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i'm working on a cosplay that i have mostly done except for the bikini top. i made it and it looked right but when i tried it on it flattened my boobs and didn't sit right on me, i think its bc of the material? i'm doing it in linen bc it's a post apocalypse thing, would i be better off modifying a bikini top and them putting linen over it? also it's supposed to have a stand up collar and i don't even know where to begin with that since its supposed to be a halter neck. help me obi-wan kenobi

Hello there!

This is probably an issue of the cut of the top. Most commercial bikini tops are either a stretch material that can stretch around the breast, or they have a molded foam base that already has a rounded shape built in. With a non-stretch fabric, you’ll have to add roundness in the pattern and the cut of the top in order to make enough room for your breasts, otherwise you’ll flatten out.

There are a few ways to go about this, depending on how much room and support you need and what look you want.

The easiest thing to do would be to make a triangle-style top larger at the bottom than needed and gather it down. The gathers would make it fit under the bust, but the extra fabric would create room for the breast. This method would require visible gathers (which you may not want) and would provide the least support.

The next option would be to create what is basically a princess seam down the front of the pattern. This would be a two-part cup where the seam crosses the bustline vertically. One half would have a curve in it, so that it is larger in the middle, and the other piece would be mostly straight or have a less prominent curve in it. This would create some support and is capable of creating more room for the breast. The bikini top would look something like Violet in this image

(From here: http://bramakers.blogspot.com/2014_09_01_archive.html This site sells their patterns, btw)

The final option would be to construct it like a 3-part bra cup. This has multiple seams that help create more contoured fit, as well as creating more support. This would be your best option if you have larger breasts or otherwise need more support. The pattern would look generally like this...

(From here: http://clothhabit.com/making-a-foam-cup-bra-part-2/)

...though there are other styles out there that change things up either for fashion or for different amounts of support. You can see what the finished bra would look like in the link above.

The main points here are to have a well-fitted band (the part under the breasts) and well-fitting cups that are cut with enough room for the breasts in them. This will support and lift and prevent the squashed look that a non-stretch bra top cut without enough room will create. I would also recommend adding foam cups to the bra to create a little more shape and support, and help prevent anything from showing through.

For the stand collar, I would need a reference image to see how it attaches in both the back and front, but you can probably simply combine a collar with the halter neck. I have a tutorial here for detachable collars: http://fabrickind.tumblr.com/post/154655300848

I hope that helps! :]

—Fabrickind / Q&A Staff

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