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@onigiritees-blog
We made a "3D" fused letter earlier for a graphic showcasing 3D printing. However, it's also pretty cool separate. So we're offering these custom order 3D printed monograms in our store.
Made with an SLA 3D printer in semi-transparant material.
Original image from our Instagram page
_Chewy
Lead designer & owner of onigiri.nl
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Super efficient coaster design
Laser cut and engraved in Eindhoven, the Netherlands
Roxane van Beek lasercut this awesome artwork from cotton textile sheet herefor her Graduation Project.
_Chewy
Lead designer & owner of onigiri.nl
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Form1 Review
Last friday we got the Form1. We ordered it over a year ago and it was supposed to arrive in July 13. Obviously they missed the mark by quite a bit, but it's a fresh startup risen from a kickstarter project, so I guess I can't be too mad at them. Either way it's here and we were eager to test it out!
Unboxing
Despite being a start-up, they've got the design down pat. The unboxing and setting up is very easy. They've made two peacies of folded cardboard with a plastic film in between to kinda of suspend the Form1 and protect it from bumps. Simple and effective.
Set-up
Setting up is almost plug & play. They've put tape and film around parts to protect it, but at some parts it's all around. For example, I needed to unwrap the tape halfway, then put the form1 on its back and continue unwrapping. A minor quip, it's really quite easy. Basically plugging in and filling the resin tank. The only other criticism I had is the rather simple instructions manual. I think they went a step too far in simplifying.
Printing
Time to fire this baby up. Again I have to commend them for the design on this thing. The machine looks awesome and it's really easy to operate. Just one button for starting the form1 up and then you press it again for confirming the print.
We loaded up a keychain of our logo for the first print. The software looks slick. It didn't take long to find the functions. It's easy to operate, but I wonder if it provides enough fine-tuning the settings in the long run. For example, I think the support base structure is maybe a bit too wasteful. And with such expensive resin, you want to be economical.
Of course we set it on the finest setting to see what this baby is capable of. It goes down to a staggeringly fine 0.0025mm! Our FDM printer's finest setting is 0.15mm. This fine setting also meant it took more than 2 hours to print this tiny keychain.
Post Print
Now comes the biggest downside to this machine: the Post-processing. What you need to do is take remove the printbed from the machine. Then place it on the tray. Remove the model from the printbed either with the included scraper (watch out, I almost sent it flying) and then wash it in Isopropyl Alcohol for 10 minutes to remove excess liquid resin. Now in my excitement I assumed there would be some Isopropyl alcohol included to print at least a first print, but there wasn't. That was a big let-down and a good warning to anyone getting this printer. Get the alcohol beforehand!
Now I didn't have any Isopropyl Alcohol and there wasn't any in the drugstores in the neighborhood so I looked around online and saw that somebody used acetone instead and reduced the time in the bath. So I tried that out and it worked like a charm. I put the model a bit of acetone, shook it for a few seconds and let it sit for about 20 to 30 seconds before pulling it out.
In the beginning the print will seem a little bit sticky, but after it dries up it will look great. It feels solid too. The insides around built with supports like with our fdm, it's a solid block of material. From the material properties it seems it's very close to ABS mechanically. So it should be very useable plastic.
The front looks absolutely amazing, it's so much finer than the FDM printer. The back has a some marks from the generated supports though. That probably needs some fine sanding to get smooth.
Conclusion
Well there we have it, the Form1. It's a beautiful machine and very well put together. The resolution is unmatched for this price-range. The down sides are that it's very slow, the resin is very expensive and you need to post process your prints.
_Chewy
Lead designer & owner of onigiri.nl
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How to disguise your IKEA cupboard with 3D printing.
So we needed a cupboard in behind the counter. The expedit was an easy & cheap choice, but it's also very, very meh. The mass produced furniture doesn't really fit in the store we designed and build ourselves. So we set out to add a little bit to disguise the "IKEA-ness" of it by making custom handles for all the doors with our own 3D printer. Because it's going to stay around for a while we took the extra mile and finished it up properly with filler and paint.
Click the pictures for more in-depth look at the process.
_Chewy
Lead designer & owner of onigiri.nl
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Cool little animation going over 40 years of mobile phone design. It's skipping a few important phones if you ask me, but still it's pretty nice.
_Chewy
Lead designer & owner of onigiri.nl
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Cute little Kitty Bank. Feed 'm well ^-^
Available here
_Chewy
Lead designer & owner of onigiri.nl
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How to fix BIC pen tips.
I almost never completely use up the ink of a BIC pen, because the tip always breaks before it's out. Writing with it becomes a floppy mess from all except one angle. So I share my (so easy you can't really call it a) hack: Press click the tip into the writing position and add a big drop of a hard curing glue like epoxy. Sure, you won't be able to get it back into the pen, but at least it will write more comfortably.
_Chewy
Lead designer & owner of onigiri.nl
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How to use a Refurbished Impossible Polaroid camera.
_Chewy
Lead designer & owner of onigiri.nl
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This totally hits the right buttons for me (pun intended :P ). That's why when designing the fitting room I used a giant red button for blinding the glass (we'll post an instagram video soon).
_Chewy
Lead designer & owner of onigiri.nl
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Cool video by Boggie displaying real time photoshopping while the subject is actually singing.
