#general_flower_care

[shelyold]

Have you ever wondered why some plants bloom in the spring, in the summer, and others during the fall? Or why certain species even flower in the dead of winter (thank you, hellebores!)? Have you ever mused about what would happen if you took a spring flowering plant in the northern hemisphere and moved it to the southern hemisphere? Would it keep blooming at the same time of year now that spring has become autumn? Perhaps you are curious about why you can never get your lettuce to keep growing through the summer, even when the temperatures are sufficiently cool. If any of these questions have ever crossed your mind, you’re pondering a phenomenon known as photoperiodism. Photoperiodism influences both plants and animals. It’s the reason that hummingbirds breed and migrate when they do and why hostas send up their flower stalks in early summer rather than the fall. Isn’t nature cool? If you’re curious about this process and want to know more about it and even how you can manipulate photoperiodism to your advantage, here’s what we’ll go over: What Is Photoperiodism? In a nutshell, photoperiodism refers to the response of a plant or animal to the amount of sunlight and darkness that it is exposed to. As you have probably noticed, the days grow longer during the spring and shorter during the fall. The shortest day of the year is in early winter, December 21 in the Northern Hemisphere and June 21 in the Southern Hemisphere. But plants don’t have calendars. They use light, among other environmental conditions like temperature, to tell them when it’s the right time of year to start the growth or flower cycle. That’s where photoperiodism comes in. When the days are long and the nights are short, some species are triggered to start flowering. Technically, it’s the length of darkness that triggers this growth. The amount of daylight – or lack of it – is what can signal to a plant that they should hurry up and start reproducing via flowering. Scientists believe it’s to ensure that plants will be blooming when the necessary pollinators are around. It also helps ensure that the plant sends out blossoms during the time of year when they won’t be killed by extreme temperatures. As an aside, researchers and botanists are concerned that some plants aren’t adapting their photoperiods to go along with the lengthening of the seasons that is occurring as a result of climate change. Since daylight hours aren’t changing even though the temperatures are, plants might end up flowering at a time of year when their primary pollinators aren’t around. That’s because insects and other pollinators are adjusting to accommodate the climate as spring starts earlier and the fall starts later in many areas. So a bee might emerge and start feeding weeks earlier than it used to, and not be around when the plant that needs it for pollination is in bloom. Can You Manipulate It? You betcha! Greenhouse and houseplant growers manipulate photoperiods all the time. It can be done to speed up maturation for harvest, encourage flowering outside of their typical period, and more. For these purposes, artificial light is close enough to sunlight to convince plants that it’s time to start blossoming. To simulate longer nights, growers use black cloth to block light. Generally, you want to increase the “daylight” gradually rather than just doing it all at once. I have forced plants using this method when I want to have a specimen ready for a teaching opportunity, to get a headstart on the growing season, and to have food growing during the winter. So it isn’t just professional growers who can take advantage of manipulating day length. The Five Categories For ease of communication, we group photoperiodism into five categories: 1. Obligate Long-Day Obligate (or qualitative) long-day plants require long day lengths and short nights to flower. In other words, they won’t flower at all if the days aren’t long and the nights short. Any plant that only blooms when the days are longer than the nights are in this category. If I were a plant, this is where you’d group me, too. Bachelor’s buttons (Centaurea spp.), dill (Anethum graveolens), fuchsia (Fuchsia spp.), and sweet pea (Lathyrus spp.) are some examples of obligate long-day species. 2. Facultative Long-Day Facultative long-day plants prefer long days and short nights. But unlike obligate long-day types, they will still flower no matter what. They’ll just flower earlier in the year if they have the daylight conditions they prefer. Examples of species in this category include African daisy (Dimorphothica spp.), basil (Ocimum basilicum), pansy (Viola spp.), and snapdragon (Antirrhinum spp.). 3. Obligate Short-Day Obligate short-day plants are the opposite of obligate long-day plants. They only flower when the nights are longer than the day. When the nights are over 12 hours long, that’s when they shine. Obligate short-day species include African marigold (Tagetes erecta), cosmos (Cosmos spp.), holiday cacti (Schlumbergera spp.), and zinnia (Zinnia spp.). 4. Facultative Short-Day Facultative short-day plants can flower regardless of the daylight, but they will flower earlier when the days are short and nights are long. This category encompasses species like cotton (Gossypium spp.), soybeans (Glycine max), and rice (Oryza spp.). 5. Day-Neutral Then there is the day-neutral category. As the name suggests, these are plants that couldn’t care less about what the daylight hours are doing, provided they have enough sun exposure, which varies according to species. Begonia (Begonia spp.), cucumber (Cucumis sativus), dianthus (Dianthus spp.), impatiens (Impatiens spp.), and tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) are some examples of day-neutral species. The vast majority of herbaceous annuals have photoperiod requirements, while a bit over half of woody perennials do. If a plant flowers only in the spring or fall, there’s a good chance that it isn’t day-neutral. Most of the time, all species within a genus share the same photoperiod requirements, but there can be one-offs or exceptions. And researchers aren’t always certain about how to classify every plant. For example, French marigolds are day-neutral, but some cultivars, such as ‘Naughty Marietta’ aren’t. This particular cultivar is facultative short-day. African marigolds are usually considered obligate short-day, but some experts say that they’re facultative short-day. Within these groups, we generally say that a plant that needs 12 hours or more of daylight to flower is a long-day plant. What can we say, botany isn’t an exact science. So, to go back to lettuce bolting, lettuce is a facultative long-day plant. That’s why it will send up those tall stalks once the summer arrives. It’s not just about heat, the longer days are signaling that it should start the reproductive process. See the Light All gardeners know that light has a big impact on our plants. That’s why most of us would never try to grow a tomato in a spot where it only receives about an hour of direct sunlight! We all know it just wouldn’t work. But most of us don’t think about the length of the day and night when growing our favorite flowers, houseplants or vegetables. That’s because most of our growing endeavors line up with our growing seasons, but if you want to be able to manipulate or understand why your plant is acting the way it is, understanding photoperiodism is key. Are you interested in photoperiodism? Are you trying to make your Christmas cactus bloom perhaps? Or maybe you heard the term and you’re curious about what it means? Let us know in the comments section below! If you’d like to learn some other botany basics, we have several guides that might be just the thing. Here are a few you might find useful: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. 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[tameblog]

