in & ways that are beyond your comprehension...

[jasonthegardeningguru]

I'm in the need for mead...next batch brewing - slightly late this year as I normally have it going ready for Yule...looks like I'll be buying some this year and have this batch in the spring.

[jasonthegardeningguru]

Goodbye my friend - I'm not ready to say those words - you were so loving last night whilst I drank my glass of wine and head douched me and wanted fuss.

I came down to silence when normally I am met with your dulcet tones of wanting your breakfast - no longer will I see your whiskers move as you anticipate your biscuits.

Just yesterday you made me laugh with this but today all I feel is sadness...goodbye Monty man - run free over the rainbow bridge - I hope you are met by the others...

[jasonthegardeningguru]

Had a fantastic morning at the Viola & Pansy Festival at W D Smith & Son today.

A vast array of variety in colour and form - from all the major breeders with a few newbies on show.

Great to see all these being trialled in one place.

The first thing to hit you other than the colour was the fragrance of all those flowers in full bloom.

#viola #pansy #springcolour #gardening #wintercolour #patiogardening #plants #plantsmakepeoplehappy #violaandpansyfestival

[jasonthegardeningguru]

Just came across the news that Gunnera is now going to be banned due to its a "so-called" invasive species.

My personal belief is every plant has its place - I have fond memories of a college trip to Cambridge Botanical Gardens - whilst visiting we had a sudden downpour and remember seeing all the students sheltering underneath it's leaves looking like a bunch of sprightly pixies.

Other recent memories are my visits to Fairhaven Water Gardens, which is near to where I live, where they have some fantastic specimens and other species like the Skunk Cabbage which also have been removed from the gardener's paint palette.

Banning something that is in common production after so long seems strange as unlike the dreaded Japanese Knotweed or the Giant Hog Weed - I can honestly say I have never seen a Gunnera escape into the wild.

A favourite for pond enthusiasts as a water edge plant unless you have a property on the flood plain, this plant will easily die when starved of water.

With this being - in the "you can no longer grow" category - what's next, Buddleja? Bamboo? Campsis? Mint? Leylandii? Baby Tears?

Many species I can mention that once left to their own devices and not kept in check can be as damaging to the environment as the Gunnera if not more so...or is this a case like Japanese Knotweed - too little too late?

#gunnera #giantrhubarb #gardening #gardens #gardeningtips #gardeninglife #plantban #gunneramanicata

[jasonthegardeningguru]

Retrieved my crop of 'Jumbo' apples yesterday before the damn wasps have them all - it is a wonderful variety which can be used as a cooker or an eating apple.

I always cook mine - did a crumble pie - crumble pie - for those who cannot make their mind's up...

[jasonthegardeningguru]

FITO Drip Feeders for Foliage Plants are the easiest way of ensuring your foliage plants - in & around the home get the nutrients that they need.

Each 32ml vial will feed your plant for 15 days & all you need to worry about is making sure it gets enough water.

Available in singles or in multi-packs of 5 from all good stockists of horticultural products.

[jasonthegardeningguru]

@buckinghamgardencentre Possibly the best display of Cacti & Succulents I've seen - everything from plants to pots to cacti memoribelia - the only thing missing is FITO Drop By Drop feeders for Cactus - each 32ml vial will feed your cactus or succulent for 15 days. (at Buckingham Nurseries and Garden Centre) https://www.instagram.com/p/BwR8a3sl4kK/?igshid=1itgpnphul2s

[jasonthegardeningguru]

Promenaea 'Sunlight' - not widely available but these small, slightly pendulous, bright yellow flowers are a must for any orchid enthusiast. Best fed every 15 days with FITO Drip Feeders for Orchids. (at Aylett Nurseries) https://www.instagram.com/p/BvwKqvBFhJq/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=rljiqi18knyp

[jasonthegardeningguru]

Cymbidium Orchids make amazing houseplants - don't let their exotic-look fool you - these are easy to grow & fed regularly with FITO Drip Feeders for Orchids every 15 days. #orchids #houseplants (at Aylett Nurseries) https://www.instagram.com/p/BvwJ9omFV6_/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=tp2ow20styvq

[jasonthegardeningguru]

PLANTS TO LOOK OUT FOR THIS MONTH: April 2019

Olea europaea (The Olive Tree)

This slow growing, evergreen tree is grown around the world for its edible fruit. The olive used to be grown in this country as a conservatory plant but in recent years the plants resilience to our climate has meant that it can be grown outside in the garden in a sheltered sunny site.