Well it's movie magic of course, but perhaps a glimpse into the (scary?) future.
_Chewy
Lead designer & owner of onigiri.nl
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Pfff Finally back online. Last week I was updating the payment system for the webshop. Everything needs to be IBAN compatible so it was necessary. I needed to upload a few files by FTP program. Now usually if you copy files to a folder, be it mac or windows, if you choose replace it will just replace the files that are duplicates right? Well not in this case. The FTP program I used would delete the whole folder and all folders above it and then replace the folder with the pasted one.
Who'd design something like that. If I wanted to do it that way, why wouldn't I just delete it and paste it? Ugh.
Long story short, needed to hunt down backups and work from there. a whole lot of work, but it's in working order again. I'll backup more often from now on...
_Chewy
Lead designer & owner of onigiri.nl
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Last weekend we did a street art for the It's fashion event. We drew a giant magazine cover where YOU could pose and be the cover model. This is the timelapse video of the making of. Many thanks to Mei-ing Nieuwland, go check out her site she's got awesome art: www.mingming.nl
_Chewy
Lead designer & owner of onigiri.nl
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I repaired my bike with 3D printing part 2
In a previous post I had printed and installed a replacement part for the broken one on my bike. Here's a follow up post with more insights and a redesigned part.
Since then The struts on the front fender has broken too. One thing that is clear is that there's a design flaw if all of them fail in roughly the same period. While fixing I noticed that the sheet metal didn't actually fail mechanically. It took my quite a bit of time to saw through the remaining strut, so it's strong. What made it fail was that the paint is hard, but not flexible. While cycling on a bumpy road, the fender can shake and displace a cm or 2. There is an area where it goes from profile to flat and that makes it sort of a hinge. So the paint starts peeling right there and water makes it rust at the weakest portion. Solutions could be a more flexible paint (or undercoating), Stainless steel (brings other challenges) or at very least make smooth transition instead of a flat double bend.
Anyway, the first version worked fine, but there were a few small problems with it. First of all the bolts stuck out too much. Normally it runs freely, but on a bumpy road it shakes back and forth and the bolts can run against the tyre. It hasn't become a problem yet, but just in case I've filed the bolts down as much as I can to prevent problems in the future.
For version 2.0 I just removed the bolts entirely. Now the struts slide into the sockets and since it is bolted down the frame, it won't be able move length-wise so it won't pop out either. Furthermore, the plastic may still touch the tires when shaking violently, but it's not as damaging (or probably at all) as a bolt. Also the crescent part now has a little indentation for the nut on the inside where it fits snugly in. That way I can use the original bolt and have more clearance from the tyre on the back.
_Chewy
Lead designer & owner of onigiri.nl
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Just added this new product to our store the Road Kill Twitch the Raccoon Pluche. It's absolutely gruesome to see a cute animal in that state, but also weirdly interesting to look at. Of course that's because of that contrast between having something extremely cute and innocent like plush be married with something as horrific as a car accident.
What really sells it for are all the small details. The stuffing and material for the organs or more flexible so you get that squishy effect. The tire tracks are printed on with a very thick material to resemble the mud it would leave behind. You can even stuff the organs back in and zip it up to resemble a more normal pluche. The packaging is really nice too, it's a "body bag" :P including Death certificate and morgue card.
I have no idea if it well do well in the store, but I already find it attracts the eye quite a bit. Either way I think it's funny enough to add to our collection.
Available here
_Chewy
Lead designer & owner of onigiri.nl
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A little Sunday DIY project reparing my bike with the 3D printer.
The part connecting the struts on my rear fender rusted through and broke off. Apparently you can't order this replacement part. In fact I can't even order the fender assembly from Vanmoof's webshop).
Well I needed some practice to work off the rust on my 3D modelling skills anyway, so why not have a little Sunday DIY project.
I made a top view picture and modelled the little crescent part in Rhino3D. I made sure the dimensions were a little bigger and quite a bit thicker to compensate for the difference in strength from the steel part (but not too thick, I don't want it to scrape the tyres). The modelling process was quite straightforward, the only possibly problematic part was eyeballing the angle at which the struts would have to connect.
Installing it was easy too. I just needed to drill holes into the struts and mount it with a few bolts.
All in all quite an simple and easy project, but it's still cool to be able to say "I repaired my bike with 3D printing" :P
Part 2 here
_Chewy
Lead designer & owner of onigiri.nl
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Been playing with our 3D printer. I'm ALWAYS annoyed at those atrocious 3D glasses at the movie theatre. If you already wear glasses than they never fit comfortably. They always shift up or down and because they are so far away from your eyes it constricts the view too.
So I've wanted to make my own clip on 3D glasses for a while now. I made this one to easily clip in place on my glasses and have the same shape so it doesn't look like some torture contraption on for my glasses.
The resulting product works great, the simple clip works as I intended (I originally thought of doing some clamp, or supports on the sides, but keeping it simple is better). It needs to be a bit bigger for V2.0 though, so the viewing angle is better.
Whaddya think? Maybe we can make custom 3D glasses for customers. :)
_Chewy
Lead designer & owner of onigiri.nl
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ps. I modelled it in Rhino