It’s easy to get caught up in the splash and flash of annuals. They’re usually in bloom when you go to the nursery. And their siren’s song of color, form, and fragrance has a mighty appeal for the garden junkie. But for enduring performance and outstanding value, perennials are where it’s at. Somewhat more reserved in character, they don’t always have the same immediate visual impact that the strutting annuals do. And even after you’ve planted them, it may still take a year or two before they put on a full display. However, once established, they are easy to grow, reliable, and low maintenance. Plus, most of them can be divided into new plants – making them cost-effective as well. In this article, we’ll cover the reasons why we should divide perennials, when to do so, how to do it, and which plants are best suited for division. Let’s dig in! Divide and Prosper Once they’ve become established in a happy spot, perennials are adherents of Mr. Spock’s mantra to “live long and prosper” – and the occasional splitting of the host plant will help them to do just that. Here are five reasons why: 1. Keep Excessive Growth in Check We love the robust growth habits that are a key characteristic of these long-living plants. However, vigorous growth can also make them unmanageable in terms of size, shape, and spread. Portioning a clump of plants will help to keep their size manageable, while retaining all of their vitality and display qualities. When left unchecked, a plant will continue to grow and spread. Unfortunately, as the roots spread outward this can result in the center dying out, which leaves an ugly bare patch. With regular division, dead materials are removed, and replanted sections are healthy, centered, and energized. 2. Plant Protection Splitting plants is also a good way to protect them from pests, like insects and fungal disease. Lifting them out of the soil will expose any grubs or larvae that may be destroying the roots. And portioning is the most effective way to curtail any infections above ground. Simply cut out and remove the affected areas until you’re left with only healthy growth. 3. Performance and Productivity The number and size of blossoms and seed heads is one of the first characteristics to suffer when a mature plant becomes overcrowded. Overall performance will suffer as well, with maladies like stunted growth and a general lack of vitality being common problems. A happy post-division meadowsweet plant. Photo by Lorna Kring. When they’re too crowded, flowering perennials will often produce fewer and smaller blossoms in order to conserve energy. The same is true of ornamental grasses whose seed heads and plumes are valued for their visual appeal. Roots that have become cramped can’t access the nutrients and moisture needed to flourish, and the soil that is available will soon become depleted. Splitting up clumps of perennials will ensure they receive proper nutrition for the best possible display. 4. Keep the Neighbors Happy Vigorous growers can take up more than their fair share of space, sunlight, water, and nutrients, depriving their nearby neighbors. This unequal consumption of resources can crowd out, overshadow, or simply overwhelm smaller or newer plants. The occasional splitting of the most vigorous or aggressive growers will keep all the plants on the block happy and healthy by allowing equal access to food and water. 5. Proliferation for a Polished Look The ability to easily propagate new plants by root division makes many perennials very cost-effective. Plus, plants that are split in this manner will still put on a nice performance in the same growing season. You can quickly build an attractive gardenscape by placing new divisions of the same plant throughout the garden. Dividing and transplanting multiples of the parent plant is an economical and natural way to enhance the design principles of harmony, line, balance, and repetition – and gives a professional, polished look to your plantings. And of course, potted divisions always make a wonderful gift for the gardening enthusiast, or as a contribution to community plant sales. When to Divide Digging up and cutting into root balls is stressful for plants, so you want to perform this process when they can recover as quickly and easily as possible. Split iris rhizomes when they’re 2-5 years old. The ideal conditions are when the soil is cool and moist, and the air is warm – which usually means spring and autumn. This will allow divisions the necessary time to settle into their new environment and establish a strong root system. There are exceptions of course, like the bearded iris, which should be divided in summer (see Rhizomes and Tubers below). But spring and fall work best for most perennials. If possible, divide perennials on a cloudy day, and when a few days of light rain are in the immediate forecast. As a general rule of thumb, spring and summer bloomers are best divided in the fall, and fall-blooming perennials should be split up in the spring. Spring transplants should go into the ground several weeks before the hot weather arrives. And for fall transplants, planting can continue until 6-8 weeks before the first frost. This is to allow the roots to become established before the extreme temperatures of summer and winter set in. Remember: never split a plant when it’s flowering. You want all of its energy to be directed into the leaves and roots for a robust foundation. If you must divide in the summer, avoid the midday heat and split your perennials in the early morning or late afternoon. Ensure that the new holes where you will place the roots have been thoroughly soaked before transplanting. Keep the plants well-watered until they’ve had a chance to recover. This can take anywhere from several days to a couple of weeks. You also want to ensure that your plants are large enough to create at least three or four new clumps before splitting. Portioning them too early will result in small plants that underperform, and may be too much of a shock to recover from if they haven’t reached full maturity. Potted perennials can usually grow for 2-3 years before they need to be split and repotted, while those in the ground can often grow for 3-5 years before they need to be split. Prepare New Locations Before you actually dig up any plants, a little prep work is needed. Your divided perennials are going to need new homes to inhabit, and it’s always prudent to prepare this area before the old plant is removed. Photo by Lorna Kring. First, determine the location(s) for your new plants and prepare the soil. The new hole should be twice as wide as the width of the root ball that will reside there, but no deeper than the original height of the root size from base to crown. To give your plants the best chance for success, I suggest digging deeper by 6-12 inches (depending on the plant’s size), then refilling the hole with amended soil to the height required for planting. Double digging in this manner loosens up the soil below the root ball, which allows the roots to grow straight down rather than spreading sideways. Deep roots will stay cooler in the summer heat, and have access to deeper reserves of moisture and nutrients – which means less watering and fertilizing for you! Amend all of the soil that you have removed by mixing in some organic material such as compost, worm castings, or well-rotted manure at about 25 percent of the volume. It’s also helpful to add in another 20-25 percent of moisture-retaining material such as perlite, vermiculite, sphagnum moss, or peat. Or, if your area gets an abundance of water and you have silt soil, mix in 20-25 percent builders’ sand to improve drainage. Note: DO NOT add sand to clay based soils as they can become hard as concrete when dry. Finally, mix in some bone meal to help with new root growth. If your plants are going into containers, ensure that the planters have drainage holes and a layer of drainage material on the bottom. Then add the above soil mixture to the proper height for planting. Once your soil has been prepared, it’s time to remove the old plant. Digging In Regardless of when you split a clump, your task will go much easier if the soil is well-moistened. If the rains haven’t cooperated, you’ll want to water thoroughly for a couple of days prior to digging. Your work will be a lot easier and less stressful on your plants if the soil is moist, but not saturated. (Bonus: gardening can help to reduce your stress levels as well!). Photo by Lorna Kring. The first step is to establish the drip line. This is the outer reach of the foliage and flowers when in full bloom from the center of the crown. The drip line is approximately how far the roots will extend, and it’s a good guideline for digging. To isolate the clump, step a pointed shovel deeply into the soil all the way around the drip line. Next, insert the shovel on a deep diagonal from the drip line, under the root ball. Do this at 4-8 equally spaced points around the drip line to keep the root system intact. Once the root ball has been loosened, lever the shovel a few times to ensure all the roots are released. Position the root ball on the shovel and lift it out, keeping everything as intact as possible. To make it easier to separate the clump, gently shake or brush off any excess soil. Separate and Replant Some crowns can be separated by pulling apart with your hands, while others will need to be cut apart. Depending on the size of the root ball you’re working with, the best tools for thick, tangled roots – like those of ornamental grasses – are a hori hori, a folding garden saw, or even a sharp shovel. Photo by Lorna Kring. If your root mass is very tightly compacted, lift it in the air a few feet, then drop it on the ground. This will loosen the roots, making them easier to divide. However, you’ll want to avoid this method on plants with brittle roots, such as peonies. Pry apart or cut each clump into quarters or thirds, ensuring that each new plant has a healthy root network, plus leaves. To reduce shock and prevent roots from drying out, replant the divisions pronto. If your plants can’t go into their new home immediately, heel them in the garden until you’re ready to plant. To heel plants, loosen some soil and lay plants on the ground, nestling the roots into the loose soil – half to three quarters of the root mass if possible. Then