Friday 24 July 1998 as retold 24 July 1998 - funny hat day and I need a new camera
Friday 24 July 1998
(as retold on 24th July 2018)
Hi everyone, Grüezi mitenand e buon giorno a tutti. Wie geht es Euch? Come state voi?
Heute fahren wir nach Zürich mit dem Zug. Oggi andiamo in treno per Zurigo.
And I am afraid, yes there is a lot to read here for Friday 24 July 1998. So I will make a short list at the top, and let you decide if you want to continue.
- Train from München Hbf to Zürich HB, via Buchloe im Ostallgäu, Memmingen, Lindau, Bregenz, St. Margarethen, St. Gallen, Winterthur, Zürich Airport and Zürich HB
- Description of the locomotives between München Hbf - Lindau and Lindau - Zürich HB
- Taking the S-4 train from Zürich HB to Manegg, Line 70 bus to Morgental and trolleybus 33 to hostel
- Tram 7 to Zürich HB and Nationalmuseum
- Description of Nationalmuseum
- Webcams at the Limmatquai
- Selfie at the Clausius Bar on ETH Zürich campus
- quick journey to Stettbach station
- S-10 Üetlibergbahn to Üetliberg
- S-18 to Forch
- Dinner at Brasserie Johanniter
- Tram 7 and Trolleybus to hostel
Okay so that was the summary, so those who really want to read all the details, just for 24 July 1998, here they are! Enjoy!
Twenty years ago today, I went on possibly my favorite train routes, from Munich, to Zürich, then Milan and back home to München via Verona and Innsbruck. And yes I took that funny red-white-and-green striped hat along. I had taken a similar route on 4th to 6th July 1997 but with very little planning beyond reading a train schedule. But 24th to 26th July 1998 I had a better idea of where I could generally find better deals and more worthwhile sights. The eventual breakdown of the Samsung Evoca 115 presented challenges for that weekend, but did not take away the enjoyment.
In July 1997 I was unable to find the intended youth hostel to stay the night, and not knowing where Wollishofen was at the time, I had to make do at the Biber (Beaver) Backpacker Hostel on Niederdorfstrasse 5. It was nice but not my kind of place, even if it shares space with the current Spaghetti Factory Rosenhof. A little too close to the city center for my liking. For July 1998 I reserved a bed in a six-bed all-male dorm room (do you remember from June 1998, the Na Zborenci in Prague that was co-ed?) at the Wollishofen hostel. Also I bought a restricted reserved ticket for 89 D-Mark in First Class to Zürich instead of using a day on my Eurail Pass.
The first leg of this journey went from München Hbf, leaving about 8:10 AM, then headed to Buchloe without stopping in München Pasing, Memmingen, Lindau, Bregenz in Austria, Sankt Margarethen in Switzerland, then Sankt Gallen, Winterthur, Zürich Airport and Zürich HB. The train changes direction in Lindau for the reason of switching between the DB 218 diesel locomotives for Munich to Lindau as that section is not electrified, and from Lindau to Zürich, special electric locomotives of type "Re420" (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SBB-CFF-FFS_Re_420) use dual German (wide) and Swiss (narrow) pantographs, yet the electricity is the same. When I arrived in Zürich, I took a photo of the locomotive, looks similar to the one in the link.
For some reason, in Switzerland it is a practice to use the abbreviation HB instead of Hbf. Similarly they don't use the "ß" letter for "ss". The Rechtschreibreform that took effect on 1st August 1998 did not change that convention either.
As for the German part of the journey, there is electrification from München Hbf up to Geltendorf, and from Geltendorf all the way to Lindau there is no electrification, but there is a line from Geltendorf to Augsburg. Even with electrification, the DB 218 diesel locomotive is used until Lindau. If you also were to go to Schloß Neuschwanstein in Füssen, the line would also be non-electrified. At Memmingen there is a northern rail connection to Ulm where there is electrification to either Stuttgart or München. From Geltendorf to Memmingen, the topography is basically flat, maybe a few hills here and there. It doesn't start to get interesting until after Memmingen, where the line crosses between the states of Baden Württemberg and Bavaria.
The train stops at Lindau, I think about 10:10 AM, almost at the close end of the platform, where the two DB 218 diesel locomotives are uncoupled, and then a few minutes later at the other end, the Re 420 electric locomotive is coupled. I think I was in the furthest car in München, and then ended up in front in Lindau towards Zürich. When the train leaves Lindau for Bregenz and Zürich, the compartment window is on the right, and is the ideal place to view passing along the bank of Lake Constance. That day was not exactly sunny but still beautiful.
