Fashion designer, manager, photographer, performer, actress and singer Anya Phillips was born in Taiwan in 1955; she was the older sister of Fei Xiang, one of the greatest pop stars in 1980s China. While attending high school in Taipei American School, Phillips befriended Sylvia Morales, and in the early 1970s the two of them moved together to the United States, as Phillips had aspirations of becoming a fashion designer in New York City. Phillips earned a full scholarship to fashion school, but dropped out after only three days of classes and began working on her own. Her unique style and exquisite creations soon caught the eyes of people in the underground New York scene, particularly the punk/post-punk/new wave circle.
Phillips went on to befriend numerous bands and artists such as Debbie Harry, Iggy Pop, Stiv Bators, the Ramones and the Talking Heads. She introduced her best friend Morales to Lou Reed, whom Phillips had a romantic interest in. Morales and Reed hit it off right away, and soon started dating; they were married in 1980, and the friendship between the girls was never the same, as Phillips felt resented and betrayed. A sensitive character, she had reportedly attempted suicide after the breakup of another failed relatioship.
In her early days, Phillips had a performance act as a dominatrix. She also contributed with her photography work for underground magazines, appeared in cult films and sang backing vocals. She co-founded, along with friends and scenesters Steve Mass and Diego Cortez, the legendary Mudd Club in 1978. In the late 1970s, Phillips ventured into band managing. She became the manager of her boyfriend James Chance’s band, James Chance and the Contortions, also designing their outfits and building their public image. On the cover of Blondie’s “Plastic Letters” (1977), Harry is wearing a dress made by Phillips; the dress worn by the model on the cover of the Contortions’ “Buy” (1979) is another Phillips design.
Phillips was planning on recording an album with Chance when she learned that she had cancer. She passed away from the illness in 1981, after a two-year battle; she was twenty-six years old. Her work continued to be celebrated and referenced throughout the years, with Harry wearing one of her designs on the cover of “Rush Rush” (1983) and Anna Sui citing Phillips as a major influence. Chance’s 1982 album “Sax Maniac” was dedicated to Phillips’ memory. She is also mentioned in numerous books such as “Chris Stein/Negative: Me, Blondie, and the Advent of Punk” by Chris Stein, “Life and Death on the New York Dance Floor” by Tim Lawrence, and “Please Kill Me: The Uncensored Oral History of Punk” by Legs McNeil and Gillian McCain.
“She was a beautiful and intriguing personality, challenging, extremely talented. She knew where to be at every moment. I’ve never met another person like her.” -Sylvia Morales-Reed
“She was always up to something, designing clothes, drawing sketches. I really think if she was still alive, she would have become a designer. Many other people have been using her ideas.” -James Chance
“The period 1975-1980 was a time in which people insisted on being allowed to do what they weren’t supposed to do. Anya symbolized that period. She was a powerful energy source that’s now missing from the scene, an example of how intense willpower is charisma.” -Debbie Harry
“We had performance art, but these people took that to the next level—‘I’m a 24/7 performance art piece.’ These people had such strong personalities—rambunctious, crazy, beautiful. Anya was super beautiful.” -Diego Cortez
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