Rebecca Higham @rebeccahigham-blog - Tumblr Blog

Bibliography

Aldrich, W. (1999) Metric Pattern Cutting for Children’s Wear and Babywear. Third Edition. UK: Blackwell Science Ltd.

Joseph-Armstrong, H. (2005) Patternmaking for Fashion Design. Fourth Edition. U.S.A: Prentice Hall.

Lenard, L. (2013) Making a Rouleau Strap. 17 April. Lizzie Lenard Vintage Sewing [online] Available from: http://lizzielenard-vintagesewing.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/making-rouleau-strap.html [Accessed 19 June 2014].

Lenard, L. (2013) How to Make Rouleau Straps [online] Available from: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OFWxktmceZM [Accessed 19 June 2014].

Pullen, M. (2008) Victoria and Albert Museum of Childhood: Martha Pullen’s Favorite Places Series. Alabama: The Martha Pullen Company.

V&A Museum (2014) Girl’s Dress [online] Available from: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1123326/girls-dress-unknown/ [Accessed 15 May 2014]

V&A Museum of Childhood (2014) Bethnal Green, London.

#bibliography

Final Evaluation

Unfortunately, I was unable to complete the garment in the final fabrics because of health reasons. However, during the project I did draft an unusual pattern, create a toile, and apply the techniques I have learned.

I had the opportunity to go and see the original dress first hand.The chance to observe the techniques used and take photographs really helped me during pattern drafting and creating the toile. It was fantastic, although sometimes conflicting, to be able to combine the knowledge I gained from this experience with the research I compiled. I believe that having to decipher conflicting research has aided my development as an independent maker.

I had never before applied pleats and pin-tucks on this scale. I certainly had never considered how to allow for them on a paper pattern with numerous panels. When attempting to create a replica, for which the pleats and pin-tucks need to be proportionately accurate to the original, this was incredibly challenging. However, I do feel that moving forwards I will not be intimidated by pleated and pin-tucked garments, whatever the era; the skills that I have learned are transferrable.

If I had known that I would be handing in my toile I may have spent more time refining the stitch work, as well as correcting areas I knew needed adjusting, such as the side seam. However, the concept of a toile is that it is a practice garment, so that the maker can recognise errors. This being said, when making it in the final fabrics, I know to extend the pleated sleeve detail pieces, extend the front tabs and furthermore not to follow the ‘natural’ side seam as I did but rather taper it to make the dress’s waist more contoured.

I am disappointed not to make the button stand at the back of the dress. I decided not to follow the original dress design, but rather use a technique that my research suggested was both historically correct and ideal in its durability for a child’s garment. In managing my time, I believed it would not be beneficial to trial this during the toile stage. On reflection, I feel I would have learned a lot from it, and it would have made me confident to approach it on the final garment.

Having said this, overall I am really proud of what I have achieved. The fitted toile is a proportionately accurate replica of the original dress, teaching me new techniques, as well as what to amend for a final garment. My time management, although ultimately flawed by health issues in the final hour, was successful throughout the project. I was able to continuously update my work plan with the progression of the project.

This ability to work independently and manage my time will really help when approaching Level 6. I look forward to applying these skills to live projects. Working on an unusual design that I am passionate about really helped with my work attitude. Therefore, I need to thoughtfully apply to work on engaging historical projects which continue to challenge me. I would love to have the opportunity in Level 6 to further my ability to create children’s wear. This project has cemented my wish to pursue a career in this niche industry.

(546 words)

#evaluation

Weekly Reflection: Week Six

Due to health issues I have had to take a step back from the project. This is not a decision I took lightly. It was decided that given the amount of work I had already achieved, I would hand in my toile for assessment rather than continuing and trying to rush to finish the final garment. With the little time and energy I have had this week, I decided to learn a new technique for a sample of the 'chenille embroidery' which is featured on the original garment. It was this technique, as well as many others, which initially attracted me to 'Lucy's Party Dress' so I was really keen to have a go.

I discovered an old, historically correct, technique for creating strips of rouleau:

The above image is taken from a lovely little book from 1928 called How To Make Dresses The Modern Singer Way which I came across on Lizzie Lenard's Vintage Sewing Blog.