About 10:35 AM the train pulls in to Bregenz in Vorarlberg. For those travelling to points in Austria farther east, even to Vaduz in Liechtenstein, this would be the station to transfer, as Sankt Margarethen on the Swiss side is much smaller. At this time, we don't have our passports checked due to the December 1997 ascension of Austria to the Schengen Agreement. The train departs 10:43 AM for Sankt Margarethen. It is a very short distance but somehow it feels more profound as the train is crossing from an EU nation to a non-EU nation. And there will be passport checks.
At 10:51 AM, the train crosses the Rhine river westward. This is the natural land border for the Swiss canton of Sankt Gallen, and the Austrian state of Vorarlberg, and to some degree, also Liechtenstein. We arrive at 10:54 AM in Sankt Margarethen on the Swiss side and the Austrian rail crew exit the train to head back with the next return train. The Swiss crew board the train and the Swiss Grenzwache (border guards) also board to check passports. I received an arrival stamp in my passport with Sankt Margarethen as the location of entry. After the Swiss conductor announced the train destination and the next stops in German and English, it departed about 10:59 AM. It follows a format of "Ladies and Gentlemen, the train crew welcome you on the <train name>, to <stops and final destination>, and wish you a pleasant journey. Next stop, <the next stop>". Since 2000 the SBB have for the most part had this automated in German, French, Italian and English. The RhB which is separate, has its own vocal automation regime in German and Rhätorumantsch, which I have not yet experienced.
Most of the terrain between Sankt Margarethen and Winterthur varied from hilly to having fairly flat valleys and nice farmlands, even including a "Villars" sign in the shape of a cow. You will have to imagine taking the letters and moving them askew to get the picture quite correct. The train did not stop at Gossau but if it did, that would be an excellent connection to Herisau in Appenzell Ausser Rhoden. To get to Frauenfeld in Thurgau and on to Konstanz in Germany, you would need to remain on the train until Winterthur and transfer there. But not this time, my main object for the day was reaching Zürich.
The train reached Zürich Airport by 12:10 PM. By then I was listening to DRS 1 (German-language Radio in Switzerland), the radio announcer's accent was not too difficult to understand. Also I heard before the news, "Don't stop the dance" by Bryan Ferry and "Sexy Tango" (in italiano) by Fabio Concato. Previously I was also listening to RSR (en francais), one of the songs included "un amour que m'irait bien" by Véronique Sanson. I took a photo of the Zürich Airport train destination sign so I could get the timing correct to tell twenty years hence and even later, and it said that the train would not leave for Zürich HB until 12:16 PM. At the time, a train ride from the airport to the city took about 15 minutes, so an arrival of 12:35 PM would be realistic. As I mentioned, after I got off the train, I took a picture of the Re 420 that took the train all the way from Lindau to Zürich HB.
Ok so first things first in Zürich HB. Transportation is not free, and the fine for not having a ticket is 80 CHF (Swiss Francs), about 90 D-Mark. Not cheap!!!! I wanted to visit the Üetliberg that day so I bought a four zone day pass for 13.40 CHF. Zürich's day passes are good for 24 full hours after purchase. I had some Swiss Francs that I withdrew from the Stadtsparkasse München Marienplatz branch, so I did not need to use an ATM yet. Swiss Francs have high value coins like 1, 2, and 5 Francs, something like 1.20, 2.40 and 6.00 D-Mark, respectively. The bills are only, at least with the so-called SNB 8th release, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 1,000. Most common were up to 100 CHF. I think at SSKM the only bills they dispensed were the 50 CHF. Well anyway it was time to find the way to the hostel. So why did I not want to take the direct Tram 7 to Morgental? No idea, I figured I could take the S-4 to Manegg and take the bus line 70, either way I would end up at Morgental anyway.
The S-4 shares the same underground station location in Zürich HB as the S-10 AKA "Üetlibergbahn" but uses the Swiss AC voltage and not the DC voltage of the S-10, that is why the S-10 has an offset pantograph. So to get from Zürich HB to Manegg, I would take the S-4 in the direction of Langnau Gattikon. I think it took four stops until Manegg, including the second underground station Selnau, right under the River Sihl. I did manage to catch a line 70 bus at Manegg to Morgental within 15 minutes of the S-4 heading to Langnau Gattikon. Line 70 goes along the Butzenstrasse to Albisstrasse and on to Morgental, but it has to make a left turn on to Tannenrauchstrasse then pass by the trolleybus stop. There is only then a short walk around the corner from the bus 70 stop to the trolleybus 33 - a short one stop journey. I think it was about 1:40 PM when I boarded the trolleybus for that short hop, included in my bus pass. It was not too bad of a detour, now that I look back.