The narrow grey-green foliage is silvery beneath. Tiny fragrant white flowers are borne in short racemes in late summer. If you are lucky edible fruits will follow these.

They can be grown in the garden or on the patio in a container and will tolerate being trained into standards or even being pleached and grown two dimensionally against a wall.

Height and spread can reach up to 10 m.

Chaenomeles x superba ‘Pink Lady’ (Japanese Quince)

This beautiful strain of this popular deciduous shrub grows to 1.2 m in height and spreads 1.5 m.

The delightful mid pink flowers from late March through to May. Once the flowers finish these slowly set into edible golden yellow fruit that can be turned into quince jelly.

It makes an ideal shrub to train against a fence or wall especially if it is north or east facing.

They also can be trained into bonsai & also will grow reasonably in a pot on the patio.

Prunus ‘Kiku-Shidare Sakura.’ (Cheal’s Weeping Cherry)

A beautiful and pendulous small tree that is ideal for gardens of any size. The arching stems bear pale green leaves after the beautiful clusters of double pink flowers in April.

The leaves as with all cherries turn in the autumn to brilliant fiery shades.

The Cheal’s Weeping Cherry will grow in any soil as long as it’s well prepared with a growing medium.

It grows to height of about 3 m+ and a spread of about the same but it can be restricted as long as when you prune it you seal all the wounds up with a pruning compound.

This weeping cherry is a popular small tree and often gets planted in the centre of front gardens as a feature.

Brunnera macrophylla ‘Jack Frost’ (Perennial Forget-me-not)

This recent introduction for over the pond is ideal for anyone with a partially shaded area.

This woodland plant has heart-shaped silver leaves with a narrow green edge and green laced veins.

It has sprays of forget-me-not like flowers in spring that compliment the foliage well. Before planting ensure that plenty of organic matter as Brunnera require a humus rich soil. They like a moist yet free-draining soil as well.

The blue flowers appear from March through until May and grows to a height of 30 cm and spread of 45 cm.

[jasonthegardeningguru]

PEST PROBLEMS FOR THE MONTH: April 2019

Start a weekly weeding program.

A majority of gardeners now have their gardens neat and tidy.

Unfortunately, we as gardeners can become complacent and with all the other jobs going on, we can easily forget the most important job and that is to keep your plants and your crops weed free.

Why not do a little and often to ease the load?

Also keep scraping and ruttling the soil over to deter weed seed from germinating.

If you have a particular weed that keeps returning no matter what you do - then why not spray with a trans-located/systemic weed killer like Glyphosate to kill it off right down to roots just be careful that none drifts onto prize plants that you want to keep.

Start a spray program against American Mildew.

Gooseberries can suffer with a terrible form of mildew.

This form can hamper the foliage and crop of your plants.

It covers the foliage gets covered in a white mould which if left can turn to brown.

It is caused by overcrowding and over feeding with high nitrogen feeds.

To combat this severe strain of mildew is to start a spray program using a fungicide.

Spray with COPPER MIXTURE every two weeks.

By spraying this regularly will hopefully deter this disease.

Another way to deter this disease is to give your plants plenty of spacing and plant them on an airy, open site.

Fungus brackets.

If you have noticed some fungal growth on the base of a tree in the garden it could be a serious sign that your plant is on its last legs.

The growths can even be seen on larger branches further up the trunk of the tree.