I found a YouTube video using the same method (on a Singer sewing machine) which I found easier to follow:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OFWxktmceZM

(I used a zipper foot to try and get the closest stitch possible to the piping cord that I was using.)

Below are my own step-by-step images:

Once I created the rouleau strip, I pinned it into place on a square of the top fabric. Doing this to replica proportions proved fiddly, and I found that the rouleau naturally wants to twist around. I believe this is because the fabric I was stitching had slipped slightly, and wasn't on the true bias. If I was to use this method again, I would be incredibly careful (perhaps using the calico method I discovered last week) to cut accurately.

Below is an image of the completed 'chenille embroidery'. I slip stitched underneath the rouleau, and I'm really pleased with the overall effect.

Despite having such a difficult week, it has been nice to be able to reflect on sampling a technique which I was so keen to master during the project.

#reflection #sample #experiment

Weekly Reflection: Week Five

The beginning of this week was very unsettled and I was unable to come into the studio to work on Independent Project as planned. I ensured however that I used the time to make headway with my other project which I was able to do from home to give myself more time moving forwards. Once again I'm pleased with the way I reviewed my work plan, to organise my time effectively. Once I did begin working in the studio, I really focused, and as I had previously hoped, was able to come up with new techniques to help control and manipulate the slippery silk crepe. Working in the studio alone at this time has been quite difficult for me- I feel it would have been incredibly beneficial and more time effective to have had others around me to bounce off ideas with. Having said this, I'm really pleased with the methods I discovered and the results I am having with them. Plus there is a great sense of achievement having worked completely independently and resolving issues without the help of others.

#reflection

Construction Development: Part Three

After cutting out all my pieces yesterday and pleating the cross panel, I started the day very positively. I have begun to find methods that help me work with the difficult crepe. For example, rather than just cutting the silk as usual on the table, I backed it with calico, and it cut much more cleanly and easily. Furthermore, ironing over calico also helps prevent the crepe slipping around, and the selvedge acts as a very useful 'straight line' to pin alongside, to create nice, straight pleats.

Unfortunately, creating pin-tucks is even more challenging than pleats, especially when working on light fabric which marks easily. I used the same calico ironing techniques, as well as tacking to act as a sewing guide (see below) and stitched each line of pin-tucks by eye.

#reflection #development

As was suggested by my tutor, after an unsettled few days, the best thing for me to do was to re-focus and re-manage my time accordingly. Here is a screenshot of my new work plan. I've worked incredibly hard to ensure that I am ahead of schedule for my POP unit which has meant that I have some extra, unexpected time this weekend to try and catch up on anything I have fallen behind on. I truly feel that being able to work on Independent Project over the weekend will be incredibly beneficial and it has settled my mind a lot.

#reflection #planning

Construction Development: Part Two

Luckily the fabric that I ordered from Classic Textiles was sent next-day delivery, so that after an unsettled few days, I was able to get right down to business. I cut out and pleated the cuffs, remembering to add extra fabric. Pleating fabric on a much smaller scale than the back panel is certainly easier, but I still felt that I could improve my pleating technique.

When I came to cut out all of the other pieces from the new fabric, I decided to try a new technique. I read online last night about trapping silk between layers of tissue paper to stop it slipping around. Not having any big sheets of tissue, I decided to improvise and backed the silk with calico. This meant I was cutting through three layers of fabric, but it was surprisingly successful in preventing slippage.

To keep up with my work plan, I worked late to complete the pleats of the cross panel. I decided to try using the cut calico to help prevent the silk from moving whilst ironing. I also discovered that I could use the straight edge of the selvedge as a guide for straight pleats. Pinning the silk to the calico further prevented it moving.

Although the pleats aren't perfectly straight, I'm really pleased with how they've come out. The fabric is extremely difficult to work with and looking at the results creates a real sense of accomplishment. I'm also really pleased with how symmetrical I have managed to keep the piece. This will be really important when I come to sew the panels all together.

#reflection #development

Weekly Reflection: Week Four

I am ecstatic with the progress I have made this week. I kept on target throughout the toile construction process, working quickly whilst maintaining a good standard. I'm really proud of the way I've developed as a maker. It seems obvious, but to let go of my perfectionism and recognising that at this stage I am simply making a toile- a practice- and that it doesn't have to be the neatest piece I've ever produced, is a big step forward for me. Having said this, the toile was hugely successful and I'm so happy with the result. Being pernickety, I have recognised that there are a couple of small areas to amend and improve when I come to create the real thing, but there's nothing too intimidating.

