#1870s

[danskjavlarna]

Source details and larger version.

[culturenaught]

Yelling about history

I mentioned earlier that I was reading Manisha Sinha's The Rise and Fall of the Second American Republic and that there may be further yelling. Guess what.

I just finished the chapter on the Freedman's Bureau, an agency formed in the wake of the US Civil War to help the recently enslaved become citizens. The Bureau was established under Lincoln, but he was murdered within two months so it was under Andrew Johnson for the next four years. Johnson, a complete racist of the Trumpian nature, tried hard to kill it. But the US Congress (unlike now) got in the way with veto overrides and even a couple of constitutional amendments.

As Sinha points out, the Freedman's Bureau was the United States very first attempt at a social safety net.

[The Bureau] was foundational to the Second American Republic, as well as two ideas that outlived it: that the government is responsible for the welfare of its neediest citizens and that, in particular, it owes a debt to the formerly enslaved.

And also,

The Bureau's work in the South resulted in the expansion of two distinct political traditions in the United States: a modern liberal tradition identified with African Americans and progressives that looks to the federal government to correct local injustices and inequalities and provide for all citizens, and a conservative, predominantly southern, tradition that critiques all government intervention in the economy and society as illegitimate.

There is knowing abstractly that the current faultlines in the American political sphere are a century and a half old, and there is reading the receipts. This book is providing receipts.

To modern eyes, the work the Bureau was doing is downright socialist. So many schools. Public hospitals. Public contract mediation. Land reform. Recording of grievances. Adjudication of crimes. The Bureau served all poverty stricken folk in the South, but most of that population was black for pretty obvious reasons. All this socialism flew in the face of the aristocratic tradition of the old planter society and created generational trauma that reverberates today.

[frostedmagnolias]

Day Dress

c. 1878-1879

Tessier & Sarrou

[quotation--marks]

This turn of events did not seem to surprise him, indeed it came more as a relief, though he did not fully realise it. But he was deeply unhappy at the thought of all the hatred down below which had driven him to his room. He saw again Augusta’s pale face and the lowered eyes of the fishwives; he remembered the words of Mère Mèhudin, La Normande’s silence, the empty charcuterie; and he thought to himself that Les Halles had collaborated in his downfall, that it was the entire neighbourhood that was turning him in. The mud in the streets had risen up and submerged him.

Émile Zola, The Belly of Paris (trans. Brian Nelson)

[dozydawn]

isis by gorham, 1870.

[erinsvintageemporium]

Featured Plate: 1872-06 PET01

Colour fashion plate from Peterson's National Ladies' Magazine for June 1872.

Description from page 446:

FASHIONS FOR JUNE.

FIG. I. — WALKING-DRESS OF WHITE HERNANI, OR GRENADINE. — The skirt is trimmed with four scant flounces, trimmed with a quilling of black ribbon, for which black lace may be substituted. The upper-skirt and waist may be cut in one or separate, the waist having a little fullness in it. The sleeves, neck, and skirt, are trimmed like the flounces. Hat of white muslin, fastened down with black velvet ribbon. Pearl-colored gloves and parasol.

FIG. II. — WALKING-DRESS OF GREEN STRIPED POPLIN. — The under-skirt is perfectly plain; the upper-skirt is one of those indefinable tints, with the slightest mauve tinge in it, and is made of plain twilled foulard. It is rather long at the waist, and the belt, band on the ruffles at the sleeves, and trimmings of the collar, are of green; a knot of green ribbon at the throat. Straw hat, trimmed with green ribbon, and a green gauze veil. Large, green parasol.

FIG. III. — CARRIAGE-DRESS OF GRAY STRIPED SILK. — One deep flounce trims the lower-skirt. The upper-skirt is long both front and back, is looped high up on the hip, and is trimmed with a deep fringe. The close-fitting basque, which is pointed both before and at the back, is also trimmed with fringe. Bonnet of gray straw, trimmed with a fall of gray tulle, and two of black velvet.

FIG. IV. — HOUSE-DRESS OF PINK SILK FOR A YOUNG LADY. — A deep plaiting of fine, white, French muslin is around the bottom of the under-skirt. The apron-front, panniers at the side, sash-ends, sleeves, and waist, are all trimmed with white muslin plaitings. Round hat of white chip, trimmed with quillings of pink ribbon.

FIG. V. — HOUSE-DRESS OF WHITE MUSLIN. — The lower-skirt has a puffing of white muslin over a band of green silk or percale. The upper-skirt, waist, and sleeves, are trimmed in a similar manner. Broad flat of Leghorn, trimmed with black velvet.

[oldjewelryfeed]

c1870s

[erinsvintageemporium]

Featured Plate: 1876-06 JDD4053

Fashion plate 4053 from the Journal des Demoiselles, engraved by Paul Lacourière after an illustration by Rigolet.

Toilettes et Etoffes du Petit St. Thomas, Rue du Bac, 27 à 35.

Foulards de la Compagnie des Indes, rue de Grenelle St Germain, 42.

Rubans et Passementeries de la Ville de Lyon, rue de la Chaussée d'Antin, 6.

Machines à coudre Wheeler et Wilson, Boulevard Sebastopol, 70.

Parfums de la Maison Pinaud, Boulevard des Italiens, 30.

Eventails artistiques de la maison Alexandre, Boulevard Montmartre, 14.

~~~~~

Description from page 192:

GRAVURE DE MODES

Toilettes des magasins du Petit-Saint-Thomas. 33, rue du Bac.

Chapeaux de Mme. de Bysterveld, rue du Faubourg-St-Honoré, 3.

Première toilette. — Costume en foulard uni et écossais. — Première jupe ornée dans le bas de trois volants plissés, surmontés d'un biais écossais. — Polonaise en écossais avec bande droite devant, ornée de trois rangées de boutons; biais uni dans le bas et effilé en laine à glands; poche plissée sur le côté, manche unie avec revers écossais; la polonaise est relevée derrière et forme draperie. — Chapeau en paille Manille orné dessous d'une touffe de roses et de petites clochettes blanches; dessus, guirlande avec traine des mêmes fleurs.

Deuxième toilette. — Costume en vigogne d'Oxford. Première jupe ornée dans le bas d'un grand volant plissé, en taffetas uni. — Polonaise bordée d'un biais uni, relevée derrière avec un nœud à pans en taffetas, garni d'un effilé à grille; poche froncee avec nœud dans le bas, manche avec revers et pattes boutonnées. — Chapeau en tulle bleu, drapé sur le dessus, orné d'une large touffe de marguerites; dessous, guirlande de marguerites.

Toilette de petite fille. — Costume en percale d'Alsace. — Jupe ornée dans le bas de trois volants froncés alternés, rayés et unis, surmontés d'un biais uni. — Polonaise bordée d'un biais uni, relevée derrière, sous la basque, en draperie avec nœud derrière. — Corsage ouvert devant avec draperie et nœud; manche à cornet dans le bas avec draperie. — Chapeau auvergnate en paille avec petit bavolet plissé, orné de coques de ruban. — Bottines à petits carreaux, boutonnées sur le dessus du pied.