BEAR CASTLE CYCLE WORLDBUILDING
Íochiars and Cabalusian uniforms
Here's some worldbuilding regarding military and uniforms I've been thinking about lately. I'll present that through story relevant case studies - Marcus before the Civil War (first image) and Valeri (second image). Marcus was the general of the Cabalusian Guard, a personal army of the Mantgamia clan, which was under direct command of the Mantgamia clan and separate from the Imperial Army. And Valeri is in the Virénian army, which is part of the Imperial Army.
The Imperial Army
A little background is needed. The Imperial Army is raised from each province and therefore consists basically of four independent armies. The emperor is the supreme commander. Each province is allowed to keep an elite force under the command of the duke, since they tend to be too loyal to their local rulers and historically assimilating them to the Imperial Army has been met with heavy resistance. Imperial rulers who have attempted to do that have at worst almost caused civil wars, and at best lost battles to mutiny. So instead heavy restrictions is placed on the size and resources of these personal armies to ensure they can never be a threat to the imperial forces. Disbanding them entirely is for sure an option (and has been done sometimes as we'll get to), but keeping them around is beneficial to the empire since these personal armies consist of very skilled forces. The Imperial House also has it's own personal elite force, the Imperial Legion, or just the Legion more familiarly. There's no restriction for it, and it's kept always in higher numbers than the Provincial Guards.
Cabalusian Guard was of course fighting on the Mantgamian side of the civil war and fully disbanded after it. Prince Lucretius, uncle to the young emperor, became the Duke of Cabalusia and uses part of the Legion as his personal army.
Íochiars
Almost half of Cabalusia is steppe, therefore it has a strong horse culture and renowned cavalry. Íochiar cavalry class originates from there. It's a medium (or light) cavalry class and generally very flexible and can be used for a lot of purposes of both heavy and light cavalry, though usually it's more suited for light cavalry purposes. Cerfi (the majority cultural/ethnic group of Cabalusia) are on average pretty tall people, so even their light cavalry tends to have taller cavalrymen. For that reason the local Cabalusian horse is a bit bigger than the typical pretty small light cavalry horse. They don't use sabers, like most light cavalry, but instead carry Cabalusian style broadswords, which can be used fairly flexibly just as íochiars themselves. Their units also employ Cabalusian Bear Dogs, which are bred for hunting big game, like bears, but has historically been used for war too. They are primarily employed for skirmishing, scouting and pursuit.
Íochiars have a strong internal culture with long historical roots, which helps their units in operating effectively, even though they lack the discipline many other cavalry classes, especially heavy cavalry classes possess. That culture is heavily rooted in the Cabalusian Cerfi culture. Even though all of the provincial armies have íochiar regiments, most íochiars are still Cerfi. After the Civil War a lot of the officers of imperial íochiars were purged or demoted, since many of them were Mantgamia sympathizers or outright joined their ranks in the civil war, so more of the officers are now not Cerfi, while still majority of the troops are Cerfi. The Cabalusian army also has light íochiars, whose riders and horses are smaller and who carry sabers, but otherwise are the same. This version is not used outside Cabalusia, since scimitars, a class which originates from Merus, is the primary lightest cavalry used in the Imperial Army.
Uniforms
Finally we arrive at the uniforms. The standard imperial uniform has breeches, doublet and a tailed jerkin, but íochiar uniform as well as a lot of Cabalusian Guard uniforms has a short fur lined pelisse instead of jerkin. Pelisse is what Marcus is wearing on his shoulder and Valeri under his cloak. There's a bit of shift in men's fashion between the roughly 20 years that are between these outfits. The tops have become shorter and the breeches more high-waisted and the collars slightly taller.
Pelisse originates from traditional Cabalusian fashion, which is very wool based (the steppe economy in Cabalusia has long been relying on sheep a lot). The two traditional ways to pattern fabrics were felting and sewing metal decorations into it. Scale armor was developed by the Cerfi early on and was made similarly as the decorative method. They sewed small metallic scales overlapping to clothing, creating full body armor like that too. The result was fairly light and a pretty effective armor, which still had good movement and flexibility. Felted clothing with fur lining as the base for the scale armor provided padding and extra protection. Metal working has been integral part of Cerfi culture since ancient times, and before their conversion to Arkhonity, it was also part of their magic rituals. Gold magic was practiced by the Cerfi and golden pearls, amulets and lamellae were sewn into clothing to imbue them with magical properties. The scales for the armor (especially for a very fine armor) could be coated with gold to imbue them too with magic. While the gold magic is now considered heresy and it's practice has died out, gold still has a lot of cultural significance and it's thought of as a lucky and protective metal. That's why uniforms still heavily use patterns made with sewn in gold pieces.
Medium weight íochiars use pelisse, which has scaling on the front panels. It gives them a bit of armor for the torso, but is still much lighter than the plate armor the heavy cavalry uses. See Valeri's pelisse. Marcus however, being Merusian and quite short, was originally a scimitar, but after he joined the Cabalusian Guard, he became light íochiar. His pelisse on the illustration is a high ranking officer's pelisse with gold decorations though, since uniforms of the Cabalusian Guard are also were more influenced by Cerfi dress than imperial uniforms. Light íochiars also use pelisse without scale armor, though much less decorated. Valeri is wearing not a helmet exactly, but something between a felt hat and a helmet. The base is felt and like the clothes, it has sewn in lamellae and other metallic parts, in this case visor and other protective gear for the head. It's another compromise between light weight and protection, using metal only for the strategic spots while lighting it with felt, which also gives padding under the metal.
Cabalusian colours come from the Mantgamia clan, which has long been the ruling clan of Cabalusia, long before it was conquered by the empire. They are green and black, and gold for the broader cultural significance is of course also heavily used in Cabalusian armors. Horse is naturally a significant animal to Cabalusia and is in their coat of arms, but the Mantgamian coat of arms has a bear, and as the Cabalusian Guard was originally specifically Matgamian army, it's also in their coat of arms and heavily included in all it's symbolism. For example the pelisse of the general is lined with bear fur. Bear fur is only used by very high ranking officers though. Even though bear worship (which the Mangamias practiced before Arkhonity) is infidel, the superstitions around bears are still widely believed. Bear fur is treated with utmost respect and needs to be earned, otherwise there will be bad luck.
Valeri, being íochiar in the imperial army, is wearing the imperial red and gold. Due to their association with Mantgamia colours, black is also used in many íochiar regiment uniforms. Typically the pelisse at least is black.
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