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Orange River Project - Mokhotlong to Sehonghong

Since first thinking about riverboarding the Senqu-Orange River from source to sea, I have always said that if I can get through Lesotho alive the rest should be 'easy'. From terrain to climate to logistics, Lesotho certainly is the biggest unknown and variable in the expedition. Relatively few venture here, making it a bit of a grey area in many respects. Since leaving Mokhotlong last Tuesday morning, I have come across two new construction projects on the river that no previous paddler would've experienced... one of which, a dam, will alter the river and the future of paddling in Lesotho for good. After some time out in Mokhotlong after a taxing first week on foot, I was eager to hit the water and take the weight off my feet and back and actually get to riverboard a little... after all, I've been hauling all the gear for more than 100km (something of a record portage?). With several small tributaries having joined the Senqu and history indicating that one should be able to put in at the road bridge outside Mokhotlong, I kitted up and... started walking some more. Yip, I was lucky to find knee deep water on the odd occassion and even then it was short lived. Ankle and mid-calf waters were about as good as it got on the first day 'in' the water. Wading in shallow waters, sometimes sinking knee deep in the soft bed of silt, was tough going but I took comfort in knowing that the weight for now was off my shoulders as I had strapped my gear to the riverboard so it was semi-floating/dragging alongside me. The banks were generally still steep slopes and rocky so finding a place to sleep was a challenge. Eventually as it approached 5pm I turnec uphill and made my way to a village I spotted. Clever me though underestimated the distance and gradient and wasted a lot of energy making my way up the hill. Absolutely shattered from a draining day in the water and climbing, I was kindly taken in and spent time with a family in their hut around the fire eating 'pap' (for the foreigners, this is a traditional foodstuff prepared with maize meal). A warm night's rest and I felt fresh in the morning, but when moving the Anvil I heard a sloshing sound... my heart sank! How much water had I taken on? How had I damaged it? What would happen if it was irrepairable? Thankfully nothing serious, but I would need to keep an eye as I had done some damage during the early portage stage up Rockeries Pass enroute to the source. I made my way back down to the river and got my wetsuit on, keen to get floating myself. And, yes, I could finally float alongside the Anvil. Regularly doing the 'bump & jump' as my bum dragged on the ground and I'd 'quickly' jump to my feet to avoid damaging my wetsuit or worse, receiving a rock where I didn't want to, I edged my way along feeling a little more comfortable that I may soon be able to cljmb onboard. Every single person I passed (ranging from 5 to 50yrs) asked me for food and sweets - an annoyance for sure, as they'd keep shouting at me long after I had passed and some kids even ran along the banks insisting I stop and give them sweets. There was, however, an icy cold barrier between us... the river! Knowing a cold front was rapidly approaching and that it was a biggy (my mate Mark had a far better but not publicly acceptable description for it), I started looking for a campsite around 3pm to ensure I had sufficient time to setup. Shortly after a tributary joined up with the Senqu, I spotted some great flat ground and nice trees to use home for the night. Due to space and weight constraints, I don't have a tent with me so whipped out the tarp/poncho/groundsheet combo from First Ascent and got it prepped... using the tree, some rocks and the Anvil to secure my barrier from then inbound elements. Dinner was fired up while I got the sleeping bag & mattress organised and then, long before 6pm, it was time for dinner in bed. Yip, tough day plus early sunset plus limited power means early to bed ;) I woke to strong winds, rain and a gorgeous sunrise so stayed in bed for breakfast and just admired the ever-changing colours of the sky and clouds. But, progress needed to be made, so onward I pressed. For the first time I noticed the cold - it was stinging my nose & ears. Every gust of wind whipped up some nasty spray and lashed me across the face, no matter whether I was floating or walking. The headwinds were insane, but just as I struggled into the wind I enjoyed them at my back. Finally at a point when I could no longer squeeze the buckles on my PFD (personal floatation device or life jacket if you insist), I got out at a village and was saved by a very generous family. Huge fire raging, they assisted me to get out of my gear and dry. But, I'd been at it for too long in the day and the damage was done! No matter how long I sat at the fire and soaked my hands in warm water, six fingers refused to respond. What had I done?! I stayed at the fire as long as I could before being lead to a different hut to sleep. Gloves on, beanie on, jacket on, and every thermal item I have with me on, I climbed into my sleeping bag and lay there wondering just how bad it was. Waking in the morning, it was just a dull numbness in my fingers so pressed on as usual. By now, the river was raging at epic levels and I motored down the river at speed. Rapids raging, I was in the swing and then did