WINE DIARY: OLD VINES RESTAURANT AT QUAILS GATE
In my culinary journey enjoying pub grub and food truck fare, I will occasionally empty the wallet on a stylish meal in an upmarket restaurant. Though not often, maybe once every four months or so. On our vacation through the Okanagan, I was an idiot and blindly passed the credit card on more than one occasion. Burrowing Owl, Tinhorn Creek, Hillside, Poplar Grove—we loved eating at winery restaurants, and none of them were cheap. However, among all of them, the preeminent location, the one with the best food matched with the best view and service by a measurable margin was the Old Vines Restaurant at Quails Gate.
We had visited the winery on our previous wine trip a year prior and loaded up on a box of wine (not a box-o-wine, a box of bottles of wine). But on this trip, we only picked up a few varietals and opted for the dinner instead. It was only due to car space; we were on the last legs of our journey—over seven days, we had picked up 120 bottles from 60 locations. There wasn’t much room left save for our stomachs. The debit had been nearly tapped clean. But this was a vacation.
Old Vines shares a few qualities with Mission Hill up the road. Both take as much pride in their view than in their food, and despite Quails Gate being a slightly restrained experience in comparison, I found Old Vines to be equally as rewarding. We strode past the indoor dining area, past the bar, outside where everyone else was sitting. There were no Greek pillars or stone gazebos, just numerous traditional umbrellas shadowing glass tables. All of it was fringed by flowers, stone paths, and matching the mustard tones carried by the winery. Beyond the roses lay the vineyard open for walking (which we did so after our meal). Truly one of the most spectacular views a restaurant could ever hope to have, in many ways even better than their competition up the road. I would say only Bench 1775 in Naramata has the better view, but only marginally.
All that splendor comes with a price, and you can see it plain as day on the menu. The cheapest appetizer was $15. The cheapest main was $24. I wouldn’t call that extremely expensive (I had Castle Terrace in Edinburgh that was $300 for two people), but couple that with wine, and the bill will get up there. This is the kind of place that shapes their butter pats into roses; it’s not a tavern. Don’t come here on a budget—order what you want and let them indulge you with their cuisine. I made that abundantly clear from the onset when I opened with the Foie Gras Torchon (with marigold, peach, and cocoa nib). My girlfriend had the Rangeland Bison Tartare (with purified white rice, cured yolk, and pickled carrot). And then truffle and parmesan fries arrived…because they always do. Don’t get me wrong, they’re amazing, but it’s started to get a little cliched that these top end bistros are all serving truffle and parmesan fries. It’s like going to a Lexus dealership and someone proudly throwing you keys to a Toyota Camry.
The meal was fantastic, and we left satisfied, taking our time to wander the fields and view that sunset.
There’s not much else to add really. I can’t go into specific details on the dishes as the menu has almost completely changed since last there. What we did have was an incredible experience in an incredible restaurant worth a revisit. We don’t have the kind of funds to make Old Vines a tradition, especially given we live nowhere near them, but will keep the memories forever…or at least until we get dementia and/or die.