pile soil loosely on top of the remaining root ball to cover. Water gently, but avoid overhead watering as it will wash away the loose soil. Heeling in this manner helps to keep roots cool, and prevents them from drying out until they can go into the ground. It also protects plants from getting knocked over and other accidental damage while waiting for a permanent home. Plant at the same depth as the root ball, then gather the soil in. Firm the soil around the roots to securely position new plants, but don’t hard-pack. Water gently but thoroughly to settle in place. Then cover with a two-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and protect plants as they become established. Which Perennials Should Be Divided? In general, plants with soft, green stems that form clumps or spread by runners are suitable for root division. Here’s a partial list of some common ones that fit the bill: Bleeding hearts and peonies also belong to the list, but they rarely require splitting. Some soft-stemmed perennial herbs can also be propagated this way, such as: … And Which Ones Shouldn’t Of course, there are always those plants that fit the general description, but will sulk if you try to divide them. Here are some of the rebels: Columbines, euphorbias, hellebores, and lupines all self-seed easily, so look for seedlings at their base – these are much easier to transplant. Many herbs also seem suitable, but they are actually small, woody shrubs, and better suited to propagation through stem cuttings or from seed. Avoid trying to divide herbs like: Instead of dividing, these woody herbs will often form rooted layers that form when branches from the parent plant touch the soil and develop their own roots. These can be cut away from the host plant with a sharp knife, then transplanted in the same manner as divisions. Rhizomes and Tubers Rhizomes and tubers are perennials, and they do form clumps of growth that benefit from occasionally being split. But due to their unique root structure, they need to be handled differently than many other plants. A dahlia plant has been lifted out of the ground in preparation for division. Rhizomes are thick, fleshy stems that grow horizontally at, or just above, the soil level. In tropical regions, ornamental ginger is a common garden rhizome. And in temperate zones, the bearded iris is well-known. These dahlia tubers are overgrown and in need of division. Photo by Lorna Kring. These rhizomes should be divided in the summer, or after flowering while they rest – about a month or so after the last flowers have finished, but 4-6 weeks before the first frost. Split rhizomes when they’re 2-5 years old. Remove them from the soil, then cut or break apart in sections 3-5 inches long. Discard any old pieces or sections that are soft, mushy, or powdery. Each new section should have roots and one fan of green leaves, which can be trimmed back to 3 inches. Replant in loose, friable soil that’s been amended with organic material, with just the top of the rhizome peeking above soil level. For tuberous roots, like dahlias, tubers should be separated in the spring before planting, or in the fall before storing. Cut the tubers apart with a sharp knife – one with a straight edge, not a serrated one. Each new tuber needs a section of the original stem, and a bulbous growth bud or “eye.” Plant tubers 6-8 inches deep in loose soil amended with organic material, with the eye pointing upwards. Long-Lasting Beauty As you can see, there are plenty of good reasons to divide your perennials – they’ll thrive with renewed growth and vigor, and your entire garden will benefit from this one simple task! To recap, there are two important points to remember: 1. Most perennials are best suited for division in the spring or fall. 2. Prepare new homes for them first, then remove, divide, and replant. With just a little bit of care and maintenance, your perennial gardens will provide long-lasting beauty and a healthy, unified appearance in the garden for many years to come. Do you readers have any thoughts on the subject? Let us know in the comments below! Photos by Lorna Kring © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published May 11th, 2017. Last updated: May 9th, 2025. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[ramestoryworld]

It’s easy to get caught up in the splash and flash of annuals. They’re usually in bloom when you go to the nursery. And their siren’s song of color, form, and fragrance has a mighty appeal for the garden junkie. But for enduring performance and outstanding value, perennials are where it’s at. Somewhat more reserved in character, they don’t always have the same immediate visual impact that the strutting annuals do. And even after you’ve planted them, it may still take a year or two before they put on a full display. However, once established, they are easy to grow, reliable, and low maintenance. Plus, most of them can be divided into new plants – making them cost-effective as well. In this article, we’ll cover the reasons why we should divide perennials, when to do so, how to do it, and which plants are best suited for division. Let’s dig in! Divide and Prosper Once they’ve become established in a happy spot, perennials are adherents of Mr. Spock’s mantra to “live long and prosper” – and the occasional splitting of the host plant will help them to do just that. Here are five reasons why: 1. Keep Excessive Growth in Check We love the robust growth habits that are a key characteristic of these long-living plants. However, vigorous growth can also make them unmanageable in terms of size, shape, and spread. Portioning a clump of plants will help to keep their size manageable, while retaining all of their vitality and display qualities. When left unchecked, a plant will continue to grow and spread. Unfortunately, as the roots spread outward this can result in the center dying out, which leaves an ugly bare patch. With regular division, dead materials are removed, and replanted sections are healthy, centered, and energized. 2. Plant Protection Splitting plants is also a good way to protect them from pests, like insects and fungal disease. Lifting them out of the soil will expose any grubs or larvae that may be destroying the roots. And portioning is the most effective way to curtail any infections above ground. Simply cut out and remove the affected areas until you’re left with only healthy growth. 3. Performance and Productivity The number and size of blossoms and seed heads is one of the first characteristics to suffer when a mature plant becomes overcrowded. Overall performance will suffer as well, with maladies like stunted growth and a general lack of vitality being common problems. A happy post-division meadowsweet plant. Photo by Lorna Kring. When they’re too crowded, flowering perennials will often produce fewer and smaller blossoms in order to conserve energy. The same is true of ornamental grasses whose seed heads and plumes are valued for their visual appeal. Roots that have become cramped can’t access the nutrients and moisture needed to flourish, and the soil that is available will soon become depleted. Splitting up clumps of perennials will ensure they receive proper nutrition for the best possible display. 4. Keep the Neighbors Happy Vigorous growers can take up more than their fair share of space, sunlight, water, and nutrients, depriving their nearby neighbors. This unequal consumption of resources can crowd out, overshadow, or simply overwhelm smaller or newer plants. The occasional splitting of the most vigorous or aggressive growers will keep all the plants on the block happy and healthy by allowing equal access to food and water. 5. Proliferation for a Polished Look The ability to easily propagate new plants by root division makes many perennials very cost-effective. Plus, plants that are split in this manner will still put on a nice performance in the same growing season. You can quickly build an attractive gardenscape by placing new divisions of the same plant throughout the garden. Dividing and transplanting multiples of the parent plant is an economical and natural way to enhance the design principles of harmony, line, balance, and repetition – and gives a professional, polished look to your plantings. And of course, potted divisions always make a wonderful gift for the gardening enthusiast, or as a contribution to community plant sales. When to Divide Digging up and cutting into root balls is stressful for plants, so you want to perform this process when they can recover as quickly and easily as possible. Split iris rhizomes when they’re 2-5 years old. The ideal conditions are when the soil is cool and moist, and the air is warm – which usually means spring and autumn. This will allow divisions the necessary time to settle into their new environment and establish a strong root system. There are exceptions of course, like the bearded iris, which should be divided in summer (see Rhizomes and Tubers below). But spring and fall work best for most perennials. If possible, divide perennials on a cloudy day, and when a few days of light rain are