The fungus can seriously weaken the structure of the tree. It is best to get a trained tree surgeon to examine the tree for a diagnosis.

Removal of the brackets may limit the spread of the disease. But removal of the tree will be inevitable.

Mint Rust.

On inspecting mint plants in the garden and your containers you may notice signs of distress.

The leaves and stems will be flecked with yellow pustules and the growth will be distorted.

This distress shows its signs when growth first starts in the spring. Underneath the leaves orangey-grey, cup-like fungal bodies develop. In its latter stages the mint rust can be blackish-brown.

The fungal disease survives the winter on the dead stems and in the soil.

Control can be difficult. Infected plants should be lifted and disposed of.

In its early stages the use of a flame weed gun can come in handy. Burn all the infected plants growth to the ground and also scorch the surface of the soil and you may find the new growth which grows back may well not be infected, but it is easiest to remove them and replant some mint in a new position.

This disease can also affect other herbs like marjoram, oregano and savory.

So try not to plant these into the vacant lot.

Goat Moth Caterpillar in Birches.

If you have noticed birch trees in the garden haven’t shown signs of sprouting at the top or even a large majority of the tree - then it could be that the tree has been girdled by Goat Moth caterpillars.

The Goat Moth is a large moth with a wingspan of 90 mm and is usually around June and July. Widely distributed around Europe and is nocturnal and rests on tree trunks during the day.

The female at this time will lay its eggs into cracks in the bark of the tree and it is the larvae that do the damage to your tree.

The larvae bore into the trunk of the tree producing a tunnel and can cause girdling and subsequently the tree fails causing die back. The caterpillars hibernate twice then pupate into a cocoon in the May of its third year that a perfect moth emerges 4-6 weeks later.

If you have noticed your tree has a notch and above this area is dead - then it is most definitely damage from this amazing moth.

If you can get your hand into the hole carefully rummage around you may find a pink caterpillar, reddish-pink in colour and about 50 mm in length. 

Unfortunately, if the tree is completely dead from above the damaged area then all you can do for satisfaction is to use on the caterpillar is that great organic method of place on block A and hit with block B. Then return inside and find out the number of a local tree surgeon.  

[jasonthegardeningguru]

FRUIT & VEGETABLE GARDENING JOBS FOR THE MONTH: April 2019

Figs need feeding.

Figs need feeding this month with a high potash feed.

Use a granular or liquid form preferably feeds that you would use for either roses like FITO FORTE ROSE & SHRUB GRANULAR SLOW RELEASE FERTILISER – this feeds up to 4 months & with its specially formulated blend it will help your plants produce healthier leaves & a stronger root system.

Or a feed for tomatoes like FITO FORTE TOMATO LIQUID FERTILISER – this feed will help give your plants the right amount of nutrients to give you a wonderful crop of full flavoured figs – the fertiliser also helps your plants produce a strong stem & root system helping with the formulation of a tastier crop – plus also can be used for other plants that require a high potash feed.

Before feeding remove any winter damage from the plant. If they are badly damaged follow them right down to the point of origin and remove them.

Cut back some older shoots down to one or two buds from their origin. This will help stimulate some healthy young shoots and help the plant to rejuvenate itself.

If you have fan trained your plant tie in the new stems and space them well.

Start creating Celery trenches.

It’s time to make up Celery trenches.

By creating them now it will give the trench time to settle before planting.

Dig a trench 26 cm (10”) deep, about the same as a spit of the spade.

In this trench line it with a thick layer of matured manure.

The access soil should be rounded off at the sides to provide an ideal growing area for lettuce or beans etc. and for blanching the celery later.

The trenches should be 30-40 cm (12-15”) wide for a single row or at least 45 cm (18”) wide for a double row.

Now is the time to start sowing – sow .5 cm (1/4”) deep in a seed tray of John Innes Seed Compost.

Water well then place in a cold frame, greenhouse or cool windowsill. Try and keep at a temperature of 15-20C (60-68F) to encourage good germination.

