Matthew Orawski has spent the past 18 months working at Del Posto. In his time here he introduced innovative educational techniques that have gotten the staff much more engaged and excited about wine. He recently had to return to Canada but gave us the gift of a thoughtfully written essay reflecting his passion for Italian wine.
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Trends can be found in all aspects of life, and they often move in circles: being out of fashion one year, and coming back years later as favorable again. Wine is not excluded from this phenomenon, especially in Italy, a country that is considered one of the oldest homes of the vitus vinifera grapes. Italy is where we now see a renaissance in wine.
1861 marks the birth of Italy, but wine and winemaking has existed in this region for much longer. Until recent times, Italian wine had taken a back seat to many other countries in the world. France casts a strong shadow on most European wine. Additionally, Italy has had to battle the palates of the New World with the rise of Australian and Californian wine. After the Judgment of Paris in 1976, Californian wine proved that it has a place amongst the best in the world, while Italian wine continued to struggle to find its audience outside of local consumption.
Until nearly the 1970’s, wine making was regarded as peasant farming and not a lucrative career. As a result, many people ripped up their vines to plant olives or other fruits, or just abandoned their vines all together, but Italy has had its moments with wine trends such as Prosecco, Pinot Grigio, Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino. As the world market started to take note of these wines, so did the people who were able to make and sell them. At this point, winemakers did as most would: they took advantage of the trends and over produced the wines. This assisted in getting the attention of the world, but like all trends, it was short lived.
Even with these struggles of its history, there is no country in a better position than Italy. The wine world is changing. People are more educated and willing to experiment with their wine selections. The search for Chardonnay and Cabernet wines is being replaced with the search for rare/indigenous grapes from new regions in the world. A new generation of “Foodies” have taken over restaurants, internet reviews and blogs, and their desire for food friendly wines is a must. With wine being more accessible, the search for value is of utmost importance as the world of wine becomes increasingly expensive. Italy is in a unique position for those seeking to have the utmost connection to terroir and the history of wine.
Everyone is familiar with Prosecco and Pinot Grigio, but there are a lot of alternatives to both. Franciacorta, a small region in Lombardia, produces sparkling wines in the same traditional methods as Champagne. Using the Champagne Method, or in Italian known as Metodo Classico, Franciacorta has a depth and complexity that Prosecco cannot achieve. Alternatively, the varietals Friulano, Vermentino and Nas-cetta offer unique and competing alternatives to Pinot Grigio, while Aglianico from Taurasi, or Montepulciano from Abruzzo can rival Cabernet Sauvignon.
Although not grand in mass, Italy is a country that spans from the cool climate in the north that is influenced by the Alps, which border countries and cultures such as France, Austria and Slovenia, to the volcanic mountains of Vesuvius and Etna in the south, which are only moderated by Atlantic breezes and elevation. With 20 different regions, all producing their own indigenous grapes in 20 very different microclimates, soils and elevations, there are plenty of incredible and different wines from which to choose. Wine pairings and the use of Italian wine in tasting menus is endless: Barbera from Alba and Asti with high acid and fruit flavors of blueberries and field strawberries; Teroldego from Trentino-Alto Adige with velvety textures of plums, hints of anise and the freshness of pomegranate; Rossese from Liguria with light body and herbaceous sage and rosemary spice; Nerello Mascalese from Sicilia with blackberry notes and a hint of dried tobacco from the volcanic soils.
With all of the regions and styles, very few tend to carry with them an expensive price tag. The regions with the highest prices are the well known Barolo, Amarone della Valpolicella, Brunello di Montalcino, and Super-Tuscans. Beyond those are regions with enticing value and incredible diversity that are just waiting to be discovered. Barolo has many wine making neighbors such as Gattinara and Valtellina. Both grow the same Nebbiolo grape found in Barolo, but their regions’ wines tend to be lighter, less tannic and fresher in their youth. Around the town of Verona in the Northeast of Italy the production of Amarone della Valpolicella dominates. Amarone wines offer rich and ripe fruit coveted by the New World palate. For an alternative to these wines, the hot Southern climate of Puglia can give clusters of Primitivo such ripeness they are bound to produce velvet texture and rich red fruit tastes. Brunello di Montalcino carries with it a great name and history of important Italian producers. Wines to match the flavors and structure of Sangiovese are simply that: Sangiovese. Whether it comes in the form of Rosso di Montalcino from the same region but with a shorter aging requirement, or the nearby Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. And lastly, Super-Tuscans are a style of wine with very little restrictions on the grapes required. This freedom allows for more creativity in the vineyards and in the winemaking. One thing is for certain, the wines carry with them a reputation for being bold. Other wines that are not shy would easily be those of Umbria, and more specifically the dark, extracted and spicy wines of Sagrantino di Montefalco.
The educated wine world has also become obsessed with the ideas of terroir, which comes from Old World winemaking and exists within the stories of the families that own the vineyards. In Barolo, the idea of terroir has been understood for a long time. The differences between a Nebbiolo from the Cru of ‘Bricco dell Viole' in the commune of ‘Barolo’ on higher elevated soils of Tortonian Epoch that were formed by glaciers 7-12 million years ago and the Cru ‘Francia’ in the commune of ‘Serralunga d’Alba’ on lower level soils of Helevatian Epoch that were formed by glaciers 11-16 million years ago is tremendous, even if both hills are a short distance from each other. The ‘Viole' wine is lighter and fresher with notes of violets, crushed rock, and sour red cherries, while the ‘Francia’ wine has higher tannin and notes of dried roses, brandied cherries, tar and dried plums. Barolo Crus and the Nebbiolo grape are not that dissimilar to the wines of Burgundy. There are also regions such as Chianti who broke through to international markets decades ago but continue to evolve. The idea of Chianti Classico as a neutral Sangiovese based wine is null and void. Chianti, too, can break down into Communes and Crus. People can now see and understand that an elegant Chianti can come from the Commune of Radda, while earthy and richer styles exist just slightly south of Radda in the Commune of Castelnuovo Berardenga.
Italy is experiencing another renaissance. There truly is no other country that can rival modern Italy in accessibility of price, availability of styles, and history of vines and varieties. Regions like Barolo will please the Burgundy lover, Bolgheri will please the Bordeaux lover, and it can challenge the New World palate with Frappato from Sicilia, or Pecorino from Abruzzo. This is proven by the movement of New World producers planting Italian varieties such as Sangiovese and Nebbiolo in California, Oregon and Australia. And with this movement, yet another point is proven: you can plant Sangiovese and Nebbiolo in the New World, but they pale in comparison to the wines of Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti, Barolo, and Barbaresco. For Italy, the grapes of the region are not only important for making wine, but they represent the regions identity like the monuments that define the country itself.