in the immediate forecast. As a general rule of thumb, spring and summer bloomers are best divided in the fall, and fall-blooming perennials should be split up in the spring. Spring transplants should go into the ground several weeks before the hot weather arrives. And for fall transplants, planting can continue until 6-8 weeks before the first frost. This is to allow the roots to become established before the extreme temperatures of summer and winter set in. Remember: never split a plant when it’s flowering. You want all of its energy to be directed into the leaves and roots for a robust foundation. If you must divide in the summer, avoid the midday heat and split your perennials in the early morning or late afternoon. Ensure that the new holes where you will place the roots have been thoroughly soaked before transplanting. Keep the plants well-watered until they’ve had a chance to recover. This can take anywhere from several days to a couple of weeks. You also want to ensure that your plants are large enough to create at least three or four new clumps before splitting. Portioning them too early will result in small plants that underperform, and may be too much of a shock to recover from if they haven’t reached full maturity. Potted perennials can usually grow for 2-3 years before they need to be split and repotted, while those in the ground can often grow for 3-5 years before they need to be split. Prepare New Locations Before you actually dig up any plants, a little prep work is needed. Your divided perennials are going to need new homes to inhabit, and it’s always prudent to prepare this area before the old plant is removed. Photo by Lorna Kring. First, determine the location(s) for your new plants and prepare the soil. The new hole should be twice as wide as the width of the root ball that will reside there, but no deeper than the original height of the root size from base to crown. To give your plants the best chance for success, I suggest digging deeper by 6-12 inches (depending on the plant’s size), then refilling the hole with amended soil to the height required for planting. Double digging in this manner loosens up the soil below the root ball, which allows the roots to grow straight down rather than spreading sideways. Deep roots will stay cooler in the summer heat, and have access to deeper reserves of moisture and nutrients – which means less watering and fertilizing for you! Amend all of the soil that you have removed by mixing in some organic material such as compost, worm castings, or well-rotted manure at about 25 percent of the volume. It’s also helpful to add in another 20-25 percent of moisture-retaining material such as perlite, vermiculite, sphagnum moss, or peat. Or, if your area gets an abundance of water and you have silt soil, mix in 20-25 percent builders’ sand to improve drainage. Note: DO NOT add sand to clay based soils as they can become hard as concrete when dry. Finally, mix in some bone meal to help with new root growth. If your plants are going into containers, ensure that the planters have drainage holes and a layer of drainage material on the bottom. Then add the above soil mixture to the proper height for planting. Once your soil has been prepared, it’s time to remove the old plant. Digging In Regardless of when you split a clump, your task will go much easier if the soil is well-moistened. If the rains haven’t cooperated, you’ll want to water thoroughly for a couple of days prior to digging. Your work will be a lot easier and less stressful on your plants if the soil is moist, but not saturated. (Bonus: gardening can help to reduce your stress levels as well!). Photo by Lorna Kring. The first step is to establish the drip line. This is the outer reach of the foliage and flowers when in full bloom from the center of the crown. The drip line is approximately how far the roots will extend, and it’s a good guideline for digging. To isolate the clump, step a pointed shovel deeply into the soil all the way around the drip line. Next, insert the shovel on a deep diagonal from the drip line, under the root ball. Do this at 4-8 equally spaced points around the drip line to keep the root system intact. Once the root ball has been loosened, lever the shovel a few times to ensure all the roots are released. Position the root ball on the shovel and lift it out, keeping everything as intact as possible. To make it easier to separate the clump, gently shake or brush off any excess soil. Separate and Replant Some crowns can be separated by pulling apart with your hands, while others will need to be cut apart. Depending on the size of the root ball you’re working with, the best tools for thick, tangled roots – like those of ornamental grasses – are a hori hori, a folding garden saw, or even a sharp shovel. Photo by Lorna Kring. If your root mass is very tightly compacted, lift it in the air a few feet, then drop it on the ground. This will loosen the roots, making them easier to divide. However, you’ll want to avoid this method on plants with brittle roots, such as peonies. Pry apart or cut each clump into quarters or thirds, ensuring that each new plant has a healthy root network, plus leaves. To reduce shock and prevent roots from drying out, replant the divisions pronto. If your plants can’t go into their new home immediately, heel them in the garden until you’re ready to plant. To heel plants, loosen some soil and lay plants on the ground, nestling the roots into the loose soil – half to three quarters of the root mass if possible. Then pile soil loosely on top of the remaining root ball to cover. Water gently, but avoid overhead watering as it will wash away the loose soil. Heeling in this manner helps to keep roots cool, and prevents them from drying out until they can go into the ground. It also protects plants from getting knocked over and other accidental damage while waiting for a permanent home. Plant at the same depth as the root ball, then gather the soil in. Firm the soil around the roots to securely position new plants, but don’t hard-pack. Water gently but thoroughly to settle in place. Then cover with a two-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and protect plants as they become established. Which Perennials Should Be Divided? In general, plants with soft, green stems that form clumps or spread by runners are suitable for root division. Here’s a partial list of some common ones that fit the bill: Bleeding hearts and peonies also belong to the list, but they rarely require splitting. Some soft-stemmed perennial herbs can also be propagated this way, such as: … And Which Ones Shouldn’t Of course, there are always those plants that fit the general description, but will sulk if you try to divide them. Here are some of the rebels: Columbines, euphorbias, hellebores, and lupines all self-seed easily, so look for seedlings at their base – these are much easier to transplant. Many herbs also seem suitable, but they are actually small, woody shrubs, and better suited to propagation through stem cuttings or from seed. Avoid trying to divide herbs like: Instead of dividing, these woody herbs will often form rooted layers that form when branches from the parent plant touch the soil and develop their own roots. These can be cut away from the host plant with a sharp knife, then transplanted in the same manner as divisions. Rhizomes and Tubers Rhizomes and tubers are perennials, and they do form clumps of growth that benefit from occasionally being split. But due to their unique root structure, they need to be handled differently than many other plants. A dahlia plant has been lifted out of the ground in preparation for division. Rhizomes are thick, fleshy stems that grow horizontally at, or just above, the soil level. In tropical regions, ornamental ginger is a common garden rhizome. And in temperate zones, the bearded iris is well-known. These dahlia tubers are overgrown and in need of division. Photo by Lorna Kring. These rhizomes should be divided in the summer, or after flowering while they rest – about a month or so after the last flowers have finished, but 4-6 weeks before the first frost. Split rhizomes when they’re 2-5 years old. Remove them from the soil, then cut or break apart in sections 3-5 inches long. Discard any old pieces or sections that are soft, mushy, or powdery. Each new section should have roots and one fan of green leaves, which can be trimmed back to 3 inches. Replant in loose, friable soil that’s been amended with organic material, with just the top of the rhizome peeking above soil level. For tuberous roots, like dahlias, tubers should be separated in the spring before planting, or in the fall before storing. Cut the tubers apart with a sharp knife – one with a straight edge, not a serrated one. Each new tuber needs a section of the original stem, and a bulbous growth bud or “eye.” Plant tubers 6-8 inches deep in loose soil amended with organic material, with the eye pointing upwards. Long-Lasting Beauty As you can see, there are plenty of good reasons to divide your perennials – they’ll thrive with renewed growth and vigor, and your entire garden will benefit from this one simple task! To recap, there are two important points to remember: 1. Most perennials are best suited for division in the spring or fall. 2. Prepare new homes for them first, then remove, divide, and replant. With just a little bit of care and maintenance, your perennial gardens will provide long-lasting beauty and a healthy, unified appearance in the garden for many years to come. Do you readers have any thoughts on the subject? Let us know in the comments below! Photos by Lorna Kring © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published May 11th, 2017. Last updated: May 9th, 2025. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[alexha2210]