In July 1998, what was the color of the Zürich SJH hostel, the one in Mutschellenstrasse 114? I do not believe it was its present "mauve", as over the years since 2001 it has been continuously renovated. Even the entry was different than what I remembered in December 2016 when I last stayed, namely right at the corner of the far end of Tannenrauchstrasse and Mutschellenstrasse. Basically the breakfast room and reception between July 1998 and I guess August 2004, they swapped places. The reception was not quite ready to let me claim my bed, as they would not accept checkins until 2 PM. In July 1998 the waiting area had former Swissair coach class seats to sit on. By the time 2 PM came around, I gave my passport, my hostelling membership card and 30 CHF for the night. I dropped off my clothes bag with the coffee thermos, and took my day bag with the makeshift soda-mix bottle and extra 11 ounce cans in case I got thirsty along the way. Then I was ready to go into town. And yes I took that red-white-and-green striped hat along.
Because in July 1998 the "Jugendherberge" stop was not constructed for southbound travel on the line 33 to go from Tannenrauchstrasse to Morgentalstrasse, I had to walk, but luckily not with the clothes bag that time. At Morgental I could board the Tram line 7. At that time, the Tram Line 7 had an older rolling stock, which in 2018 I admit I miss, and they have been replaced by the Tram 2000 stock. The tram went fairly fast between stops, up to Bahnhof Enge at the northwest end of Lake Zürich, where it slowed down to about 20 mph up to Central. That year, Zürich had its display of full-sized ceramic cows in various locations, I think there might have been over 100 different designs, I think I photographed up to 30 of them.
First thing I wanted to see was the Schweizerisches Nationalmuseum (nationalmuseum.ch), which is physically next door to Zürich HB, across from Museumstrasse. The building itself is kind of the same architectural tradition as the St. Vitus cathedral in Prague. It is almost a completely uninterrupted rectangle, and to walk from one end to the other, it is about an eighth of a mile, per level. And lots of history too. Zürich along with Wittenberg and Geneva, was part of the Protestant Reformation, so there were many works and descriptions inside attributed to Martin Luther and Huldrich Zwingli. Zwingli was also the head pastor of the Grossmünster, about a half mile south along the River Limmat towards Lake Zürich. There was one particular painting that was originally painted prior to the Reformation, and it contained some religious materials that some 16th century clergy objected to, so those were cut out and painted over, and you could easily see where the cutouts were made. That was a very interesting visit, the Nationalmuseum.
So then it was about 3 PM, and about time for me to show off my striped hat. I knew of a webcam back in those days, that you could point a certain camera from a business place on Limmatquai just off the Central trolley stop, across the Limmat, and even across the street to the sidewalk. I found somewhere close to where I was right across from the Bierhalle Wolf (approximately), moved a few feet here and there for fifteen minutes, and I think a few days later I was sent some photos of myself standing in that spot, with that hat. I do not know if those cameras are still functional, but twenty years ago, that seemed to be the neatest thing, to take remote photos from halfway around the world.
Then it became 3:30 and I wanted to ride the Polybahn. What is the Polybahn? It is a funicular train that operates only Mondays to Saturdays between Central and Leonhardstrasse on the ETH Zürich campus. The fare is the same as a ride on the trams and busses and the day pass was perfectly valid. It even had a sign saying that riding without a valid ticket, would cost a fine of 80 CHF. Even for the ETH Zürich students.
I looked for a place on Tannenstrasse and Clausiusstrasse to get a selfie of my own. The exact location of the selfie, complete with the striped hat, would be the current location of the Clausiusbar facing south. And there it was. Then it was time to come back down with the Polybahn for the next adventure.
I now and again buy German-language guide books. One in particular I wanted to buy in 1997 I did not get around to, but I found one at the Neuperlach Zentrum Kaufland book department for just 6.50 D-Mark, a bargain off the regular price of 10.00 D-Mark. In it, there was a mention of the rail station Stettbach. The original German text says "Wer im neuen Bahnhof Stadelhofen die S-Bahn besteigt und das Meisterwerk des Stararchitekten Calatrava bestaunt, tut gut daran, nicht gleich bei der nächsten Station am anderen Ende des Zürichbergtunnels wieder auszusteigen". I guess Marco Polo was only trying to warn tourists to expect Stettbach to be as interesting as Stadelhofen. My verdict, upon taking the train from Zürich HB to Zürich Stettbach via Stadelhofen, was that it was a tolerable station, and had its merits. I was not particularly disappointed in it, seemed worth the journey even twenty years on.
