Rock climbing in Margalef Spain (all in Espadelles)
La homiga atomica 6a+ got quite pumped on this for a warm up!
Ni pa te 6b was a really nice climb and actually felt easier than the 6a+ strangely
Kagaito sakapoko 6c+ rested on second and third bolt trying to find the more positive pockets. Would be a nice one to go back and try again although I was pretty pumped on it so not sure if I would be strong enough just yet
Guirlache 6c I went directly through the roof / slightly left at the top and made it so much harder for myself! Only just made it to the belay chain without falling off! Fred tried it and went right over the roof and seemed to find it way easier than me!
Gest d’inocencia 6b+ the start was quite bouldery but positive holds and enjoyable. The top goes diagonal left which somehow makes the bolts feel further apart so a good climb for the head as a warm up!
Tastavins 6b+ a tricky start so it was nice to use a clipstick for the first bolt as you yard up on a small pocket from a pile of rocks on the ground that are awkwardly balanced. The rest of the climb is really fun. You go up this where there are cracks and tufa like features but also smooth looking flow stone. The overhang is good fun and the holds are all there out on the right
Sobredosis de rocaina 6c I climbed the route fine until the overhang and then found it quite reachy and pumpy! Fred found it ok so I decided to give it another go as I had to rest but when I tried it again it made no difference! A hard route for me to crack without getting too pumped and falling mid way up!
Que pasa neng 7a onsighted this one! Think it’s a soft 7a but it’s super fun, overhanging but positive at the bottom and thin and technical at the top.
Memoria histerica 6b this was a nice climb, fairly simple and not as interesting as the 6b+ next to it though. Decent warm up.
Repos actiu 6c+ the first time I tried it I found it super pumpy as I didn’t know the moves. I put the clips in and tried it again having figured out the moves and cruised it which felt nice
Dulce Bella 7a phew! I took 3 massive falls on this. I found the top section really hard after the two holes. I had to come down and let Fred try it as I couldn’t finish it. I tried it again on top rope after Fred had done it but I was really tired and still found the top half really tricky. The last moves to get to the chain are so horrible I don’t think I would try and Redpoint the route. Simply because you have to go direct up and then somehow step right to grab the chain which I would find incredibly hard after the entire pumpy route! Such a beautiful line but one I need to be stronger for and the bolts are a bit run out at the top so having taken those 3 massive falls it was a bit mentally exhausting too!
Punt x 6b+ had a really hard crux in the middle where both Fred and I came off with our hands in the wrong position. Neither interesting or a good warm up!
Punto de gravedad cero 6c the start was quite delicate and strong fingers are required but overall it’s a great climb with some hand jamming and laybacks further up! After the start it’s fairly relaxed climbing for the grade
Beta de boira 7a I love this climb and it was soft for the grade. The first two bolts were tricky as it was hard pulling onto the wall but after that all the handholds were there and there were plenty of rests. The corner up top was great for bridging which meant less pump! Onsight for both Fred and I.
Franja de ponent 7a a really hard pull onto the wall to start on the first move. Reading the route ahead of time helped as I knew when to go left and where all the good holds were on the pumpy first section. Lots of rests again and the top section had surprisingly large holds for a 7a. Onsight for both Fred and I.
Te lo juro por mi iPhone 6b had a thin start that felt extremely hard for a 6b, I think Fred and I both pulled on the quickdraw!
Redue! Me faras consomi 6b+ had a thin start and then a pumpy move left through the break
Mi Tito Hirrou 6b nice warm up. Small ish holds but all positive and no crux move
La Ruta de Unai 6b+ another nice warm up. Similar to its neighbour.
Stratochalster 7a this felt like a real 7a! The start had a really bouldery strong move which both Fred and I struggled on although I was able to get my foot higher which helped a little bit but I couldn’t really do it! Then after the break over the overhang was steep on un positive holds! I was wrecked trying the moves and had to pull on the quick draw even though Fred marked some holds for me. Then at the top all of a sudden it got run out! I liked the variety of the route but it was certainly one I would need to work a lot or get stronger for!
Aixo no es pot resistir a chilled warm up with some nice moves. Quite nice to start on this wall in the morning as it gets the sun and then move over to the opposite main wall in the afternoon
Setareh 6c lots of jugs and a little overhanging. An easy one to onsight and got a little pump on.
Abanibi 6c this was a little more tricky to figure out the moves. It was less pumpy as you get the corner to bridge out on but it took me longer to figure out whether to go on the arete lower down and then whether to stick right in the corner higher up or not. But an onsight without pump which is a little more technical is nice.
Overbooking 6c not quite as nice a route as it’s neighbours. It’s not as visited therefore the holds are hard to find. The holds are small and sharp at the beginning so it gives the route a bit of a punchy start. I warmed up on it so had a couple of rests but then left the quick draws in and gave it another go after and it was fine.
Supermana 6c technical start followed by a juggy (for vertical) end. I didn’t onsight the beginning as I tried to go straight up rather then slightly right in the crux. I didn’t bother doing it again as wanted to climb some others
Ller crack 6c+ felt easier than its neighbour guirlache!
On our rest days we went to playa larga and Tarragona which were both really nice
