Tanchoi vs Banarasi Saree: Understanding India's Handwoven Textile Heritage
A hand-woven Tanchoi saree recently made headlines and it got a lot of people asking the same question, isn't that just a Banarasi saree? Not quite. Tanchoi is actually a type of Banarasi weave, but one with its own distinct technique, history and look. If you've ever stood in front of a saree rack wondering why one Banarasi costs so much more than another or why some pieces have that unmistakable smooth, almost painted on pattern while others have a raised, textured motif this is exactly the kind of detail that explains it.
At Design Dhaga, we spend our days thinking about textile traditions like this one, because our own hand-painted sarees draw from the same deep well of Indian craftsmanship. So let's break down what actually separates a Tanchoi from a classic Banarasi and why it matters if you're buying one.
What Is a Banarasi Saree?
"Banarasi" isn't one specific weave it's a broad family of silk sarees woven in and around Varanasi (Banaras), using techniques that go back centuries, believed to have been refined under Mughal patronage. What defines a Banarasi saree is the use of fine silk, real or metallic zari (gold/silver thread), and elaborate brocade work, often inspired by Mughal motifs like florals, paisleys, and jhallar (a decorative border pattern).
Under this umbrella, you'll find several distinct sub-types, including Katan, Kadhwa, Jangla, Cutwork and Tanchoi, each with a different weaving method and finished look.
What Is a Tanchoi Saree?
Tanchoi is one of the more technically demanding weaves in the Banarasi family. Instead of using extra threads to create a raised or embossed pattern (as many Banarasi weaves do), Tanchoi uses a technique where the weft threads themselves form the design directly into the fabric resulting in a saree with almost no visible float threads on the reverse side and a smooth, dense, closely-woven surface.
The design itself is said to have originated in China and travelled to Surat via Parsi traders in the 19th century, before being adapted by Banarasi weavers into what we now know as the Banarasi Tanchoi. The motifs are usually small, repetitive florals or birds, woven in a way that gives the fabric a satin-like sheen rather than a textured, embossed feel.
Tanchoi vs Banarasi: The Key Differences
Aspect
Classic Banarasi (e.g., Kadhwa/Jangla)
Tanchoi
Weaving technique
Extra weft threads create raised motifs
Weft threads interlock to form pattern within the weave itself
Texture
Often textured, embossed feel
Smooth, satin-like finish
Reverse side
Visible float threads/loose ends
Neat, almost identical to the front
Motifs
Larger florals, paisleys, jhallar borders
Smaller, delicate repetitive florals/birds
Weaving time
Time-intensive depending on complexity
Extremely time-intensive due to precision required
In short: every Tanchoi is a Banarasi, but not every Banarasi is a Tanchoi. It's a distinction of technique, not competing origins.
How to Spot an Authentic Handwoven Piece
Whether it's a Tanchoi, a Kadhwa or any other handwoven Banarasi, a few things help separate genuine handloom work from power-loom imitations:
Check the reverse side : genuine handwoven silk shows the weave pattern clearly on the back too. (especially true for Tanchoi, where the back looks nearly identical to the front)
Feel the weight and drape : handwoven silk has a natural heaviness and fluid drape that machine-made synthetic blends don't replicate.
Look for small irregularities : a slightly imperfect motif or an uneven zari line is often a sign of human hands at work, not a flaw.
Ask about the source : genuine Banarasi weaves are still largely handwoven in and around Varanasi by artisan families, often working on traditional pit looms.
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