The bolts that hold the engine stabilizer on the car frame twisted off rather than coming out; this is an expected annoyance.
I reached for a EZ-out and broke it off in the first bolt. Bought a new, better one and broke that off in the second bolt, although I did need to use a two foot cheater to accomplish it, so I am willing to say the $11.99 wasn't spent on a poor quality tool.
Tried grinding them out with a 1/8" carbide burr, which works, after a fashion, but its chowdering up the threads.
Time for a different approach.
I cut open the frame on the donor to extract the 'captive nuts' and take a look at the interior structure.
It contains a clear failure path, and as a Proudly Paranoid Person I am willing to argue its a deliberate failure path.
The box beam that the support hangs off of has a interior, horizontal partition, and the 'captive nuts' -- which are just sections of threaded, heavy-wall tube-- are welded to the bottom of this interior web. This would be fine, except a hole is drilled through the web into the center of the tube.
The top surface of the box beam is convex: the beam, itself is welded up of three steel c-sections, stacked inside each other like cups. The top convexity is about a centimeter deep, and it had a lot of flung up mud and sand captured on it. Not so much water: that drained into conveniently placed holes and fell into the beam.
There are drain holes on the beam bottom as well. The designers didn't make it fill up like an impromptu aquarium, but they never considered the holes that drain into the 'captive nuts'.
The bolts that enter these nuts are long; perhaps 15mm protrudes through the threaded section of the nut and into the well of the tube itself.
Where it swells and rusts in the captive water pockets.
I have never seen a nut and bolt with a better design to guarantee that the bolt freezes solid. I don't believe anything short of actually filling the well with a ball of grease would protect it.
As it stands, I am going to try drilling the nuts out, cutting access holes in the beam top in order to insert fresh nuts on the top of the interior web, and see how that works.
I really don't want to have to weld the frame.
What engineer at Honda was responsible for this portion of the frame?
I suspect the evil holes are actually due to the welding fixture that holds the pieces for the welding machines, and these holes are aggravated by the assumption that 'water can't get in there, the hood is sheltering it'.
Buddy, I picked sand and asphalt out of the deep pocket below the corners of the windshield, and I would have bet money that spray couldn't get up there.
What can go wrong, goes wrong, and what can't possibly go wrong will also go wrong, but in a more insidious fashion. After all, the Titanic's hull partitions would have worked if the break hadn't extended through several sections, and the break wouldn't have extended through several sections if the steel wasn't weakened by the coal fire in the bunkers.
(The coal fire itself, well was that do to with the coal being loaded by hand laborers who were smoking like chimneys or was there yet another layer of failure ?)
...And I wouldn't be struggling with this if I just "Logan's Run"ed the car at 8 years like a good little consumerist.