Moniomi Musing: Valentino X Esther Stewart
Earlier this week we presented you with the amazing (and amazingly young!) artist Esther Stewart, which we have been inspired by for a while. Apparently, we were not the only ones considering her our muse. When fashion powerhouse, Valentino, opened their Men’s Autumn/Winter 15 we could see Stewart’s work with optical precision. Her signature sharp silhouettes creating graphic geometrical patterns covering coats, sweaters, backpacks and even the runway itself. Geometric motifs form the essence of the collection, appearing on everything from jackets to backpacks. We dare to say that Stewart’s tendencies carried through and made their way into the Women’s Spring 2016 RTW collection- you’ll see what we are referring to when you take a look at the photos following.
The Valentino design seems to draw from the artist’s interplay of strict forms and idiosyncratic color combinations that create the illusion of space and depth. Warm and functional shades of burgundy, brown, camel, black, navy, olive and grey were balanced with radical injections of cherry red, canary yellow, sky blue and orange.
According to Wallpaper Magazine: “Chiuri and Piccioli experimented with scale and perspective, and early sketches were sent to Stewart, but it wasn't until she was flown to Paris in January this year to meet the Valentino design team and view the whole collection - from model fittings to the debut runway show at the Hotel Salomon de Rothschild - that Stewart fully grasped the extent of her influence. It incorporated set design and the show's invitations (miniature replicas of three of the chosen artworks). Her signature patterns were literally rolled out in every room of the private mansion, adorning the runway carpets throughout. Each piece in the collection was based on the composition of one selected work. Stewart was flown to Rome in July to celebrate the debut of the new David Chipperfeld-designed Valentino flagship store in Piazza di Spagna. Then it was back to her studio in the quiet country town of Daylesford, near Melbourne, to prepare for an upcoming show at the Sarah Cottier Gallery in Sydney. The working relationship with Valentino was, Stewart believes, mutually beneficial: 'Fashion is so fast-paced; introducing a slower artistic practice gives a collection a less commercial touch,' she says. 'Artist collaborations can add credibility to a brand and new ideas to play with.'”