It’s easy to get caught up in the splash and flash of annuals. They’re usually in bloom when you go to the nursery. And their siren’s song of color, form, and fragrance has a mighty appeal for the garden junkie. But for enduring performance and outstanding value, perennials are where it’s at. Somewhat more reserved in character, they don’t always have the same immediate visual impact that the strutting annuals do. And even after you’ve planted them, it may still take a year or two before they put on a full display. However, once established, they are easy to grow, reliable, and low maintenance. Plus, most of them can be divided into new plants – making them cost-effective as well. In this article, we’ll cover the reasons why we should divide perennials, when to do so, how to do it, and which plants are best suited for division. Let’s dig in! Divide and Prosper Once they’ve become established in a happy spot, perennials are adherents of Mr. Spock’s mantra to “live long and prosper” – and the occasional splitting of the host plant will help them to do just that. Here are five reasons why: 1. Keep Excessive Growth in Check We love the robust growth habits that are a key characteristic of these long-living plants. However, vigorous growth can also make them unmanageable in terms of size, shape, and spread. Portioning a clump of plants will help to keep their size manageable, while retaining all of their vitality and display qualities. When left unchecked, a plant will continue to grow and spread. Unfortunately, as the roots spread outward this can result in the center dying out, which leaves an ugly bare patch. With regular division, dead materials are removed, and replanted sections are healthy, centered, and energized. 2. Plant Protection Splitting plants is also a good way to protect them from pests, like insects and fungal disease. Lifting them out of the soil will expose any grubs or larvae that may be destroying the roots. And portioning is the most effective way to curtail any infections above ground. Simply cut out and remove the affected areas until you’re left with only healthy growth. 3. Performance and Productivity The number and size of blossoms and seed heads is one of the first characteristics to suffer when a mature plant becomes overcrowded. Overall performance will suffer as well, with maladies like stunted growth and a general lack of vitality being common problems. A happy post-division meadowsweet plant. Photo by Lorna Kring. When they’re too crowded, flowering perennials will often produce fewer and smaller blossoms in order to conserve energy. The same is true of ornamental grasses whose seed heads and plumes are valued for their visual appeal. Roots that have become cramped can’t access the nutrients and moisture needed to flourish, and the soil that is available will soon become depleted. Splitting up clumps of perennials will ensure they receive proper nutrition for the best possible display. 4. Keep the Neighbors Happy Vigorous growers can take up more than their fair share of space, sunlight, water, and nutrients, depriving their nearby neighbors. This unequal consumption of resources can crowd out, overshadow, or simply overwhelm smaller or newer plants. The occasional splitting of the most vigorous or aggressive growers will keep all the plants on the block happy and healthy by allowing equal access to food and water. 5. Proliferation for a Polished Look The ability to easily propagate new plants by root division makes many perennials very cost-effective. Plus, plants that are split in this manner will still put on a nice performance in the same growing season. You can quickly build an attractive gardenscape by placing new divisions of the same plant throughout the garden. Dividing and transplanting multiples of the parent plant is an economical and natural way to enhance the design principles of harmony, line, balance, and repetition – and gives a professional, polished look to your plantings. And of course, potted divisions always make a wonderful gift for the gardening enthusiast, or as a contribution to community plant sales. When to Divide Digging up and cutting into root balls is stressful for plants, so you want to perform this process when they can recover as quickly and easily as possible. Split iris rhizomes when they’re 2-5 years old. The ideal conditions are when the soil is cool and moist, and the air is warm – which usually means spring and autumn. This will allow divisions the necessary time to settle into their new environment and establish a strong root system. There are exceptions of course, like the bearded iris, which should be divided in summer (see Rhizomes and Tubers below). But spring and fall work best for most perennials. If possible, divide perennials on a cloudy day, and when a few days of light rain are in the immediate forecast. As a general rule of thumb, spring and summer bloomers are best divided in the fall, and fall-blooming perennials should be split up in the spring. Spring transplants should go into the ground several weeks before the hot weather arrives. And for fall transplants, planting can continue until 6-8 weeks before the first frost. This is to allow the roots to become established before the extreme temperatures of summer and winter set in. Remember: never split a plant when it’s flowering. You want all of its energy to be directed into the leaves and roots for a robust foundation. If you must divide in the summer, avoid the midday heat and split your perennials in the early morning or late afternoon. Ensure that the new holes where you will place the roots have been thoroughly soaked before transplanting. Keep the plants well-watered until they’ve had a chance to recover. This can take anywhere from several days to a couple of weeks. You also want to ensure that your plants are large enough to create at least three or four new clumps before splitting. Portioning them too early will result in small plants that underperform, and may be too much of a shock to recover from if they haven’t reached full maturity. Potted perennials can usually grow for 2-3 years before they need to be split and repotted, while those in the ground can often grow for 3-5 years before they need to be split. Prepare New Locations Before you actually dig up any plants, a little prep work is needed. Your divided perennials are going to need new homes to inhabit, and it’s always prudent to prepare this area before the old plant is removed. Photo by Lorna Kring. First, determine the location(s) for your new plants and prepare the soil. The new hole should be twice as wide as the width of the root ball that will reside there, but no deeper than the original height of the root size from base to crown. To give your plants the best chance for success, I suggest digging deeper by 6-12 inches (depending on the plant’s size), then refilling the hole with amended soil to the height required for planting. Double digging in this manner loosens up the soil below the root ball, which allows the roots to grow straight down rather than spreading sideways. Deep roots will stay cooler in the summer heat, and have access to deeper reserves of moisture and nutrients – which means less watering and fertilizing for you! Amend all of the soil that you have removed by mixing in some organic material such as compost, worm castings, or well-rotted manure at about 25 percent of the volume. It’s also helpful to add in another 20-25 percent of moisture-retaining material such as perlite, vermiculite, sphagnum moss, or peat. Or, if your area gets an abundance of water and you have silt soil, mix in 20-25 percent builders’ sand to improve drainage. Note: DO NOT add sand to clay based soils as they can become hard as concrete when dry. Finally, mix in some bone meal to help with new root growth. If your plants are going into containers, ensure that the planters have drainage holes and a layer of drainage material on the bottom. Then add the above soil mixture to the proper height for planting. Once your soil has been prepared, it’s time to remove the old plant. Digging In Regardless of when you split a clump, your task will go much easier if the soil is well-moistened. If the rains haven’t cooperated, you’ll want to water thoroughly for a couple of days prior to digging. Your work will be a lot easier and less stressful on your plants if the soil is moist, but not saturated. (Bonus: gardening