The seedlings should appear in 14-21 days. Transplant them into trays 5cm (2”) apart into John Innes No.1 when they are large enough to handle.

As they grow on harden them off to outdoor conditions planting out into your trenches 25cm apart.

Once the growth on your plants is 30cm tall “earth-up” with the access soil from the trench sides – this will allow your plants to blanch up.

Crop from August onwards and keep the crop well-watered and feed regularly with a liquid fertiliser like FITO FORTE ALL PURPOSE LIQUID FERTILISER – this feed will help give your plants the right amount of nutrients to give you a wonderful crop – the fertiliser also helps your plants produce a strong stem & root system helping with the formulation of a tastier crop.

Good varieties to try are Celery Green Utah

or try something slightly different like Celery Giant Red.

 Plant out Leeks.

Leeks can now be planted out.

There are two ways of growing them.

The first is to create a trench similar to a celery trench but only have it about 15 cm deep.

Place some well rotted manure in the base of the trench and also apply some FITO FORTE UNIVERSAL GRANULAR SLOW RELEASE FERTILISER to increase the fertility of the soil then hoe in.

Plant the young leeks at a depth of 5 cm in single or double rows. As the plants grow on – “earth-up” the soil around them – the same as you do for celery.

Another way is to grow them in holes.

It is similar method except each leek is planted into a hole of the same depth as trench.

This method is ideal for people with a smaller plot or where ornamental and edible crops are being planted together.

Leeks will thrive in a rich, fertile soil so make sure that the area is prepared well before planting.

[jasonthegardeningguru]

LAWN CARE FOR THE MONTH: April 2019

Dig out patches of coarse grass.

Whilst working around the garden you may come across areas of coarse grass in your lawn areas. These can make the lawn look uneven and can cause problems with mowing.

These patches are weed grasses and will need to be removed as they can be susceptible to drought and disease.

If left in amongst your turf they can cause various problems with your lawn’s life.

These patches should be dug out, filled in with some sieved lawn soil. Add a general-purpose fertiliser then replaced the coarse grass with either some fresh turf or some grass seed.

Get rid of those troublesome weeds.

This month is the time to combat those troublesome lawn weeds.

Clover, Speedwell, Buttercups etc. can often be the bane of every lawns man up and down the country.

These can be easily dealt with by using a brand liquid weed-killer.

Another way is to remove them manually with a specialised tool like a weed-key. This tool is inserted into the turf then turned and then lift. The troublesome weed is removed with its root.

Of course, this can also be easily done with an old kitchen knife.

Once the weed is removed have some top soil handy to fill the hole.

Start feeding the lawn.

Up and down the country people will be getting ready to start applying some high-nitrogen feeds to their lawns to help keep the turf thick and green.

If you are applying any fertiliser - please follow the manufacturer’s instructions to the letter. If you apply too much to one area you may end up harming the lawn.

It is also worth finding a product that will help control any weed and moss problems that you have in your turf.

These granular lawn feeds can be applied by hand or by using a spreader. If you are a serious about your lawn, then it is worth purchasing one.

Most manufacturers of lawn chemicals usually sell a spreader for applying the chemical. The only problem is that most spreaders only can be used for the application of lawn feeds and end up at the back of the shed collecting dust.

Best find a spreader that can be used for a multiple of uses.

These spreaders can not only be used for lawn fertilisers but can also be used through the year for over-seeding, applying garden fertilisers and in the winter can be used for salting paths and driveways.

Please watch the weather carefully. If it doesn’t rain within 2-3 days after the applying your lawn care product then water in using a hose.

If you don’t want to double work and knowing our British weather - it can be useful applying a feed that is watered in. This can save you time but on large areas of grass it can seem an uphill struggle.

Keep mowing.

Keep mowing all through this month.

When mowing the lawn ensure that you do not scalp the grass.

Try and keep your Cherokee blood under control, your turf should be kept at around 5 cm in length.