Not having enough fabric unfortunately prevented me from sticking to the work plan and cutting out all the pattern pieces in the top fabric, however, I adapted quickly and reviewed my time, coming up with a new, amended work plan which allowed me to make the most of my time and energy. I ordered more fabric, and went ahead to begin the construction of the back panel. Alas I was over ambitious when I allocated what to achieve during the day, and was unable to complete all the tasks (back panel and button stand) however now I understand how long it takes to work with the silk crepe and can adjust my work plan accordingly.

I am determined to catch up with any work I fell behind with right at the end of the week and I am also determined to develop methods to make working the silk a little easier!

#reflection

Construction Development: Part One

This morning I arrived early in the studio determined to catch up with the work I had fallen behind with last week. I finished pressing the back pleats in good time and I was really pleased with my progress. Furthermore, having placed the panel over the top of the toile to check the pleats and positioning (despite my concerns that they had shifted out of place with the slippery fabric) I am optimistic that I will be able to maintain the desired shape.

After the back panel, I decided to work on the sleeves. The stable cotton lawn of the lining was a joy to work with after my struggles with the slippery crepe. I then proceeded to cut out, mark and pleat the cuffs, remembering to add extra fabric and pleats.

What was incredibly disappointing and frustrating was being cut short in the day. Having to leave the studio unexpectedly, before finishing pleating the cuffs, meant I was unable to complete all the tasks on today’s work plan. After my productive morning this was particularly disheartening. Despite my best efforts and intentions I will unfortunately be heading into tomorrow even further behind than I was first thing this morning.

Having said this, I have reviewed my work plan once more, and I hope that by utilising early mornings and Late Night Study in the studio, I will maintain a healthy level of progress this week.

#reflection #development

Here is a screenshot of my work plan that I have updated once more. The most recent updates are in green.

#planning

Beginning the Final Garment

Today, once I finally managed to get hold of Aniza from Classic Textiles and order more double crepe, I begun the construction of the final dress. As planned previously, I worked on the back panel. When I went to cut out the fabric I discovered just how difficult the crepe will be to work with. It is incredibly slippery, and I am going to have to take great care that my lines don't 'slip' onto the bias. Marking the lines of the pleats proved to be just as tough. I found that if I worked on the ironing board, the cover provided more friction against the fabric and therefore it didn't move quite so much. (turning on the extractor fan also helped).

I was definitely over-ambitious when I planned what I had to do today and unfortunately I was unable to stick to my work plan. I couldn't have anticipated just how difficult the double crepe would be to cut and press into pleats. I found it incredibly frustrating because as much as I was aware that I needed to speed up in order to complete everything I had set out to do, I also knew that the pleats simply cannot be rushed- they are crucial to the overall fit and appearance. The fabric is going to be a real challenge in these last few weeks, and I realise that I am going to have to work extremely hard to ensure that it doesn't effect the my time-keeping or the finished article.

#reflection #development

After completing my toile, I sat down and reviewed my work plan. Although not having enough fabric prevents me initially from cutting out all of my pattern pieces, I have planned around this issue, completing tasks that are possible with what I do have and ensuring I am making the most of my time. The work load is possible, and I am confident in my ability to produce the dress in the allotted time, but the weeks are going by incredibly quickly. I really have to focus now and ensure that I stay on target. I am aiming to have completed the dress by Friday 20th, but I have given myself breathing room just in case this isn't achieved.

#planning

Evaluating the Toile

In order to evaluate the toile, I need to compare it to images of the original dress. Throughout the process, I have used the observational photographs I took at the Museum of Childhood to decide how to construct the piece. However, I feel that in order to evaluate a garment on the stand, I need to compare it to the original dress on a stand (see picture below). I'm really pleased with the overall finish of the toile- small changes need to be made to really polish the finish of the final garment, but I can see the potential.

The tacking holding the pleats in place make it difficult to make out the design lines, but I am confident that when I come to join the top layers with the lining I will be able to create a neat, finished neckline using the marked guides. Looking at it closely, I am also confident that it will replicate the shape of the original.

