#burdastyle 082019

[professorpski]

BurdaStyle Retro Jacquard Dress 08/2019 #121

They call this party dress retro which could be any decade,  but I say it’s inspired by the 1950s if not copied directly. First, because the sheath became the dress of the mid-1950s. Although we tend to think of the small waist and the large skirt as the 1950s look, it wasn’t the only one out there. Second, the sheath dress of the 1950s always had a detailed neckline like this one. Notice they used a brocade, a good choice as it has some body to it, and can handle pressure of a tight fit and the boning in the bodice which helps it keep its shape. It is lined as well.

This dress uses seams and pleats instead of darts to fit the bodice to the body, then it is fitted at the waist and has a tapered skirt. If the latter hampers your stride, consider getting rid of the kickpleat and putting in a godet in the same place instead, i.e. a piece shaped like a slice of pie. I have done this with multiple dreses and it works nicely for me. You need to consider that the godet’s seams will be on the bias and adjust accordingly.

This is a pattern you download as a pdf and it doesn’t have any seam allowances, so keep that in mind. You can find it here:

https://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/retro-jacquard-dress-082019--2

[professorpski]

They Call It “Cool” -- 80s Style Shirt 08/2019 #117A

So, the 1980s are now far enough away that they make for retro wear. Since I lived through that era, I am happy to say that the enormous shoulder pads have not been brought back, although we do see the the dropped shoulders of that era. Here we have it done up in silk knit which is very drapey, so even with the dolman sleeves, this top will fall close to the body. Fine rayon or bamboo knits will drape the same way. Notice too that the sleeves are shirred with elastic into cuffs. Otherwise it is a simple style, and you could just make simple turn back hem on the sleeve with with a single elastic hidden within it if you don’t feel up to shirring. 

This is available as a pdf, and the pattern pieces come without seam allowance, so remember to add them before you cut. You can find it here: https://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/80s-style-shirt-082019

[professorpski]

The Smock Lives, or BurdaStyle Gathered Blouse 08/2019 #102

In a print, you can’t see exactly what this blouse is doing, but take a look at the sketch and you’ll see why it reminded me of the smocks that both women and me wore when doing dirty work from painting portraits in the late 19th Century to housework through the mid-20th Century. Loose and flare, they made it easy to move and get work done. If you were ever asked to take one of your dad’s old shirts to grade school and wear it for messy art and glue projects, you have the idea. Obviously, for look of a smock that you could also wear as a lightweight jacket, you want to size up a bit. Choose a larger size than you would for a blouse, and you don’t want a soft rayon or silk, but a heavier cotton or even a mid-weight wool. And then you could add jaunty patch pockets and be ready for a brisk fall day.  If you want to keep this a blouse, consider taking in the lower end of the side seams as you will have tons of fabric to tuck in at the waistline with so much flare. Or, keep the flare, consider lengthening it and wear it with leggings. In short, lots of options.

This is a good pattern for a beginner too. As the sleeves are raglan, you avoid the care you must taken when doing a set-in sleeve. This is a Burda pattern, so there are no seam allowances and you must add them to the pattern pieces after you.

To purchase this as a pdf  here: https://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/gathered-blouse-082019