Here are the basics on how to draft a daxiushan, or large sleeved robe.
Daxiushan were summer garments made popular in the Tang Dynasty. They are made from light and airy fabric and known for their broad sleeves. Worn by noble ladies and courtesans for special occasions, the daxiushan has become a staple in modern hanfu for its voluminous and ethereal effect.
I recommend using extra lightweight fabrics such as organza, chiffon, or georgette to achieve the proper look. Contemporary daxiushan can even be made from sequined fabric or non-woven materials if desired.
This garment was worn by women and commonly paired with ruqun. Please see @ziseviolet‘s tag for a better explanation and examples.
Note: this garment requires a lot of fabric and is quite wide, if you want to make a proper pattern to save for later, make sure your paper is very large! Image from (x) (x)
Since they are loose fitting, they are very easy to size for.
Next, let’s look at a technical flat.
Like all hanfu there is no shoulder seam, so the front half flows across the shoulder to the back as one piece.
The hardest part to draft and sew is under the arms. Because the panel extends out from the body and connects to the sleeves, it’s quite a tight curve and requires delicate sewing to help it remain smooth. I always recommend French seams when sewing hanfu as well as careful clipping and notching.
The daxiushan has side slits or vents that help it flutter and move around the wearer. The height of these slits is up to the designer, but they usually start around hip level. The rest of the garment has a slight flare, but not too much since the garment is so wide to begin with.
Because this garment is quite large, the measurements in this tutorial will be given. If you need to alter them to fit your body type please do. Giving “standard” numbers makes it easier for me to make the tutorial, and less measuring work for you!
Please do not Repost. Click for better quality.
Remember these tutorials are meant to give you a starting point in creating your own hanfu. They might not be perfect, so please bear in mind.