Maison Martin Margiela autumn—winter 1998—99. Three simultaneous video-projections show three women, each wearing garments of the collection.
Le Foyer de L’Arches, La Grande Arche de la Defence, Paris. A subterranean Space under the Arch de la Defence. Three people are chosen to each represent their professional discipline in presenting their vision on the collection: New York based photographer Mark Borthwick, London based stylist Jane How and Paris based writer Sydney Picasso. Mark Borthwick’s project included the projection of a video in two parts shot in New York in early March 1998 and a book entitled ‘2000-1’. The video features a verbal interaction between three women wearing garments of the collection. The book features photographs taken during the shooting of the video and is published in the autumn of 1998. For Jane How’s project fifteen life-size puppets are each dressed in an outfit of the collection styled by Jane. Two professional puppeteers manipulate each puppet, specially made in UK. Sydney Picasso decided to produce a white cotton ribbon, on which a continuous text is printed, as well as a pamphlet entitled ‘Endless Threads’. The tract is distributed and the ribbon is tied to everyone’s wrist as they enter the space. Thirty members of the Maison Martin Margiela staff, in blouses blanches (white coats) serve red wine to the crowed while the three visions on the collection are being expressed. A soundtrack by Mark Borthwick plays loudly.
Collection:
The second part of a collection is in two parts. The principal group of the collection is made up of five series of `flat’ garments with displaced shoulders or necklines. Their sleeves or their neck opening lies on their front. The panels of industrial garment patterns in black motorbike leather and sheepskin are assembled to form coats and jackets. Flat ‘Grocery Bag’ garments in stretch flannels and woollen herring bone. A series of ‘Envelope’ garments have full-length zips that allow skirts, trousers and sweaters to be opened and laid flat. Various used military garments have been transformed into army trousers (worn inside out), army shirts with a displaced shoulder line. Amongst accessories are leather gloves transformed into pendant wallets and ‘Anti-Theft’ wallets in leather, worn as bags.
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