By keeping the lawn in this shaggy, beatnik state, it will help the turf survive and stay greener through any dry spells we may have over the coming months (JASON’S TOP TIP: Just keep the barbecue in the garage and we’ll have a brilliant summer!).

[jasonthegardeningguru]

FLOWER GARDENING JOBS FOR THE MONTH: April 2019

Feed Shrubs & Climbing Plants.

Shrubs - this month will benefit from a top dress of fertiliser.

This will give them a boost after the winter.

Apply a handful of fertiliser for each plant.

Scatter the plant food around the base of your plants and then lightly hoe in.

There are various feeds available on the market but it can be useful and easier to find which can be used for all types of shrubs.

An ideal feed to use is FITO FORTE ROSE & SHRUB GRANULAR SLOW RELEASE FERTILISER – this feeds up to 4 months & with its specially formulated blend it will help your plants produce healthier leaves & a stronger root system.

For climbing plants & wall shrubs – use FITO FORTE HYDRANGEA & CLIMBING PLANT GRANULAR SLOW RELEASE FERTILISER – this again feeds up to 4 months & the special formulation is ideal for all types of climbers, wall shrubs & all types of Hydrangeas.

Once applied - check that the soil - if it is dry then give each plant a welcomed drink.

Then apply a mulch of bark or cocoa shell which will help reduce moisture loss from the soil in the months ahead.

Protect young foliage.

The British weather can be unpredictable.

You may need to protect the young foliage and flower buds of various shrubs, trees, herbaceous plants, annuals and vegetables.

These will need the protection from some horticultural fleece.

Cover them in the evening if the weather forecast gives threats of ground frost or if the sky is clear and the temperature is cool.

In the morning once the frost has thawed – remove the fleece and hang up to dry – then place back in position when needed.

Prune early flowering shrubs.

Early flowering shrubs like Forsythia and Mahonia but to name but two - will have finished flowering and will need to be pruned.

Prune all flowering stems back to half their height.

Prune just above a bud or leaf and prune at a 45-degree angle away from the bud.

Thin out any weak or unwanted stems and also remove any stems that are growing into the plant.

Once pruned feed your plants with FITO FORTE ROSE & SHRUB GRANULAR SLOW RELEASE FERTILISER – this feeds up to 4 months & with its specially formulated blend it will help your plants produce healthier leaves & a stronger root system and then top dress with some fresh compost.

Finishing Touches.

As planting schemes and landscaping plans come to their completion you can sometimes stand back and think something is missing.

With all the plants in your plan now in position and starting to show signs of growth when suddenly you find that the garden has blended into the garden.

It is then you realise what is missing…a focal point, something to catch your eye as you scan through the interest of your planting scheme.

The next question which then springs to mind is what?

What is needed is some kind of garden ornament.

Whether it’s a tacky plastic gnome,

a classical statue,

a plain birdbath

 or a terracotta jar

these can all avert the eye to that certain area of the garden.

What you choose can be decided almost by the style of garden you have created.

Modern style gardens would look out of place with a classic statue but a Mexican jar, a modern sculpture or even an outdoor mirror to set into a cobbled area to give the impression of a dry pond. 

Mirror can also be used in small gardens placed on walls at the end of pathways framed inside a fake archway to give the illusion that your small plot continues.

More classic gardens with formal box hedging, topiary and neat rows require a more re-framed touch, a classic birdbath, sundial, statue or water feature set in central position.

Shady gardens lend themselves to having stone heads positioned in amongst foliage set especially with larger rocks set next to them and with ferns protruding from the nooks and crannies. 

Oriental gardens need bridges over ornamental ponds, Japanese style lanterns, bamboo poles set upright into the ground at various heights clustered together, a Buddha set inside a gazebo shrine or a cluster of peacock poles.

If you feel very artistic create a yin-yang using black and white granite blocks as a central feature in a sand garden.

Even your bog standard tacky plastic gnome can have its place (and I don’t mean firing practice for your son’s air rifle).

