#faveghoutfits

[otherpens]

Favourite Gran Hotel Outfits:

Sofía’s Blue Daytime Suit (1905)

Sofía first wears this suit to greet her mother-in-law when she comes to visit. The suit is everyday, yet elegant. The material of the skirt and jacket is of a pale blue material with a slightly darker blue stripe throughout. It is worn over a plain white blouse, with what seem to be horizontal pin-tucks providing some adornment on its high collar.

The jacket is worn long, falling below the hips in soft flares after being tailored in at the waist. There is some light puff structure to the top of the sleeves at the shoulders, but this is not at all pronounced, and the effect is subtle. The jacket is made to be worn open at all times, with the only fastenings being cloth-covered matching buttons at the front--two on the high standing collar, closing the jacket across the throat with subtle cloth frog loops, and two at the waist, where they seem to attach the jacket to the top of the skirt on either side of the stomach, leaving the rest of the jacket open along the torso. The lapels are sewn and pressed to lie flat against the sides of the jacket, with a downward point, and the cuffs have small slashes to permit easy movement of the hands and wrists.

The skirt is full and plain, and falls to a slight sweep in the back, though the front of the hem is cut to just above the toes of the shoes, which can easily be seen. The centre-fastening belt worn with the skirt has widening points almost creating a diamond-shape, with an overall pattern of diagonal stripes in burgundy and blue.

Sofía wears cream-coloured buttoned boots with a low heel, and gold earbobs with a dangling teardrop shape and an inset design of some kind which I can’t quite make out. Her hair is twisted into a simple knot--it almost looks like a French roll--at the back of her head, (though she wears this slightly higher than Alicia wears her hair,) with some curled sections left loose about the face.

[otherpens]

Favourite Gran Hotel Outfits:

Victoria’s Brown Travel/Daytime Suit (1905)

This is actually one of my all-time favourite ensembles we see in the whole show, and it is fabulously worn by the fabulously devious Victoria, Doña Elisa’s loyal companion and attendant.

Skirt and jacket are made of a matching plainwoven pale brown material--probably linen, possibly wool. The overall effect is businesslike, but fashionablly neat and jaunty in its way. The jacket has double-pointed lapels, folded narrow collar, straight pockets with flap on each side, is fitted at the waist to flare out over the hips, and has demure mutton-chop sleeves, puffing slightly at the shoulder before tapering to the wrist, where the plain cuffs are finished by three cloth-covered buttons in the same material as skirt and jacket. Four (I think) of these same buttons, only larger, run down the left side of the jacket, with corresponding button-holes on the right, though the jacket seems to be worn open at all times, to display the fashionable belt and blouse.

Victoria’s blouse is fairly plain, though it has a vertical pattern of lace where it buttons down the front, and has a high buttoned neck, with a folded over collar in a masculine style, though she does not wear a necktie. She wears a medium-width belt in a dark brown material, fastened in the centre front with an embellished metallic/jewelled buckle.

Her skirt is shorter than most we’ve seen so far--it does not touch the ground at all, enhancing the utilitarian/sporty feel of the outfit. It gains fullness at the knee with three kick pleats set along each side, each finished with three matching cloth-covered buttons above in a decorative pattern, beginning with the largest button directly above the pleat and finishing with the smallest button at the top. The skirt is supported with at least two plain white petticoats, in cotton or linen.

She wears a hat in gold-coloured plaited straw, with a tall, flattened crown. The brim is edged with narrow, plain brown material, and the underside of the brim appears to be lined with black or dark brown fabric, which is displayed where the brim is turned up at the back and trimmed with ribbon bows. The ribbon used is brown, with a repeating pattern of flowers, and is used around the base of the crown, as well as in an arc across the front of the crown.

Her hair is worn in a Gibson-girl style, puffed out around the head and drawn into a braided knot on top. She carries a small brown leather handbag with a gilt or brass clasp, and wears ankle-high buttoned boots in brown leather with a low heel, and small single pearl earbobs.

[otherpens]

Favourite Gran Hotel Outfits:

Teresa’s Green and Black Evening Dress (1905)

Doña Teresa‘s evening dress is first seen in the flashbacks to the lighting party in the first episode, where it appears to be a bronze-y green shade under the candles and new electric lights. This scene is lit very warmly, whereas in El anonimo the recital has very cool and dark lighting, bringing out the more blue-ish dark sea-green hue of the fabric. There’s no doubt it’s the same dress, however, and as shot silk may appear to be more than one colour and shades of green are able to be lit with warm AND cool lighting (a singular feat in cinema,) I think we can accept it as green.

It is a plainly-constructed dress in silk, in keeping with Doña Teresa‘s more elegant, restrained fashion as a matriarch and fairly recent widow. It also speaks to her tastes being more old-fashioned, i.e. pre-1900 styles, in general, as we see in many of her dresses. The gown has boning in the bodice, with a slight downward point at the bottom to create a waistline, though the skirt and bodice (in the same fabric) remain seperate. The skirt is floor-length and full, with a heavy gathered train in the back. (This is somewhat visible during her opening speech at the recital as she stands by the piano in early shots, as well as when she descends the stairs following the lighting ceremony in the flashback.)

