Coty powder compact designed by Leon Bakst, Made by Coty Inc in Paris, France, 1935-1955.
The founder, Francois Coty believed the aesthetics of the packaging to be as important as the product. After his successful artistic partnership with designer Rene Lalique in the early 20th century, Coty approached Leon Bakst to design the Air Spun powder box. Leon Bakst is celebrated for his colourful exotic costumes and decors created for the Ballet Russes, which prompted new fashions in dress and interior decoration. This colourful, exotic aesthetic can be seen in the design of the powder box, where fluffy white powder puffs with black and gold handles float against an orange and gold background. Bakst’s original powder box design was made of Moroccan leather with gold leaf embossing. However, these boxes were expensive to manufacture and Coty paid his customers to return them when empty. They were then sent to Japan where the gold leaf would be scraped off and then reused. Bakst’s design was later modified into a cheaper cardboard version by Coty’s commercial artist Georges Draeger. The design of the packaging created an impression of luxury and prestige, while still being mass produced. These ‘luxury’ items were made even more accessible to middle and working class women by packaging them in small quantities and creating gift sets and co-ordinating product lines. Coty Air Spun powder was very successful, selling in Europe, North and South America, Australia and Asia. It was so popular in Asia that the ‘Rachel’ colour was created specifically for Asian skin tones. Coty is an internationally renowned beauty product and fragrance company that was founded in Paris in 1904 by François Coty. The company was acquired by the fragrance division of Unilever in 2005. In 2010 Coty had it’s headquarters in New York City and had become the world’s largest manufacturer of mass-market fragrances, aligning many of its new fragrances with celebrities like Sarah Jessica Parker, David and Victoria Beckham, Jennifer Lopez and Calvin Klein. Alysha Buss, Curatorial volunteer with Anne-Marie Van de Ven, Curator, February 2011 Reference: Toledano, Roulhac B. and Coty, Elizabeth Z., ‘Francois Coty: Fragrance, Power, Money’, Pelican Publishing Company Inc, Gretna, Louisiana, 2009
Powerhouse Museum Collection.