A solitary gnome grinning in amongst the foliage can be great in a magical, fairyland full of wind chimes, winding paths and other mythical ornaments ending at a playhouse for the children hide in their magical wonderland.

[jasonthegardeningguru]

GREENHOUSE JOBS FOR THE MONTH: April 2019

Plant Tomatoes in unheated greenhouses.

This month is the earliest that those of you with an unheated greenhouse can start cropping tomatoes.

First, you’ll need to sterilise the greenhouse by washing the glass and frame down with a disinfectant – personally I would use GET OFF NATURAL MULTI-SURFACE CLEANER – this product is designed to be used around the house as a pet friendly cleaner & there isn’t anything stopping you using it to cleanse your greenhouse.

Now if you are planting directly into the soil inside your glasshouse then you will need to add some goodness to the soil as it can be very barren and stale, especially if you have grown tomatoes in the same soil year after year.

Ideally dig in some organic material mixed with FITO FORTE UNIVERSAL GRANULAR SLOW RELEASE FERTILISER to increase the fertility of the soil.

Plant your plants but do not over water them as whilst they are in the early stages of growth the soil will be kept cold and this can hamper their progress.

Of course, most of you will prefer to use grow-bags if this is the case then only plant a maximum of 3 plants per grow-bag.

For the best results use a double height grow-bag - this has the right depth and volume for the even growth of your plants.

Keep watering to a minimum. Sometimes it can be worth planting your plants into 10-12” pots this allows the tomato plant to produce a good root system to support the plant.

As your plants develop feed regularly with FITO FORTE TOMATO LIQUID FERTILISER – this feed will help give your plants the right amount of nutrients to give you a wonderful crop of full flavoured tomatoes – the fertiliser also helps your plants produce a strong stem & root system helping with the formulation of a tastier crop.

In an unheated greenhouse the weather is your worst enemy.

If the weather takes a turn for the worse - it can be useful to keep some fleece handy to insulate the plants against the cold evenings.

If you have bubble insulation leave it up until late May as this will also help to protect the plants from any cold spells.

Start to harden off summer bedding plants.

Half-hardy annuals which are going to be used in your summer bedding schemes need to be placed outside on mild days to acclimatise them to outdoor conditions though remember to fetch them back into the greenhouse in the evening or if the weather turns cold throughout the day.

Fuchsias – time to pot on.

If you’re into Fuchsia plants, then they will need regular potting on until you are ready to transplant them out into the garden at the end of next month.

If left pot-bound your plants will flower early and then deteriorate before you get them into their positions for the summer.

When the roots have established pot the plants into the next sized pot usually about 2-3 cm up from what they are already in.

If you pot into a too large container the plant will produce too much foliage at the expense of your flowers.

Also keep pinching out the tips to encourage thick, bushy growth. By doing this it will delay your blooms though it will encourage more flowers later.

Do this by allowing the growth to get 15 cm in length and then pinch back to just above a pair of leaves leaving 10 cm worth of growth. Keep pinching back until the end of May.

Just in time to plant them out for blooming for the summer months.

Don’t throw this growth away as it can be used for cuttings to increase your stocks.

Also as your plants develop use FITO NATURAL DRIP FEEDERS FOR ALL PLANTS - these easy to use vials can be inserted into your pots helping you give your plants a good start - each vial will feed your plants for up to 15 days - giving them all the nutrients they need.

Start shading.

With the increase of daylight - it can be useful to start shade your glazing. By doing this now it will save you time and reduce any early scorching.

By painting a glazing white wash onto your glazing this will allow the light through but keep the harmful ultra-violet light out.

Make sure you get an even coverage. It can be applied with a brush though for quickness, apply with the use of a chemical sprayer. This will limit the amount of time spent doing this and more time enjoying your plants inside the greenhouse.

[jasonthegardeningguru]

[jasonthegardeningguru]

"No matter what life throws at you - shine your brightest." (at Leighton Buzzard) https://www.instagram.com/p/BuvidD_lwRb/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=7cxlw8z07kxz