can help to reduce your stress levels as well!). Photo by Lorna Kring. The first step is to establish the drip line. This is the outer reach of the foliage and flowers when in full bloom from the center of the crown. The drip line is approximately how far the roots will extend, and it’s a good guideline for digging. To isolate the clump, step a pointed shovel deeply into the soil all the way around the drip line. Next, insert the shovel on a deep diagonal from the drip line, under the root ball. Do this at 4-8 equally spaced points around the drip line to keep the root system intact. Once the root ball has been loosened, lever the shovel a few times to ensure all the roots are released. Position the root ball on the shovel and lift it out, keeping everything as intact as possible. To make it easier to separate the clump, gently shake or brush off any excess soil. Separate and Replant Some crowns can be separated by pulling apart with your hands, while others will need to be cut apart. Depending on the size of the root ball you’re working with, the best tools for thick, tangled roots – like those of ornamental grasses – are a hori hori, a folding garden saw, or even a sharp shovel. Photo by Lorna Kring. If your root mass is very tightly compacted, lift it in the air a few feet, then drop it on the ground. This will loosen the roots, making them easier to divide. However, you’ll want to avoid this method on plants with brittle roots, such as peonies. Pry apart or cut each clump into quarters or thirds, ensuring that each new plant has a healthy root network, plus leaves. To reduce shock and prevent roots from drying out, replant the divisions pronto. If your plants can’t go into their new home immediately, heel them in the garden until you’re ready to plant. To heel plants, loosen some soil and lay plants on the ground, nestling the roots into the loose soil – half to three quarters of the root mass if possible. Then pile soil loosely on top of the remaining root ball to cover. Water gently, but avoid overhead watering as it will wash away the loose soil. Heeling in this manner helps to keep roots cool, and prevents them from drying out until they can go into the ground. It also protects plants from getting knocked over and other accidental damage while waiting for a permanent home. Plant at the same depth as the root ball, then gather the soil in. Firm the soil around the roots to securely position new plants, but don’t hard-pack. Water gently but thoroughly to settle in place. Then cover with a two-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and protect plants as they become established. Which Perennials Should Be Divided? In general, plants with soft, green stems that form clumps or spread by runners are suitable for root division. Here’s a partial list of some common ones that fit the bill: Bleeding hearts and peonies also belong to the list, but they rarely require splitting. Some soft-stemmed perennial herbs can also be propagated this way, such as: … And Which Ones Shouldn’t Of course, there are always those plants that fit the general description, but will sulk if you try to divide them. Here are some of the rebels: Columbines, euphorbias, hellebores, and lupines all self-seed easily, so look for seedlings at their base – these are much easier to transplant. Many herbs also seem suitable, but they are actually small, woody shrubs, and better suited to propagation through stem cuttings or from seed. Avoid trying to divide herbs like: Instead of dividing, these woody herbs will often form rooted layers that form when branches from the parent plant touch the soil and develop their own roots. These can be cut away from the host plant with a sharp knife, then transplanted in the same manner as divisions. Rhizomes and Tubers Rhizomes and tubers are perennials, and they do form clumps of growth that benefit from occasionally being split. But due to their unique root structure, they need to be handled differently than many other plants. A dahlia plant has been lifted out of the ground in preparation for division. Rhizomes are thick, fleshy stems that grow horizontally at, or just above, the soil level. In tropical regions, ornamental ginger is a common garden rhizome. And in temperate zones, the bearded iris is well-known. These dahlia tubers are overgrown and in need of division. Photo by Lorna Kring. These rhizomes should be divided in the summer, or after flowering while they rest – about a month or so after the last flowers have finished, but 4-6 weeks before the first frost. Split rhizomes when they’re 2-5 years old. Remove them from the soil, then cut or break apart in sections 3-5 inches long. Discard any old pieces or sections that are soft, mushy, or powdery. Each new section should have roots and one fan of green leaves, which can be trimmed back to 3 inches. Replant in loose, friable soil that’s been amended with organic material, with just the top of the rhizome peeking above soil level. For tuberous roots, like dahlias, tubers should be separated in the spring before planting, or in the fall before storing. Cut the tubers apart with a sharp knife – one with a straight edge, not a serrated one. Each new tuber needs a section of the original stem, and a bulbous growth bud or “eye.” Plant tubers 6-8 inches deep in loose soil amended with organic material, with the eye pointing upwards. Long-Lasting Beauty As you can see, there are plenty of good reasons to divide your perennials – they’ll thrive with renewed growth and vigor, and your entire garden will benefit from this one simple task! To recap, there are two important points to remember: 1. Most perennials are best suited for division in the spring or fall. 2. Prepare new homes for them first, then remove, divide, and replant. With just a little bit of care and maintenance, your perennial gardens will provide long-lasting beauty and a healthy, unified appearance in the garden for many years to come. Do you readers have any thoughts on the subject? Let us know in the comments below! Photos by Lorna Kring © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published May 11th, 2017. Last updated: May 9th, 2025. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[angusstory]

It’s easy to get caught up in the splash and flash of annuals. They’re usually in bloom when you go to the nursery. And their siren’s song of color, form, and fragrance has a mighty appeal for the garden junkie. But for enduring performance and outstanding value, perennials are where it’s at. Somewhat more reserved in character, they don’t always have the same immediate visual impact that the strutting annuals do. And even after you’ve planted them, it may still take a year or two before they put on a full display. However, once established, they are easy to grow, reliable, and low maintenance. Plus, most of them can be divided into new plants – making them cost-effective as well. In this article, we’ll cover the reasons why we should divide perennials, when to do so, how to do it, and which plants are best suited for division. Let’s dig in! Divide and Prosper Once they’ve become established in a happy spot, perennials are adherents of Mr. Spock’s mantra to “live long and prosper” – and the occasional splitting of the host plant will help them to do just that. Here are five reasons why: 1. Keep Excessive Growth in Check We love the robust growth habits that are a key characteristic of these long-living plants. However, vigorous growth can also make them unmanageable in terms of size, shape, and spread. Portioning a clump of plants will help to keep their size manageable, while retaining all of their vitality and display qualities. When left unchecked, a plant will continue to grow and spread. Unfortunately, as the roots spread outward this can result in the center dying out, which leaves an ugly bare patch. With regular division, dead materials are removed, and replanted sections are healthy, centered, and energized. 2. Plant Protection Splitting plants is also a good way to protect them from pests, like insects and fungal disease. Lifting them out of the soil will expose any grubs or larvae that may be destroying the roots. And portioning is the most effective way to curtail any infections above ground. Simply cut out and remove the affected areas until you’re left with only healthy growth. 3. Performance and Productivity The number and size of blossoms and seed heads is one of the first characteristics to suffer when a mature plant becomes overcrowded. Overall performance will suffer as well, with maladies like stunted growth and a general lack of vitality being common problems. A happy post-division meadowsweet plant. Photo by Lorna Kring. When they’re too crowded, flowering perennials will often produce fewer and smaller blossoms in order to conserve energy. The same is true of ornamental grasses whose seed heads and plumes are valued for their visual appeal. Roots that have become cramped can’t access the nutrients and moisture needed to flourish, and the soil that is available will soon become depleted. Splitting up clumps of perennials will ensure they receive proper nutrition for the best possible display. 