And then? The big reason I had come to Zürich, was to visit the Üetliberg. Even if the S-Bahn in Zürich HB is underground, there are practically two stations, one near the Nationalmuseum, and the other closer to the main shopping street called the SZU station. So you would have to either exit the then- tracks 21 to 24 underground station, and take any passage, surface or underground, to the then- tracks 1 and 2. Now respectively they are called Tracks 41 to 44 and tracks 21 and 22. The reason for this is the new Löwenstrasse underground station that have tracks 31 to 34. So a total of 10 underground platforms in Zürich HB. With that in mind, it was about 4:30 PM, and there were shuttling S-10 trains, not all would go to Üetliberg, but some would terminate at Triemli. I had to stop at Triemli, wait about ten minutes for another S-10 train for Üetliberg. For the most part, the route is electrified with DC and single tracked. Somewhere around Uitikon Waldegg there is a double track section for the opposite train. While waiting for the S-10 for Üetliberg, I listened to the radio and the Tour De France Festina Affair was being discussed at length, among other events around Zürich and Switzerland.
Now when I arrived at Üetliberg, I was able to get a few photographs with the camera, but it started to jam. Would not take normal photos anymore. The only thing I could do to trick the camera to take photos, was to hold on the "long distance" focus-free emulator button noted by a mountain rage icon, and set the optical focus to the full 115 mm setting. Not a very good way to take photos, and the flash would not work. It was sad. But what could I see at Üetliberg? The train station itself had (as of December 2016) a restaurant called Gmüetliberg, and on the north side, there is a play area, including a 100 meter roller slide that must have been constructed in the mid 1970s as I remember it from my first visit as a child in 1976, has been since dismantled as of December 2016. My following visit on 9th August 1998, I went up the hill to the top where there is a hotel which I could not afford to stay at, at the time, has its own observation deck and "Hirschlampe", namely 3x-life sized figures of elks with actual lights on their antlers installed in 1991 by Bruno Weber - must see to believe! I will tell more about it on 8th and 9th August. Until then, enjoy this example.
https://commons.wikimedia.org/.../File:Aegerten...
For the rest of the day I could not take many photos but a few that I managed, were from the current location of the Kitag Cinema located at the Stadelhofen rail station where at the time they were showing an original English language version of "Truman Show" starring Jim Carrey, and I took a photo of the movie poster. At Forch I managed to get a photo facing westward across Lake Zürich. And also when I came back later, the Brasserie Johanniter when I had supper. But not much else.
I decided to take a ride from Zürich Stadelhofen to Forch and I think it was already 7 PM. I wanted to ride it in July 1997 but never found the time. The ride from Stadelhofen to Rehalp was the same route as Tram line 11. It used similar trams like the Zürich rolling stock, also using the DC power and meter gauge, and at Zumikon and Maiacher it ran underground, and this was long before both were renovated. To kind of console myself for the camera dying, I did for comic effect, record myself with the tape recorder saying "Ricola!" just like the ad. I needed to give myself a good laugh, it is not fun, if one's camera equipment goes unexpectedly bust. After I took the S-18 tram ride to and from Forch, it was time to have dinner. Since I enjoyed the previous visit in July 1997, I decided to eat at Brasserie Johanniter, on Niederdorfstrasse 70. Similar to the Bierhalle Wolf, they serve beer by the liter. As it was getting dark about 9 PM, it was the right time to have a liter of dark Hürlimann with dinner. I think I had the Appenzeller Spätzli, that comes with ham, caramelized onions and the Emmentaler/Gruyère blend, that gives such an awesome flavor, too difficult to describe. And on the radio, I listened to Die Fantastische Vier "Tag am Meer", Goldie "Dragonfly" and Papa Dee "I'd rather be with you" trip hop remix. Really trippy music for a Friday night, huh? As for Swiss cuisine, Spätzli are good, but I have since gone on to enjoy other delicacies, such as the Zürcher Geschnetzeltes (red-meat stroganoff with a side of hash browns), Cordon Bleu and very fine Cervelat bratwursts. Rösti, or, hash browns can be a meal in themselves. It depends on what ingredients are used. You might have seen the photo of my lunch on 2nd February 2018 to give you an idea.
Going back to the hostel, I took the tram line 7 from Central to Morgental, and the bus to just outside the hostel. The Zürich hostel has had neither in July 1998 nor December 2016, any noticeable curfew. You need to be quiet going to your room and your bed, particularly if you are on the top bunk. I did my best. I needed to be out of the hostel at 7:30 AM the next morning so I could catch my train to Chiasso in the Ticino.
On this day, there is likely more that I could tell, but I think for now, you may have enough information for Friday 24 July 1998. The next couple of days will be a challenge, and there even will be different language barrier, but they will all amount to such interesting stories to tell later on. Hope you enjoyed this day, there are two more for the weekend.
Arrivederci (until we see each other again) e a domani, ciao!