Andrew Guard, importer with a difference
One of the most memorable quotes in Andrew Jefford's fine book, "The New France", is this, attributed to the godfather of biodynamic viticulture, Nicolas Joly: "Before being good, a wine should be true."
I'm sorry Mr Joly, but that's where you part company with me - and, I suspect, Andrew Guard too.
Guard brings in some of the most interesting French wines you're likely to find in this town. He has made 'natural' wines something of a specialty, which is very a la mode, but he is keen to make it known this doesn't mean he likes faulty or badly-made wines.
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This is a paid article, available with Full Membership. First published in 16 Feb 2010 - Sydney Morning Herald, Good Living