4. Keep the Neighbors Happy Vigorous growers can take up more than their fair share of space, sunlight, water, and nutrients, depriving their nearby neighbors. This unequal consumption of resources can crowd out, overshadow, or simply overwhelm smaller or newer plants. The occasional splitting of the most vigorous or aggressive growers will keep all the plants on the block happy and healthy by allowing equal access to food and water. 5. Proliferation for a Polished Look The ability to easily propagate new plants by root division makes many perennials very cost-effective. Plus, plants that are split in this manner will still put on a nice performance in the same growing season. You can quickly build an attractive gardenscape by placing new divisions of the same plant throughout the garden. Dividing and transplanting multiples of the parent plant is an economical and natural way to enhance the design principles of harmony, line, balance, and repetition – and gives a professional, polished look to your plantings. And of course, potted divisions always make a wonderful gift for the gardening enthusiast, or as a contribution to community plant sales. When to Divide Digging up and cutting into root balls is stressful for plants, so you want to perform this process when they can recover as quickly and easily as possible. Split iris rhizomes when they’re 2-5 years old. The ideal conditions are when the soil is cool and moist, and the air is warm – which usually means spring and autumn. This will allow divisions the necessary time to settle into their new environment and establish a strong root system. There are exceptions of course, like the bearded iris, which should be divided in summer (see Rhizomes and Tubers below). But spring and fall work best for most perennials. If possible, divide perennials on a cloudy day, and when a few days of light rain are in the immediate forecast. As a general rule of thumb, spring and summer bloomers are best divided in the fall, and fall-blooming perennials should be split up in the spring. Spring transplants should go into the ground several weeks before the hot weather arrives. And for fall transplants, planting can continue until 6-8 weeks before the first frost. This is to allow the roots to become established before the extreme temperatures of summer and winter set in. Remember: never split a plant when it’s flowering. You want all of its energy to be directed into the leaves and roots for a robust foundation. If you must divide in the summer, avoid the midday heat and split your perennials in the early morning or late afternoon. Ensure that the new holes where you will place the roots have been thoroughly soaked before transplanting. Keep the plants well-watered until they’ve had a chance to recover. This can take anywhere from several days to a couple of weeks. You also want to ensure that your plants are large enough to create at least three or four new clumps before splitting. Portioning them too early will result in small plants that underperform, and may be too much of a shock to recover from if they haven’t reached full maturity. Potted perennials can usually grow for 2-3 years before they need to be split and repotted, while those in the ground can often grow for 3-5 years before they need to be split. Prepare New Locations Before you actually dig up any plants, a little prep work is needed. Your divided perennials are going to need new homes to inhabit, and it’s always prudent to prepare this area before the old plant is removed. Photo by Lorna Kring. First, determine the location(s) for your new plants and prepare the soil. The new hole should be twice as wide as the width of the root ball that will reside there, but no deeper than the original height of the root size from base to crown. To give your plants the best chance for success, I suggest digging deeper by 6-12 inches (depending on the plant’s size), then refilling the hole with amended soil to the height required for planting. Double digging in this manner loosens up the soil below the root ball, which allows the roots to grow straight down rather than spreading sideways. Deep roots will stay cooler in the summer heat, and have access to deeper reserves of moisture and nutrients – which means less watering and fertilizing for you! Amend all of the soil that you have removed by mixing in some organic material such as compost, worm castings, or well-rotted manure at about 25 percent of the volume. It’s also helpful to add in another 20-25 percent of moisture-retaining material such as perlite, vermiculite, sphagnum moss, or peat. Or, if your area gets an abundance of water and you have silt soil, mix in 20-25 percent builders’ sand to improve drainage. Note: DO NOT add sand to clay based soils as they can become hard as concrete when dry. Finally, mix in some bone meal to help with new root growth. If your plants are going into containers, ensure that the planters have drainage holes and a layer of drainage material on the bottom. Then add the above soil mixture to the proper height for planting. Once your soil has been prepared, it’s time to remove the old plant. Digging In Regardless of when you split a clump, your task will go much easier if the soil is well-moistened. If the rains haven’t cooperated, you’ll want to water thoroughly for a couple of days prior to digging. Your work will be a lot easier and less stressful on your plants if the soil is moist, but not saturated. (Bonus: gardening can help to reduce your stress levels as well!). Photo by Lorna Kring. The first step is to establish the drip line. This is the outer reach of the foliage and flowers when in full bloom from the center of the crown. The drip line is approximately how far the roots will extend, and it’s a good guideline for digging. To isolate the clump, step a pointed shovel deeply into the soil all the way around the drip line. Next, insert the shovel on a deep diagonal from the drip line, under the root ball. Do this at 4-8 equally spaced points around the drip line to keep the root system intact. Once the root ball has been loosened, lever the shovel a few times to ensure all the roots are released. Position the root ball on the shovel and lift it out, keeping everything as intact as possible. To make it easier to separate the clump, gently shake or brush off any excess soil. Separate and Replant Some crowns can be separated by pulling apart with your hands, while others will need to be cut apart. Depending on the size of the root ball you’re working with, the best tools for thick, tangled roots – like those of ornamental grasses – are a hori hori, a folding garden saw, or even a sharp shovel. Photo by Lorna Kring. If your root mass is very tightly compacted, lift it in the air a few feet, then drop it on the ground. This will loosen the roots, making them easier to divide. However, you’ll want to avoid this method on plants with brittle roots, such as peonies. Pry apart or cut each clump into quarters or thirds, ensuring that each new plant has a healthy root network, plus leaves. To reduce shock and prevent roots from drying out, replant the divisions pronto. If your plants can’t go into their new home immediately, heel them in the garden until you’re ready to plant. To heel plants, loosen some soil and lay plants on the ground, nestling the roots into the loose soil – half to three quarters of the root mass if possible. Then pile soil loosely on top of the remaining root ball to cover. Water gently, but avoid overhead watering as it will wash away the loose soil. Heeling in this manner helps to keep roots cool, and prevents them from drying out until they can go into the ground. It also protects plants from getting knocked over and other accidental damage while waiting for a permanent home. Plant at the same depth as the root ball, then gather the soil in. Firm the soil around the roots to securely position new plants, but don’t hard-pack. Water gently but thoroughly to settle in place. Then cover with a two-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and protect plants as they become established. Which Perennials Should Be Divided? In general, plants with soft, green stems that form clumps or spread by runners are suitable for root division. Here’s a partial list of some common ones that fit the bill: Bleeding hearts and peonies also belong to the list, but they rarely require splitting. Some soft-stemmed perennial herbs can also be propagated this way, such as: … And Which Ones Shouldn’t Of course, there are always those plants that fit the general description, but will sulk if you try to divide them. Here are some of the rebels: Columbines, euphorbias, hellebores, and lupines all self-seed easily, so look for seedlings at their base – these are much easier to transplant. Many herbs also seem suitable, but they are actually small, woody shrubs, and better suited to propagation through stem cuttings or from seed. Avoid trying to divide herbs like: Instead of dividing, these woody herbs will often form rooted layers that form when branches from the