Although my tutor was pleased with the toile, I have since noticed some inconsistencies between it and the original. For example, I feel that on the stand, the sleeves sit differently. I could perhaps widen them slightly (which would also make them more comfortable and less restrictive for a playful child), and have slightly less gathering at the sleeve head. Although my research suggests it was fashionable at the time, and would be historically correct, I would rather replicate the original in this instance. Furthermore, the sleeves appear to 'stick out' from the main body of the dress. I believe that my interpretation could be more accurate if I shallowed the sleeve head a little, forcing the sleeves to move upwards.

Another inconstancy is the shaping at the waist. When sewing the side seam, I chose to follow what I thought was a more natural line, rather than the one I had drawn. This was a mistake. When I come to create the final garment, I must remember to follow the drawn line, tapering slightly for a smoother seam. This, as well as stitching the pin-tucks further down behind the tabs, tacking the pin-tucks down to the bottom and using a control panel, will hopefully create a more contoured garment. (It may also help the appearance of the sleeves and tabs).

I'm happy with the length of the dress and sleeves (hem line marked on toile) as well as the overall feel of the dress. I'm so pleased that I am capturing the essence of the garment that I felt so protective of in the study room of the Museum of Childhood.

The back panel has worked really well: the pleats are successful and I feel I have replicated the original accurately. The only real noticable difference (other than the sleeves) is the 'back gap' between the pleats. This is bigger because I added extra fabric to allow for the button stand (which I will create for the real thing, but not for the toile to save time) and will be the correct width after the stand is put in.

Looking at the image from Pinterest, one might also think that the rounded neckline should dip towards the centre back. However, having seen the garment first hand, I believe this is because of how the garment has been positioned on the stand for the photograph, rather than being an accurate representation.

#evaluation #reflection

Creating the Toile: Day Three

Having pinned the cross panel into place, ready for sewing, I realised that despite my best efforts previously, the front tabs were still too short and didn’t reach the same point as the original. I would have to work initiatively on the stand to correct this error.

In order to extend the front tabs of the toile, I simply cut new longer pieces of calico (using the ones on the stand as my template for the width and point). Rather than working forwards from the side seam, I pinned the point in the correct final position, and then pinned the new tabs over the top of the originals. Once I was happy with the placement, I stitched the extended tabs into place by stitching the edges of these, and the originals, together. I also tacked the edge of the point onto the cross panel. This perhaps isn't the neatest solution, but it was the quickest and most accurate alternative and it ensured I maintained good time and stuck to my work plan.

Next, I folded over and stitched the seam allowance of the cross-panel. Although on normal toiles, edges are left unfinished, I felt that I needed this step to truly envisage the final look of the garment. I then pinned and sewed the cross panel to the side panel following the marked pin-tuck line nearest to the centre.

Unlike the front tabs which I stitched completely separately from the side panel, and only joined to the cross panel, I tacked the back tabs into place, attaching them to the back panel. In doing this, I discovered that I am able to control and hold the pleats more (although I have to be careful that the tabs do not pull them out of place).

I was really pleased with the outcome of my sleeves. My pattern amendments to add gathered fullness to the sleeve head worked really well. Although a seemingly minor adjustment, this gives me more confidence to explore more challenging sleeve designs in the future. The pleated cuffs were also successful. The only thing that I could do to improve them when making the sleeves in the final fabric is adding more pleats to the cuff pattern piece, ensuring I won't have to add extra pieces of fabric (as was required here). On a final note, I decided to leave the cuff seam allowance in place so that my tutor and I can discuss ideal length during my toile evaluation.

Creating the Toile: Day Two

The first things I tackled during the second day of creating the toile were the pin-tucks on the side panels. I decided to use the marked side of the fabric as my 'right side' for the toile, simply to make life easier for myself and to save time. Obviously, for the real thing I will not be able to mark the right side of the fabric. I understand that this will make the process more difficult, however I feel I will be able to use the guides on the domestic machines to sew the pin-tucks by eye. It has been really nice to see the panels transforming from obscure, lined pieces to the shaped pieces that will form part of the dress.

