If you are planning to visit South America don’t shop around and start your exploration from the Capital of Argentina, Buenos Aires. It might be a long flight but it is well worth it. Buenos Aires is known for its European influences and multicultural atmosphere and is the second most popular tourist destination in South America after Mexico City.
When to visit: The seasons in Argentina are the opposite from North America and Europe. Depending on your preferred temperature, I would suggest going from the end of September to November or March to April. Summer months, December through February, can be hot and humid and despite the fact that Buenos Aires is surrounded by water, the closest beaches are three hours away or you will have to take a ferry to Uruguay, which I will talk about later.
Prices: Buenos Aires is very affordable with well developed infrastructure, although I did not have a chance to take a subway, because taxis are very affordable. Just look for a black and yellow car with a lighted sign saying “libre”. The trip from the airport is a fixed price of 550 pesos, which is an equivalent of $30-35. The cost of the ride in town will not exceed $10 for a really long distance. Uber is limited and usually available only in the evenings and weekends but will cost you even less.
Language: most of the people do not speak English. It was surprising to see that even waiters in the restaurants don’t speak any English. English menus are available but are much shorter than the Spanish version. Start practicing what you learned in high school.
Shopping: I will be honest, I didn’t shop a lot. It was not the goal of my trip but I did check out some stores. I noticed that Argentinians value local designers and I cannot blame them: trendy, street style fashion and good quality leather goods and cashmeres. Palermo Soho is known for its boutiques with original and trendy designers. If you want to experience more high fashion, stroll through the streets of Recoleta, home of luxury stores, posh hotels and beautiful architecture. Also, Galleries Pacifico is a well known mall housing many European and local designers while Florida street, just around the corner, has more contemporary choices to offer. And finally there’s Murillo Street where you can find all leather goods and accessories. However, be careful as the quality can be doubtful and prices are aimed for tourists. You should try to negotiate and check all stitching before buying.
Street markets: all of them happen only on Saturday-Sunday and holidays. Some are open only on Sundays. It is a perfect opportunity to see local artisans, buy souvenirs and get to know the culture through its arts and crafts. The most well known are in San Telmo, Palermo Soho has several small ones, and Recoleta, near the cemetery, where you can find beautiful pieces made of silver, glass and wood as well as great place to pick up some leather accessories. Prices are very affordable, bargaining is allowed and the atmosphere is laid back.
Culture: Although, Buenos Aries is known for its theater, museums and art galleries, we didn’t go to any. The best known opera house, Theater Colon, will start it’s opera performances the last week of September and I heard it’s a must. Cassa Rosada, Rose House, is best known as a residence of Eva Peron, and home for Evita, was somewhat disappointing and it is still an active residence for the government. Recoleta cemetery where Eva Peron found peace, was closed for tours. If you are more into architecture and design, walk around Palermo Soho and Palermo Chico and you will find tons of art galleries and furniture boutiques worth checking out.
Finally food: I was absolutely blown away by the food in Buenos Aires. Everything was so delicious and unbelievably fresh. While famous for its steaks and great wine, Buenos Aires has also so much of other cousins to offer.
On Sunday, visit the Elena Restaurant located in the Hotel Four Seasons. For $60 dine on their all you can eat and drink buffet and the food choices will leave even the most extravagant food critic satisfied. From seafood and oysters, to cold cuts, steaks and an elaborate dessert table, this place is amazing.
Go to Calden del Soho for authentic steak attended by locals. Located in artsy Palermo Soho, you will have a choice of the best steaks cooked in front of you. Arrive hungry.
Gran Bar Dazon in trendy Recoleta, is a cool Asian Fusion restaurant and lounge where you can have dinner and then move to a lounge area and enjoy cocktails while listening to the DJ spin for hours.
For a Bloody Mary fix go to a local spot also in Palermo Soho called Gonzalez. A good Bloody Mary is not easy to find in Buenos Aires and this spot was my perfect go to place when I needed a break from red wine. Just tell them to make it muy picante. Another cute local spot in Palermo Soho is Helena cafe where I discovered the best-in-my-life Avocado toast. This cute little spot is perfect for breakfast or brunch and people watching.
Keep in mind that everything starts late in Buenos Aires especially areas removed from tourists and business traffic tends to look empty and even closed until about 2pm but stays open into early hours.
For fine dining go to Casa Cruz. Sophisticated with an amazing menu, intimate candlelight and extensive selection of wines, this place has it all! After dinner you can try to go to their next door daughter trendy spot, Isabell. Isabell is really cool lounge with great DJ spins, outdoor fireplace area and an all mirror small dining area. Food choices are delicious but limited compared to Casa Cruz. The crowd is younger and dressier. The door can be tough I’ve heard but we made reservations and had no issues.
I also noticed that people on Buenos Aires while put together, dress very simply and mostly casual even at more upscale places. It works well with overall laid back atmosphere of the city. Nothing is rushed or demanding while still very efficient.
Tango: while Argentina is the mother of tango, it seems to be an old fashioned, dying out activity, existing mainly to entertain curious tourists. Since we felt that being an Argentina, seeing tango is a must, after many options we chose a popular place in the San Telmo area called El Viejo Almacén. They offer pick up from the hotel, unlimited drinks thought the show and optional dinner prior. The reviews for the dinner were not great and we opted out. The show was not bad. Something I felt I have to see once but probably won’t do it again.
Areas to visit: I mentioned on several occasions, Palermo Soho, Palermo Chico and Palermo Hollywood which is basically the same area going one into another. It’s the home for cute bars, casual and trendy dining, local boutiques, graffiti, people and dogs watching, art galleries, authentic brunch spots and many more. Recoleta is a luxurious residential neighborhood with beautiful hotels, great restaurants and more upscale shopping. San Telmo and La Boca with its Caminito, home of Tango, flea markets and wall art. I wouldn’t risk eating there. Puerto Madero is a nice stroll along the water and home for the Catholic University.
Uruguay: to go or not to go?...While opinions of my friends varied and nobody seemed very enthused, we decided to break our trip and catch a ferry. After some research, we understood that we should buy tickets at the ferry terminal and the price is better when you pay in pesos. The ride to Uruguay is about three hours and we had to get up around 6am to make it to the morning ferry. When we arrived to the terminal of Buquebus ferry, where after detailed examination of our passports we were told that round ferry trip will cost us around $400. We were a bit surprised, as I highly doubt that locals pay the same price. We asked for other options, didn’t receive one straight answer, but what I learned is if you pay credit card it is more expensive than if you pay cash, and if you buy a day before online it is another price. But if you are an American you probably pay double. It seems unfair and we left. I then found another company providing better priced ferries but they were going to Colonia, but the capital Montevideo, and I honestly became too lazy to put so much effort into it, so we continued eating, drinking and people watching in beautiful Buenos Aires.
Overall, it was an amazing trip. Not only we spent a week celebrating our first wedding anniversary, we genuinely enjoyed laid back atmosphere, amazing food, wines, service, unpretentiousness and culture of this warm city.