The dress has a wide collar in black lace fitted around the decolletage and over the shoulders and back of the dress, almost like a short capelet. This is fastened or splits in the centre front. The elbow-length sleeves in the same silk as the rest of the gown are finished in long, wrist-length flares of the same black lace, though these are split back to the elbow to fall away when she raises her arms.

All accessories are sedate and dark. In the flashback she wears what appears to be a jet choker with a dangling design of one large centre piece, which is repeated in miniature along the sides of the central pendant. At the recital she seems to be wearing a matching set of earbobs with a double-drop design and necklace--square-cut darker stones (emeralds or sapphires?) in a light gold setting, possibly surrounded with smaller diamonds, the necklace ending in a metallic double tassel in the centre. Her naturally curly hair is worn in its usual high knot with a slight fringe across the forehead in both scenes, and she appears to be wearing dark slippers with a low heel in the lighting party flashback.

[otherpens]

Favourite Gran Hotel Outfits:

Alicia’s Pink and Brown Outdoor Sleuthing ensemble (1905)

Alicia is seen wearing a simple white high-collared blouse which flares out over the waist (with an off-white or pale yellow belt) and a dusty rose-coloured skirt with gathers in the back, both in plain and fairly serviceable linen or cotton, it looks like. (Perhaps a light wool for the skirt, depending on the season?)

Later she puts on her everyday cloak for venturing outside, which is of a dark brown velvet material, cut to hang in softly rounded points in the front and back. It fastens at the neck with a single set of embroidered frogs in sturdy red thread and two brown buttons carved of wood or possibly horn. The cloak has a hood with a strip of wide greenish-black lace ribbon set back an inch or two from the edge. Alicia wears her pearl and gold earbobs and her cream ankle-boots to complete the outfit. Her hair is done in its usual style, and altogether it’s a comparatively sturdy ensemble for dicking around in the woods trying to track down a blackmailer and then falling off a rock because she’s trying to give chase up a mossy boulder in full skirts and kicky little high-heeled boots I’m sorry I applaud her good intentions but this was never going to end in Alicia’s favour.

Presumably a pile of petticoats and a bomb-ass cape like that cushions the fall pretty well, though.

[otherpens]

Favourite Gran Hotel Outfits:

Alicia’s Green and Black Ballgown (1905)

This dress first appears in the evening party where Alicia’s engagement is finalised and announced. It consists of a pale gold bodice and underskirt, overlaid with what appears to be pale sea-green silk gauze in the front and back, leaving the gold material visible at the sides. There is slight vertical ruching or series of pleats on the bodice to create a striped effect, and gathers in the full skirt, with a slightly sweeping train. The skirt is slashed at the hemline twice on each side to reveal the gold underskirt material and some dark green or black fringe work.

The bodice is overlaid with sheer scalloped black lace work, with a narrower band along the decolletage and back of the scooped collar, and Vs of wider material covering the shoulders and creating scalloped points in the front and back, covered by a belt of silk or satin in a slightly darker shade of the green which has a slight downward point in the front, and an offset fastening in the back.

Alicia’s hair is unchanged from her earlier scenes, however now it has two ornaments pinned to it on the left side at the back--both seem to be flowers made of a mixture of silk and feathers, one in dark green and black, and one in white. The white is pinned lower in her hair while the green/black is pinned directly behind her left ear. She wears round gold earbobs and Diego later places an engagement ring on her left hand, which looks to be a large pearl in what may be a setting of smaller gems--possibly diamonds. She wears elbow-length white silk gloves earlier in the evening, but removes these before dinner and does not replace them, possibly due to the size of her new ring. She appears to have on cream-coloured shoes with a low heel, but it’s not indicated if these are the same boots as she wore earlier, or slippers more suited to eveningwear.

[otherpens]

Favourite Gran Hotel Outfits:

Alicia’s White & Pink Travel Ensemble (1905)

Alicia’s travel/daytime outfit in the first episode consists of a matching skirt and belted jacket of white material with a pale pink stripe throughout. A pattern of darker pink or red circular marks is picked out in lines along the back of the belt, the collar, the wrist-length cuffs, and the skirt, which brushes the tops of her toes. The lines run in double parallel on the right-hand side of the jacket’s opening, around both cuffs, and in two lines down the back which stop a few inches short of meeting the belt at the waist, and around the back of the skirt, (which has tucks and gathers at the back to create a fuller portion in the back, with a small train,) with the front panel left plain.

The jacket’s edges are decorated with frogs embroidered in white. (These appear to be merely decorative in a highly-feminised military style.) The belt fastens in the front, with a pointed edge detail on the right side and possibly some metallic embellishment in the fastening clip or button. She wears a high-collared lace blouse underneath her jacket, with a ruffle running beneath the sheer upper portion of the blouse, and two ruffles running down the centre of the bodice.

She wears gold earbobs set with single pearls, wrist-length gloves in white lace or net, buttoned high-top ankle boots in cream-coloured leather with a low heel, and carries a drawstring bag in an off-white material with a dark pink or red fabric flower sewn or embroidered on. She also wears a round hat in light gold plaited straw, with a low, flattened crown, trimmed around with pink and pale yellow ribbons tied into a bow at the back, the ribbon-ends left to hang loose, and flowers in the same colours pinned at the front right, over the ribbon. The hat is worn angled downward over the left side of her forehead. Alicia’s hair is rolled into a plaited chignon worn low on the back of her neck, with several strands about the face left loose.