something silly. Using the outside line to ensure fewer rocks and more clearance, I moved across and got caught out by a turn. It wasn't the outside line... it was a split in the river. Before I knew it, I was pinned with my back against a tree and being squashed by my board that had the full might of the river behind it. Luckily I managed to push the board away and it was quickly swept downrived. As I rolled I got the waist strap on my pack loose and ditched it, now it was just me against the tree... each breathe was joined by a few litres of water. Was this it? Had Lesotho won? Oh hell no!!! Adrenalin and fear kicked in and by some miracle I found the strength to get myself between the branches and float down the river after a few scrapes through smalled bushes. In the distance I could see all my gear floating away... leaving me with no choice but to put my head down and go for it. Webbed gloves and Scubapro Seawing Nova fins have never worked so hard and I sped after my gear. Knowing that my 'waterproof' rucksack had a small hole in it, I was just waiting for it to take on enough water and sink. Thankfully I got to it in time, but with the extra weight I slowed and the Anvil was slowly creeping further and further. And then, suddenly, it veered off to the banks and waited for me. Hooray!!! Reunited, I headed off again and ran the remaining rapids for the day with caution. Face level really is different to kayaking, as most stuff appears out of nowhere so you need to be a little quicker on the reaction time. For the first time I got out and made a hot lunch, trying desperately to save my fingers from permanent damage. I battled to light the stove, let alone get a spoon to my mouth. I was in trouble! Just one hour later I got out and headed for a village where I was welcomed by the chief and given his hut... and gained an audience of 50 kids. The chief had to step in and insist everyone leave so that I could change. Fire, hot water, and a hot meal didn't bring back sensation in my fingers. That's it, time to call for advice. After a short discussion with my medic on call, it was decided best to take two days out of the water and try keep my hands warm to see what would happen. Well, back to portage and slow progress watching the high levels rush on by. Damn, what a mental blow! After being told Sehonghong is 3hrs away, I used my Lesotho distance guide and calculated that I had 30km to town which was too far for one day. My target, Mashai Lodge... about half way from what I could find out. Wrong! It was 20km away, and on a road that makes the Himalayas seem flat. Damn! Another mental blow? But, saving my fingers is what it is all about. I reached the lodge after dark, and after being told 10km from the lodge that it is just 2km ahead. In fact, I recall someone saying at 2pm that it was 15min walk... I got there around 7pm! It is overpriced and certainly no better than a crappy backpackers but J had a vaguely warm bath and soaked my fingers before cooking dinner. A hot breakfast and the remaining 10km to Sehonghong kickstarted my day, and then as I entered Sehonghong I was approached by 'Walker'... a priest I met the day I arrived in Mokhotlong when he was in his way to a funeral. We chatted briefly and I was invited to stay at Mosiuoa (pronounced Masiwa), an elder from the church. I ventured into 'town' and am glad there were options with Walker and Mosiuoa. After cooking dinner and chatting to a local teacher, I got a good nights rest before an early rise to catch the taxi to Thaba Tseka where I am now. The clinic in Sehonghong couldn't do anything for me, so suggested I head here for assessment. Being in the early stages of the expedition, I decided it best to be cautious and get a proper medical diagnosis on my hands. The journey here was, well, eventful... as the bridge across the Senqu is covered so they've got a small aluminium boat to row people across 8 at a time. A taxi then collects people on the other side and takes them to town. The diagnosis: lack of circulation due to excessive cold has lead to nerve damage which 'should' come right with time and warmth. They have classified it as the early stages of frostbite, combined with something similar to neuropraxia (which is the stage after pins & needles but before paralysis). The suggested action: avoid cold water, soak in hot water and keep moving my fingers to stimulate blood flow. Hmmmmmm... Depending on how things go tonight and how they feel in the morning, I will either stay here another day and keep soaking them before returning to Sehonghong, or return to Sehonghong for one more night. Either way, I will portage to Tebalo / Matebe which is about 20km downriver from Sehonghong to allow an extra day of relative warmth. From them, I'll push it on the river for Qacha's Nek (well, that area) before pushing to Quthing where the team from Plastics SA are coming to visit me. In short, I am being cautious as I still have over 2000km to go... but am keen to get back in the water and run some rapids! For those wondering about schedules and timeframes, I have built in contigency form illness and injury so while 'behind' for now it will all balance out soon. I have also initiated a backup plan for SA to make up some time when I'm back across the border. Regarding gear, I am looking at options of a neoprene hood but otherwise am sticking to what I have in the water. Hope you're all well. Have a fantastic week further, chat soon