Determined to stick to my work plan, I ensured that I managed to squeeze in sewing the seam of the one-piece sleeves before lunch.

Although it is only a toile, I felt it necessary to top stitch over the folded seam allowances along the edges of the tabs and false side panels before sewing them into place. I did this because I wanted to be able to see the design line more clearly- with so many panels to consider, flapping seam allowances would be incredibly distracting. Before sewing the side seams, I stitched the tabs and false side panels into place on back/side panels in the seam allowance, ensuring they were correctly placed.

Next, I sewed along the side seam, joining the back and side panels. Because of how I have extended the back side seam with the false side panel, I discovered that there was a more natural line along the waist to follow than the one I had originally drawn.

Once the side seams were sewn, the dress was finally coming together. All that was left to do during this second day was to sew the shoulder seams together. I'm really pleased with these given how quickly I had to do this before the studio shut. Overall I had another really productive day. Finishing the toile tomorrow seems really achievable.

#reflection #development #toile

Creating the Toile: Day One

Before I attempt to construct the dress in my final fabrics, I need to create a toile: a mock-up model of the garment. I have decided to use preshrunk calico to do this as it is lighter and easier to drape than traditional calico, with the same qualities as the double crepe. This will hopefully give me a closer likeness that I will then be able to learn from and evaluate before committing myself to the real thing.

The first thing I did was cut out and mark all the toile pieces. It was at this stage that I was able to correct previous errors such as the cross panel's pleat lines not being parallel to the tilted centre front.

Whilst cutting out my fabric, I became confused about the centre back. I was finding it particularly difficult to envisage how the fabric was cut on the fold, making the back panel whole, but at the same time incorporating the extended centre back that I had previously added to allow for the placket. After discussing the issue extensively with my tutor and scrutinising my reference material, we decided that the best way to move forward would be to cut the piece on the fold, along the extended CB, which I will later cut into and add a button stand to. Although this is not the method the original sewer used, this is an example of a time where I need to make the decision to step back and use alternative historically correct techniques that are more appropriate and more professional in order to create a quality replica.

With this dress, it is not just a case of cutting the pattern pieces and then sewing them together to create a toile. Before I could begin the next stage, I needed to press all the pleats into the respective pieces (ie. the back and cross panels & sleeve detail). This took a great deal of time, and I have come to realise that I will have to allow for this when I come to create the real thing. After pleating the sleeve detail, I am concerned that although I thought I had accurately measured how many pleats I would need, I will need more in order for them to go around the whole arm. If this is the case, it's possible for me to just sew an extra strip of calico onto the end which can then be pleated.

Also during this first day, I worked out how big the tabs would have to be by working directly on the stand. I realised that the side of the tabs where the side seam is sewn was correct, as was the false side panel extension, but I would have to add several cm's to the point shape in order for them to reach the correct spot. I would like to be as accurate as possible in order to create the best replica possible- this design feature is a real focal point of the dress and if it is slightly out, then it will be really noticeable.

I am really pleased with the amount of work that I achieved during this first day of creating the toile. It feels really fulfilling to know that I am on target and to see substantial day-to-day progress. I believe that working next to the studio's irons and not having to queue to use them really aided the pace of progress that I was able to make. But to a greater extent, I think that my mind set around this project is really helping to drive me forward. I'm really enjoying seeing the dress come together, and I am excited to go into the studio each day. Sometimes at university I think it's very easy to get bogged down with impending deadlines and grades, but I've managed to take a step back during this unit and take pleasure in the learning process. This is certainly a mind set that I hope to continue with, both during and after this project.

#reflection #development #tutorial #toile

Before the week begun, I wanted to thoroughly plan the first few days to ensure my toile was completed as quickly as possible. Here is a screenshot of my work plan, with the most recent updates in purple. I decided to rearrange my usual day for doing the POP unit because of a doctors appointment which would heavily interrupt a day in the studio. This way, I will be able to make the most of my time. Furthermore, I will be able to focus on each project for longer, allowing me to concentrate on and engage fully with each individually. Hopefully this will be a real advantage. Once I have completed my toile, I will (fingers crossed) be able to review and update my work plan yet again, ready to move forward with the construction of the final garment.

#planning #reflection

Trending Blogs

Recently Viewed Blogs

Rebecca Higham