The perfect Brompton for touring? Configuring your travel foldie.
When we meet other Brompton riders on the road (which is not that often), we often notice their eyes scanning our bikes from end to end. We experience a lot of interest regarding the configuration and modification of our Bromptons, and the accessories we are using.
So, this is a quick summary of our experiences after being on the road and travelling the world for more than 5 months. It might be interessting for you if you are thinking about buying a Brompton bicycle with touring in mind, or if you already own a Brompton and want to set it up for the best possible touring experience.
But before we get startet, some math! Basically, there is only one Brompton bike. One main frame, in one frame size. Sounds pretty easy.
However, you can choose between 2 types of frame materials, 4 types of handlebars, 4 gearing options and 3 options regarding fenders and rack. This already makes for 96 (2*4*4*3) variants.
Taking into account another 3 options for lighting and 3 seat pillar types we already have 864 (96*3*3) variants!
If colors are your thing, you can choose between 15 of them for main frame and extremities, what makes for a whopping number of more than 181.000 variants! And this is not even considering choices for tyres, saddle, suspension and other customization ...
The point is: There are a lot of bikes to choose from. So let's get startet!
PART 1 - BROMPTON CONFIGURATION
You will find a lot of information on Brompton configuration on the internet. Take a look at the official Brompton brochure, visit the guys of NYCEWheels and click through their text- or video-based Brompton configuration tool or just google your way.
For here, I will focus on building a Brompton with long distance touring in mind. We assume that you already are familiar with the Brompton bike.
Frame material: Standard or Titanium Version
The standard steel version will be perfectly fine for touring. You will probably be carrying a lot of luggage, so the 740 grams the Titanium version saves you won't make a noticeable difference. Better save the heavy surcharge and invest the money in some other useful gear.
Handlebar type: S-Type, M-Type, H-Type or P-Type
This one is probably the biggest decision. There are 4 types of handlebars that will define your riding position. It is possible to change the handlebar setup afterwards, but it will be pretty expensive as many parts will have to be replaced. So you should carefully consider your selection. As choice depends on your body, and "every body" is different, I can not give general advice on which handlebar is "the best". We highly recommend to find a dealer that stocks all of the handlebar types, and do some extended test rides on the different models. Most ideally, your dealer is experienced in bike fitting, and can give you good advice. Some remarks on the different types regarding long distance touring:
The sporty, most "racing like" riding position. "Officially" only the small Brompton S-Bag can be used with this handlebar type. However, it is possible to use it with the larger C-Bag and T-Bag. You won't be able to load the T-Bag completely, and the cables will be rubbing against the grip of the bag. So, do it at your own risk! Advantage: The S-type handlebar can take regular sized 3rd party grips, so you'll have a greater choice of ergonomical grips for touring. Karen (1,68m) is riding an S-Type (with a C-Bag).
The original, classic handlebar type for a more upright riding position. Will work perfectly with any Brompton front bag. Because the handlebar ends are a bit shorter, not all 3rd party grips will fit on this. You will have to shorten them, or look for special shorter grips. Daniel (1,87m) is riding an M-Type.
This allows for an even more upright riding position. As this is the longest handlebar, you will feel some "flexing". We've only seen very tall riders using this handlebar for touring. Regarding the grips, it's the same as the M-Type.
The P-Type handlebar is obviously made for touring, and allows for different riding positions. However, we didn't see it very often on touring Bromptons. And, you won't be able to fit ergonic grips to this handlebar. Seems that people love it or hate it. Try it!
Seatpost: Standard, extended or telescopic?
This one is easy: Get the size you need. There are 3 versions: The standard version, a longer version and an even longer telescopic seat post. If your inseam lenght would allow for eather the extended or the telescopic seatpost, there are a few advantages of the telescopic one: It can be retracted to give you a fold almost as compact as with the standard seatpost. Saddle and seatpost can be easily removed to save the saddle from thieves or from heavy rain. And, the two quick releases of the telescopic seatpost make it easy to regain the perfect saddle height after every (un)fold: Just leave the smaller, telescopic element in place.
Tipp: If the standard or extended seatpost are just a tiny bit too short for your legs, you can rotate the pentaclip (the tiny thing holding the saddle) upside down. This will give you a 1-2cm longer seatpost. Also, different saddles have different heights, so take this into consideration too.
Gearing: 1-2-3 or 6 speeds?
Get the 6 gear option! All the other versions don't really make sense for touring. Even in flat terrain, on a touring-loaded bike, you will be happier with more gears. Also, we highly recommend the smaller chainring option (-12%). In fact, I think this should be the standard gearing option, even for city use. I hardly found myself using the highest gear when riding the standard (0%) 6 gear configuration, but with the -12% option, all the gears are perfectly usable.
