Modeling Tips and Tricks

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Intro post yippee!

You can call me Default, and I'm stating another side blog dedicated purely to tips tricks or general modeling thoughts I wish I knew when I started out. Some of these won't be too ground breaking since I'm still learning myself, but hopefully someone can find it interesting!

I'll be doing stuff like sharing techniques, sharing tips, or discussing the pro's and con's of different brands, all on a budget!

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First painting tip of the blog!

Accuracy and Scale don't play well together. An accurate paint scheme may not actually look accurate on a smaller scale model.

I'm not quite sure the science behind it, but the smaller your model, the Darker your paints will look.

Especially if you're working with 1/72 scale kits if you want an accurate looking paint scheme, try adding a drop or two of a lighter shade to your color.

Though it can be a subtle difference, so don't loose sleep over it unless you're going for ultimate realism.

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Modeling Tip #2

If you've gotten into model kits, or maybe gotten some miniatures you need to assemble and glue together, you'll probably wonder what kind of glue you need. This is a quick overview of what I consider to be the 4 types of major glue to use when it comes to assembling kits.

Number 1: Super Glue

Super Glue is the most versatile of the glues, and if you only want one, this is the one to go for. Super Glue essentially works as just a really powerful bonder, like normal white glue. This gives it some advantages over other glues. For starters it works on just about anything, like resin, plastic, rubber, and metal. It can also be easily removed using a debonder allowing you to clean off access glue or remove glue altogether if you apply it to the wrong part without much trace. It's also fairly easy to get, with Loctite being a reliable brand, though depending on where you buy it you might have to be 18+.

That being said, there are a few downsides to Super glue. The biggest one is that the fumes are highly toxic, so only use it in a well ventilated area. Secondly I find that it can be really brittle, especially if you're using cheaper brands. Finally in my experience it has difficulty bonding porous materials together like wood or cardboard, since it seeps into the material leaving minimum glue on the surface to actually bond. You can work around this by either adding a second layer after the first has dried or by applying a primer first.

Number 2: Plastic Cement

Plastic Cement is my personal favorite to use, but is also the most specialized. Plastic Cement works by melting the plastic it's applied to so that when the two pieces are pushed against each other they essentially melt together creating a seem less bond between the two. This leaves a bond that's strong, flush, and with minimum cleanup. However the biggest flaw is quickly apparent in that it only works with plastic, so resin or metal won't be effected at all by plastic cement. Additionally if you apply it messily or to the wrong part, it will leave permanent damage even if cleaned up immediately. It also doesn't create any additional bonding material, meaning that if there are gaps between two parts it won't fill them in to create a stronger bond, and will only bond where the two parts are touching. It's also toxic so again, use in ventilated areas.

Unlike super glue, plastic cement is also harder to find at stores. I highly recommend Tamiya Super Thin, as you can use capillary actions to allow it to spread between cracks easily, making for quick and clean application.

Number 3: Two Part Epoxy

I haven't worked much with two part epoxy, but I think it's important enough to mention. Two Part Epoxy works by mixing a two part mixture (no duh) that when mixed will harden into a strong bonder. It's main benefit is that it creates a relatively stronger bond then super glue, making it perfect for assembling larger kits with weight issues (Like 40K Titan big). It's also good for metal parts. It's main cons however is that it's messy and sticks to anything it touches, meaning if it's applied messily it's nearly impossible to clean up. It's also pretty expensive and specialized, and once it's mixed up it'll start to harden, so if you mix up too much at once a lot can go to waist. Good if you need it, but otherwise I'd avoid using it unless you know you'll need it.

Number 4: White Glue

Finally is White Glue. This can be anything from PVA, to Tacky glue, to Elmer's glue. I guarantee you probably have this in your house already. White Glue creates weak bonds, so it's not great for permanently fixing plastic parts together, but it does have a lot of benefits. For starters it's weaker bond makes it great for creating temporary connections. For example I like to use white glue to attach miniatures to temporary bases to make painting easier, before easily detaching them to put in dioramas.

White Glue also has no issues applying to porous materials like Super Glue does, making it the go to for glueing wood, cardboard, or foam.

Finally white glue doesn't leave behind residue. Some glues like Super glue can leave behind a white substance that's usually described as "fogging." While usually easy to clean up, it can have issues when gluing clear parts since you won't be able to clean the inside while still being visible.

(example of fogging)

White Glue won't leave any residue behind, and usually drys clear meaning even when applied messily it will be hard to notice.

And that's the basics of the four major glue types for model and miniature assembly. I hope this was helpful!

[modelingtipstricks]

Modeling Tip # 1

The most important tool for modeling is a good hobby knife. Regardless if you're working with model kits, miniatures, diorama's, or scratch building anything, a good hobby knife is something you'll use for everything. Make sure to switch out your blades consistently too. While you're supposed to switch them out before every new project, that can get expensive fast so I usually wait until I can't make a clean pass without the knife skipping or tearing the material.

While it can be pricy, I find you do get what you pay for in terms of quality, so I highly recommend on buying name brand X-acto blades. Don't bother with buying multiple handles, just get whatever fits either your hand or budget and focus on getting replacement blades. I prefer size 11 X-acto blades myself.

Priceing:

replacement blades cost about 3.25 USD, 3.10 Euro, 2.60 Pound.