My time here in Changsha has ended, I'm all packed up and about to head home. This is my reflection on my time here in China. For now, consider this my last post. For those that have been regular readers, I hope I haven't bored you too much. I may set up a new blog in the near future to allow myself to continue musing aloud to the world, but for now, here's what I have to say about China. Thank you and goodnight.
"Why?" was generally the first thing people asked. Colleagues, friends, family, it didn't matter who they were, they all wanted to know why I had signed to teach for a semester in China. "Why not?" was generally my reply. Nobody I knew had been before, I knew very little about the world's most populated country, the country of the future, the world's next superpower. But I was determined to find out. I've always been that way, consistently looking to break with expectations. Following the completion of my degree I wanted an adventure, to get out and away from the 'normality' of life back home. Heading to a country with such a rich history, diverse culture and unique lifestyle was more than an intriguing prospect, it was a not-to-be-missed opportunity.
Armed with what I considered to be an open mind; I was not to be disappointed upon my arrival. I chose to come with no expectations; the one thing I had learned about China beforehand was that it was an enigma, capable of surprising at every turn. It has certainly lived up to its tag as 'a land of contrasts and contradictions'. Given its size and variety, I shouldn't be surprised to find China is a complicated place; but I do. I find China paradoxical, but herein lies its charm. China mixes the traditional with the modern in a unique way that gives it a distinct appeal, but one that is nonetheless confusing for a foreigner at times. Punctuality and organisation is important, yet plans can change at a moment's notice; often a moment before they happen. Unusually for a society founded upon equality, competition is fiercely intense, in business, school and the workplace, and despite being largely meritocratic, with tests and examinations at every level, connections remain vitally important for progression.
China is simultaneously disgusted by, and in awe of western society; and Chinese culture reflects this - a full-speed, head-on collision of western and eastern influences. This is something that runs right through society, from the leaders of the Communist Party to the ordinary individual. Politicians and netizens may deplore western excess and behaviour; yet they continue to copy western methods of business, fashion, cuisine and society. Despite the dominance of state-owned enterprises, China is communist only by name. The levels of competition within society are enough to make any ardent capitalist's eyes water. In schools, students compete for attention in classes of 50+, their performance is meticulously and repeatedly examined and the only those who come out on top get rewarded - often with extra educational opportunities, beginning with school clubs (I ran a debate team for the best English speakers. We had auditions) whilst at primary school and finishing with the chance to attend university.
The result of all this, is a certain level of duality. The big east coast cities have undergone significant westernisation, with extensive franchise systems of the most notable American chains such as Starbucks, McDonalds and KFC. Levels of English are high, attitudes veer towards western corporate capitalism and self-service; yet as you work your way inland to the more rural and sparsely-populated areas, this all changes. The sprawling concrete jungles of Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou are replaced with the glorious natural scenery of Fenghuang, Zhangjiajie and Yangshuo. Whilst the cities aren't without their beauty, some of the architecture is truly stunning, be it the modern Shanghai skyline or the imposing extravagance that is the Forbidden City. Unfortunately, for every man-made splendour there are countless cranes, scaffolds and half-completed buildings. Modern China is a giant construction site, the accelerated economic development of the last 30 years has seen urban housing struggle to keep up, despite the vast manpower at its disposal. It is a relief, therefore, to enter the serene surroundings of the sleepy countryside, seemingly unaltered by events outside its own confines and life ambles on much as it has done for the past 500 years, albeit with a few more coffee shops and running water (for the most part).
I came to China not just to explore, but to teach. I've sometimes struggled to comprehend what was my motivation behind this particular decision, particularly when I was 4 months in and physically drainedat the end of another exhausting week. And yet, they my students have made the experience. All 1500 of them. They have exasperated and infuriated, but above all they have inspired. Their unabashed enthusiasm and hard work is intoxicating. Walking through school to a chorus of "Hello!" and "Dave!" never fails to put a smile on my face, and the effort they put into their school work is astonishing for ones so young. I can only hope that I have had as much an impact on them as they have on me, for my stay here has been truly unforgettable. I may have found lesson planning wearisome, been driven to my wit's end by meddlesome assistants and poorly-behaved classes, but I can't say I haven't loved it.
And so I head home, with a tired head but a full heart. China, it's been wonderful, but I am most definitely ready for home, and a proper ham and cheese sandwich.