Get fenders, and get the rear rack. For multi-day touring, both are pretty much a must-have feature. The fenders don't add much weight, and won't affect the fold, so there's no reason not to get them. The rear rack adds weight, but is a must have if you want to carry more luggage than just a front bag and a small saddle bag.
This depends on your preference. Karen is using battery powered LED lights, while I am using a dynamo powered setup (with the standard lights). I prefer hub dynamos: You never run out of batteries, and it's just more environmental friendly. One great thing about hub dynamos is that you can also use the generated electricity to charge your USB gadgets, great for longer tours with rare access to power outlets. Look for solutions like the "USB Werk", "The Plug" or "Zzing" (and there are many more).
PART 2 - OTHER PARTS, MODIFICATION AND ACCESSORIES
All the tyre options (Brompton Kevlar, Schwalbe Kojak, Schwalbe Marathon, Schwalbe Marathon Plus) will roll, but the Schwalbe Kojak isn't really suitable for touring, due to it's slick profile and low puncture protection. We are using Marathon and Marathon Plus tyres, and only had 3 punctures so far (1 nail and 2 really big sharp metal pieces that destroyed the tyres). Keep in mind that 16 inch tyres will wear off much (!) more quickly than 28 inch tyres.
Choosing the perfect saddle is it's own topic, and I won't cover it here. I like the standard Brompton saddle. Its lightweight and feels comfortable. It has a grip for carrying the folded bike (although I use to carry the folded bike on the frame). Like most of all the other touring cyclists we meet, we are using Brooks saddles. Karen went with the Cambium and really likes it. I got the B17 and find it quite ok.
Tipp: If you are a taller rider, and want to move your saddle more towards the back than the pentaclip would allow, you can rotate the pentaclip by 180 degrees. That will give you a saddle position more towards the back of the bike.
The standard Brompton grips are rather "simple" solutions. They are light and functional, but don't offer some ergonomic shape. Plus, except for the P-Type version, the Brompton only provides one handle position. For commuting, thats just fine. On longer tours however, different handle positions are a big help at reducing problems in wrists and other parts of the body.
On a Brompton this can (only) be achieved by the use of bar ends or ergonomic grips with integrated bar ends. Examples are the Ergon grips GP2 or GP3. Both grips won't affect the fold, however with the GP3 on an M-Type handlebar, the bar ends will touch the ground when folded. Also note that the standard version of these grips will only fit to the S-Type handlebar. For M- and H-Type handlebars, they will have to be shortened to fit. A sharp knive will be everything you need. There is also a gripshift version with shorter grips that should fit to M- and H-Type handlebars, but I didn't have my hands on this version yet.
Apart from special grips, you can also try to use small standard bar ends and a comfortable handlebar tape wrapped around both handlebar and bar ends (remove the standard Brompton grips before).
The Eazy Wheels are not a must-have. We both are using them and find them quite useful, especially in places like train stations. But touring will work without them.
Monkii Cage and Monkii Clip
On the Brompton, the usual places for carrying drinking water (accessible during riding) are the backpockets of the Brompton Bags. No official bottle cage is available, and standard bottle cages can't be fittet to the Brompton (no braze-ons for bottle cage mounts). A great way to carry more (accessible) water is the Monkii Cage. Using the Monkii Clip, the Monkii Cage can be attached to the Brompton handlebar and voila, another bottle of water right between your hands. Note that the fold is not affected. We got our Monkii Cages from our friends at TinyWheels, and found them really useful. Warning: Keep an eye on the gearing/brake cables. Mine got damaged because they were rubbing against the Monkii Clip. I will have to do some modification after the trip ...
If you want to pimp your Brompton, you can do so! There are many 3rd party components available for modifying the Brompton, examples are seatposts, hinge clamps, chain tensioners or easy wheels. The claimed advantages of these components are eather being lighter, or being better, or just looking better. "Brompfication" is the name of the (probably) biggest manufacturer, and we saw Brompfication parts very often in Asia: In the stores and on the bikes.
As we didn't use any of these parts I can't say anything about them other than: They exist, you can get them and try them if you want.
When climbing the very steep mountains in Japan in 1st gear, I often wished for even lower gears. That's possible!
The first way would be to mount a second, smaller front chainring. A friend of ours in Los Angeles did this, and used a small metal hook to manually shift to the smaller chainring before long hills.
The second way might be the Schlumpf mountain drive. It's an internal gearing, built into the bottom bracket. We didn't see it in action, but people did it, and you will find information on the internet.
Bottom Line: Happy pedaling!
Every tour is different, and everybody is different. Don't take all these option too seriosely. Every Brompton will roll, and it's about enjoying the time. We met a guy doing >150km every day in hilly terrain on a fixed gear bike. He seemed to have fun. Grab a bike, and start pedaling.
