Indigofera australis Experiments pt. 1
Collected Indigofera australis (austral indigo) with E from ANU campus on 26th September 2021. SE Australia is in a wet rainy cycle at the moment, so many big prolific bushes in flower!
My first time using I. australis, I decided to experiment with the leaves several different ways.
Modern dye techniques often use a very alkaline dyebath for indigo, which is toxic and cannot be disposed of via domestic sewerage. In my textile practice I wish to pursue low impact methods, meaning that I want to find an alternative to the high alkaline conventional method (even though the results were stunning and a lot of fun). The next few posts will document the results of these different experiments.
I. australis contains indigotin, the same blue molecule as other Indigofera plant species from Europe and Asia, so it follows that techniques developed for other species of Indigofera might work with I. australis. I read this very useful blog documenting one dyer’s experiments using I. australis using a Japanese ‘direct’ method: https://www.gumnutmagic.com/dyeing-with-australian-indigo/
They were following the method documented here: https://www.thedogwooddyer.com/blog/2019/8/25/fresh-leaf-indigo-experiments-at-john-marshalls-studio
https://www.thedogwooddyer.com/blog/2014/9/27/fresh-leaf-indigo-dyeing
These blogs said it’s best to use the plants on the same day that they’re picked, so I rushed to complete the process before dinner! I made a delicious smoothie out of indigofera leaves, using iced water to keep things cold. I strained the leaf bits out and dipped a skein in it for a couple of minutes before exposing to air, repeating the process several times. As I understand it, the indigotin molecule needs to be exposed to oxygen to bond with fibre, so a process of dipping in a dye vat and exposing to air made sense to me.
Nothing much happened. There was no telltale colour change when the fibre was exposed to oxygen. The greenish result in the final picture washed out immediately. I’ve got several theories about this – next time i will pick the indigofera in the early morning after a period of low rainfall, and use a very high ratio of indigo leaves to fibre, at least 2:1.
I really hope I can get this process working, because it is so simple and low impact. I love that it doesn’t involve heat or amendments of any kind.