#assembly line patterns

[lizzy-swatches]

Blueberry twill

Another closeout, this stretch cotton-rayon twill is a very pretty color but pretty sturdy (around 10 ounces), just under a lightweight denim weight (12 ounces). I really wish I could remember what I had in mind when I bought it, as not many of my patterns call for twill, much less something that’s nearly denim-weight!

I suppose I might have been considering two modern patterns I don’t actually own:

The Assembly Line V-necked dress.

or the Merchant & Mills Top 64, with dress alteration.

Or who knows? Maybe I just bought it because it was there.

It’s a really beautiful color and very soft. Perhaps any of the more structured dresses, which take a flannel or worsted would handle the weight alright. If so, there are a lot of patterns in the stash which would be nice.

Vogue 1679 has the benefit of being one I’ve made, adjusted and was happy with.

On the other hand, this McCall’s from 1967 is adorable and would be very wearable. PLUS that Vogue 7800 taught me a technique for patch pockets with no topstitching. They’d be cute (and useful) on this McCall’s dress.

I come back to Vogue 6399 often--it’s such a nice pattern. I might even have enough to squeak out both the dress and the jacket because I will shorten the waist and the length for the dress (and the waist for the jacket).

I need a six month funded sabbatical to spend in my sewing room. Would that not be nice?

[lizzy-swatches]

Wool

I bought these two wools on closeout at Mood. Neither is labeled washable, but if I have a drycleaner steam them good and hot, they will be essentially preshrunk and possible to wash at home with a no-rinse wool detergent. I have not decided if I’ll do that, however. It’s probably a good idea and if I take it to my tailor (which also does cleaning), I’m sure they’d understand what I am asking for.

This is a striped suiting with a very pale blue stripe. “Suiting” is nondescriptive--it just means “this is suitable for suits”. It could be almost any fiber, in a variety of weaves, with or without textures. It implies conservative colors or muted patterns; it requires a certain crispness to hold the shape of a lapel or cuff. But otherwise, it can be basically anything.

This is 100% wool, midweight “three season” fabric.

I plan to use it for a new Merchant & Mills trapeze dress:

It’s a good weight for the shape, although I might follow the lead of many on the internet and grade the skirt to a more A-line, less trapeze, shape. I wonder if I’ll want to line it--it’s not lined--because of the wool.

I am making the sleeveless version, with the idea of layering it.

This wool twill is heavier, stiffer, with a flannel backing. It’s more of a coating but I think it will work well for the Assembly Line apron dress. Probably a bit heavier than their recommended cotton twill or denim, but not enough to be a problem.

I’m curious how I’ll manage the waist-shaping which is done through snaps or buttons. I’m still not great with buttons and I’ve never installed the sort of jacket-type snaps this pattern intends you to use: the sort you install by whacking with a mallet. The pattern is rated “easy” and I can just use traditional sew-in snaps, though my track record in placing them precisely is not great.

Since implementing my new queuing database, I’ve finished two vintage dresses (the gingham and the novelty woven), a Camber dress, and a vintage repro pattern to be used as a Halloween costume. I’ve almost finished a large Stowe bag (it the bias binding that has slowed me down) and cut the vintage housecoat. After the housecoat, the kimono for my sister is next in line, but I’m considering slipping another Gyo in there.