Parlour
London is so densely populated by chain restaurants and mediocre eateries, that striking gold can be as tricky as reserving a table at the Chiltern Firehouse. Yet once in a while a gem emerges, slyly serving extraordinary food. Parlour, situated on an almost invisible side street in Kensal Green, is one such place. Owner and Chef Jesse Dunford Wood knew that the food had to compensate for the secluded location. Entirely successfully, this bar-come-restaurant vies for the custom of foodies, with its unpretentiously confident gastronomy.
Like the menu, the interior of Parlour is eclectic, caught somewhere between country pub, elegant city restaurant and rustic Italian ristorante; picture coal-burning fires, marble-topped tables and leather seating. Upon arrival you know you will stay put all evening.
As we take our seats in a candlelit corner pocket, the wine arrives; Domaine de Montaubéron Las Oliviers. This classic French rosé is priced at £23 a bottle and offers a dry, fruity finish. If this doesn’t appeal, the bar carries every beverage imaginable, including a “Beeropedia” of local craft ales. Any-time cocktails also make a statement, blending British spirits with Heston Blumenthal-esque whimsy. The Odeon Old Fashioned, for example, boasts Popcorn infused Bourbon and Butterscotch Syrup. Starting from £8, these strong delights are bold and grown-up, making the Cosmopolitan seem like a thing of the very out-dated past.
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Originally published by On:Magazine, 2015