Apr 13, 2018
Cruellest dream, reality
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Cruellest dream, reality
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What Happened When I Confronted My Cruellest Troll
Trolls are frustrating, cruel and frightening creatures of the internet deep. But something surprising happens when one writer tries to deal with the worst of hers: He turns out to have a conscience. Lindy West | The Guardian | Feb 2015 [Full Story]
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New Post has been published on News World Today
New Post has been published on http://newsworldtoday.net/ortolans-could-frances-cruellest-food-be-back-on-the-menu/
Ortolans: could France's cruellest food be back on the menu?





 

 The tiny ortolan songbird is eaten whole in south-west France Photo: ALAMY






 
 
 
Q. What is an ortolan?
A. A songbird that is modest adequate to match into the palm of your hand, the typical ortolan weighs less than an ounce. They are neither really fairly nor particularly musical, but they are rare, specially in Britain, where they are only sometimes spotted on the south coast. They are generally identified in warm parts of Europe, specifically the south of France, Italy, Spain and Greece. They eat insects in summer, and grains and seeds from the ground at other times.
Q. Why are they in the news?
A. A clutch of major French chefs, including Alain Ducasse, who has 18 Michelin stars in total across his several restaurants, has lobbied the French Government to partially reverse the ban on killing and cooking ortolans, Le Parisien newspaper has reported. They say they want the appropriate to cook the bird, even if it is only for one weekend of the year.

Alain Ducasse has been a fan of cooking ortolans given that the 1990s
Q. Why is it illegal to kill and cook an ortolan?
A. The RSPB lists their status as vulnerable. And throughout the 1970s and 1980s, numbers in France declined significantly, as poachers caught vast numbers to provide restaurants, exactly where the bird has lengthy been regarded a uncommon and costly delicacy. Some restaurants would charge well more than £50 for the dish. France’s League for the Protection of Birds claimed ortolan numbers plunged 30 per cent between 1997 and 2007, with as several as 1,500 poachers catching an estimated 30,000 live birds a year in the south-western Aquitaine area. In 2007, the French Government vowed to strictly enforce some current rules about banning the practice, with the maximum fine set at €6,000 (£4,800). Killing and cooking ortolans is banned across the EU.
Q. Is the controversy just due to the fact the birds are uncommon?
A. No. The approach of capture and killing is, to a lot of folks, pretty cruel. You can’t shoot a tiny songbird out of the sky without having destroying it and producing it inedible. So, hunters catch the birds utilizing traps set in fields throughout their migratory season (when they fly to Africa). They are then kept in cages (and sometimes in black boxes to disorientate them), encouraging them to gorge on grain in order to double their size. It is stated that Roman Emperors stabbed out their eyes in order to make the birds consider it was evening, generating them consume even far more.
Q. And how are they killed?
A. This is exactly where the squeamish require to appear away. Traditionally in France, the fattened little birds are drowned in a vat of Armagnac – managing to snuff out their life and marinate them at the exact same time. Killing two birds with one particular glug, as it had been. French chefs argue that “it really is not a negative way to die”. Properly, I suppose it may possibly be much less cruel than throwing a reside lobster into a pot of boiling water, and probably significantly less cruel than force-feeding a goose in order to fatten up their livers into foie gras.
A dead ortolan
Some French chefs argue that the British eat woodcock, which is practically as small, with no any qualms. But woodcock is wild and shot usually throughout a pheasant shoot, not trapped. Woodcock is sometimes found on the menu of St John restaurant in London, well-known for pioneering ‘nose to tail’ consuming.
Q. How do you eat such a tiny bird?
A. The French do themselves no favours. There is a ritual to consuming an ortolan: diners cover their head in a huge napkin. They then pop the complete bird into their mouth and eat everything save the feet, crunching the bones as they go. The napkin is partly to hold in all the aromas of the dish, partly to disguise you getting to spit out some of the larger bones. But, largely, since diners wish to hide the shame of consuming such a gorgeous creature from the eyes of God.
Q. Does it taste good?
A. Those who have eaten them rave about the hazelnut flavour, mixed with the rich gamey hit you get from consuming the liver, heart and internal organs of the bird. One particular fan is Jeremy Clarkson, who ate one particular throughout his ‘Meet the Neighbours’ series in 2002, where he travelled around Europe.
Jeremy Clarkson tucking into ortolan in 2002, following the EU ban came into force
“It really is truly good. It is great, fantastic,” he said in raptures, just before quipping that he anticipated a record number of complaints to be sent into the BBC about the incident. He stressed he never paid for the bird, and the cook had in no way paid anybody to catch it, so no laws had been broken. In theory consuming the bird is not illegal.
Q. Any other celebrity endorsers of ortolan?
President Mitterrand, glutton extraordinaire, opening the Channel Tunnel with the Queen
A. Proust wrote about consuming ortolans. But the most popular of all was President Mitterrand, who on his death bed demanded ortolans on New Year’s Eve 1995. The story of President Mitterrand’s gluttonous final meal (very first revealed by the chef himself in an post for Esquire), even managed to shock a nation who think us Brits are sentimental animal lovers for turning noses up at horse meat.
Mitterrand, with just eight days to go just before he died from protate cancer, began his last supper with 30 neighborhood Marennes oysters, foie gras and capon, washed down with Sauternes and regional red wine, just before moving on to not just 1, but two ortolans. It is said he died a pleased man.

 

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