I can consider this done now, me thinks 🙂 A more suitable bivert module from @kitschbent is installed now and it makes all the difference. If I'd had this one from the start, I'd have saved a bunch of time and headaches. It took me longer to remove the old one and clean up the excess solder than it did to install this new one. I will save the one from @handheldlegend for when I get around to backlighting my DMG for sure.
For reference and comparison, I've posted pics of everything.
1. Final setup using the bivert module from KB, white LED backlight from HHL, a 5v step-up regulator from @pololurobotics, and a BitBoy from @gameboyphoto
2. KB bivert module installed. Not everyone will be comfortable installing this, but take you time, steady your hand, and have a fine soldering tip and magnifyer and you'll be fine.
3. Wiring of the HHL bivert module install.
4. Cleaned up solder pads on the other side, ready for KB's bivert module.
5. The wires soldered for HHL's module. This wasn't difficult by any means but in my case even though the wires were flat and the suggested gauge, they put too much pressure on the back of the screen which caused a 'blotchy' spot where the polarization film pressed too hard against the glass. This wasn't a deal breaker but the wire routing also caused a lot of trouble when trying to close up the shell later.
6. The removed bivert module, which I'll keep for my DMG mod 👍 So much wire for such a small shell 😮
7 & 8. Close ups of the 5v regulator install. There's not a lot of good documentation on how to set this up properly so I hope this helps anyone looking to do that particular mod.
9. Reverse side showing where the backlight is soldered now that the 5v regulator is installed. Note that there was a pin between the two boards where the red wire is connected. This pin must be removed. The advantage to this is that you get steady voltage to the backlight while keeping its drain separate from that of the game, etc.