parent plant touch the soil and develop their own roots. These can be cut away from the host plant with a sharp knife, then transplanted in the same manner as divisions. Rhizomes and Tubers Rhizomes and tubers are perennials, and they do form clumps of growth that benefit from occasionally being split. But due to their unique root structure, they need to be handled differently than many other plants. A dahlia plant has been lifted out of the ground in preparation for division. Rhizomes are thick, fleshy stems that grow horizontally at, or just above, the soil level. In tropical regions, ornamental ginger is a common garden rhizome. And in temperate zones, the bearded iris is well-known. These dahlia tubers are overgrown and in need of division. Photo by Lorna Kring. These rhizomes should be divided in the summer, or after flowering while they rest – about a month or so after the last flowers have finished, but 4-6 weeks before the first frost. Split rhizomes when they’re 2-5 years old. Remove them from the soil, then cut or break apart in sections 3-5 inches long. Discard any old pieces or sections that are soft, mushy, or powdery. Each new section should have roots and one fan of green leaves, which can be trimmed back to 3 inches. Replant in loose, friable soil that’s been amended with organic material, with just the top of the rhizome peeking above soil level. For tuberous roots, like dahlias, tubers should be separated in the spring before planting, or in the fall before storing. Cut the tubers apart with a sharp knife – one with a straight edge, not a serrated one. Each new tuber needs a section of the original stem, and a bulbous growth bud or “eye.” Plant tubers 6-8 inches deep in loose soil amended with organic material, with the eye pointing upwards. Long-Lasting Beauty As you can see, there are plenty of good reasons to divide your perennials – they’ll thrive with renewed growth and vigor, and your entire garden will benefit from this one simple task! To recap, there are two important points to remember: 1. Most perennials are best suited for division in the spring or fall. 2. Prepare new homes for them first, then remove, divide, and replant. With just a little bit of care and maintenance, your perennial gardens will provide long-lasting beauty and a healthy, unified appearance in the garden for many years to come. Do you readers have any thoughts on the subject? Let us know in the comments below! Photos by Lorna Kring © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published May 11th, 2017. Last updated: May 9th, 2025. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[tumibaba]

It’s easy to get caught up in the splash and flash of annuals. They’re usually in bloom when you go to the nursery. And their siren’s song of color, form, and fragrance has a mighty appeal for the garden junkie. But for enduring performance and outstanding value, perennials are where it’s at. Somewhat more reserved in character, they don’t always have the same immediate visual impact that the strutting annuals do. And even after you’ve planted them, it may still take a year or two before they put on a full display. However, once established, they are easy to grow, reliable, and low maintenance. Plus, most of them can be divided into new plants – making them cost-effective as well. In this article, we’ll cover the reasons why we should divide perennials, when to do so, how to do it, and which plants are best suited for division. Let’s dig in! Divide and Prosper Once they’ve become established in a happy spot, perennials are adherents of Mr. Spock’s mantra to “live long and prosper” – and the occasional splitting of the host plant will help them to do just that. Here are five reasons why: 1. Keep Excessive Growth in Check We love the robust growth habits that are a key characteristic of these long-living plants. However, vigorous growth can also make them unmanageable in terms of size, shape, and spread. Portioning a clump of plants will help to keep their size manageable, while retaining all of their vitality and display qualities. When left unchecked, a plant will continue to grow and spread. Unfortunately, as the roots spread outward this can result in the center dying out, which leaves an ugly bare patch. With regular division, dead materials are removed, and replanted sections are healthy, centered, and energized. 2. Plant Protection Splitting plants is also a good way to protect them from pests, like insects and fungal disease. Lifting them out of the soil will expose any grubs or larvae that may be destroying the roots. And portioning is the most effective way to curtail any infections above ground. Simply cut out and remove the affected areas until you’re left with only healthy growth. 3. Performance and Productivity The number and size of blossoms and seed heads is one of the first characteristics to suffer when a mature plant becomes overcrowded. Overall performance will suffer as well, with maladies like stunted growth and a general lack of vitality being common problems. A happy post-division meadowsweet plant. Photo by Lorna Kring. When they’re too crowded, flowering perennials will often produce fewer and smaller blossoms in order to conserve energy. The same is true of ornamental grasses whose seed heads and plumes are valued for their visual appeal. Roots that have become cramped can’t access the nutrients and moisture needed to flourish, and the soil that is available will soon become depleted. Splitting up clumps of perennials will ensure they receive proper nutrition for the best possible display. 4. Keep the Neighbors Happy Vigorous growers can take up more than their fair share of space, sunlight, water, and nutrients, depriving their nearby neighbors. This unequal consumption of resources can crowd out, overshadow, or simply overwhelm smaller or newer plants. The occasional splitting of the most vigorous or aggressive growers will keep all the plants on the block happy and healthy by allowing equal access to food and water. 5. Proliferation for a Polished Look The ability to easily propagate new plants by root division makes many perennials very cost-effective. Plus, plants that are split in this manner will still put on a nice performance in the same growing season. You can quickly build an attractive gardenscape by placing new divisions of the same plant throughout the garden. Dividing and transplanting multiples of the parent plant is an economical and natural way to enhance the design principles of harmony, line, balance, and repetition – and gives a professional, polished look to your plantings. And of course, potted divisions always make a wonderful gift for the gardening enthusiast, or as a contribution to community plant sales. When to Divide Digging up and cutting into root balls is stressful for plants, so you want to perform this process when they can recover as quickly and easily as possible. Split iris rhizomes when they’re 2-5 years old. The ideal conditions are when the soil is cool and moist, and the air is warm – which usually means spring and autumn. This will allow divisions the necessary time to settle into their new environment and establish a strong root system. There are exceptions of course, like the bearded iris, which should be divided in summer (see Rhizomes and Tubers below). But spring and fall work best for most perennials. If possible, divide perennials on a cloudy day, and when a few days of light rain are in the immediate forecast. As a general rule of thumb, spring and summer bloomers are best divided in the fall, and fall-blooming perennials should be split up in the spring. Spring transplants should go into the ground several weeks before the hot weather arrives. And for fall transplants, planting can continue until 6-8 weeks before the first frost. This is to allow the roots to become established before the extreme temperatures of summer and winter set in. Remember: never split a plant when it’s flowering. You want all of its energy to be directed into the leaves and roots for a robust foundation. If you must divide in the summer, avoid the midday heat and split your perennials in the early morning or late afternoon. Ensure that the new holes where you will place the roots have been thoroughly soaked before transplanting. Keep the plants well-watered until they’ve had a chance to recover. This can take anywhere from several days to a couple of weeks. You also want to ensure that your plants are large enough to create at least three or four new clumps before splitting. Portioning them too early will result in small plants that underperform, and may be too much of a shock to recover from if they haven’t reached full maturity. Potted perennials can usually grow for 2-3 years before they need to be split and repotted, while those in the ground can often grow for 3-5 years before they need to be split. Prepare New Locations Before you actually dig up any plants, a little prep work is needed. Your divided perennials are going to need new homes to inhabit, and it’s always prudent to prepare this area before the old plant is removed. Photo by Lorna Kring. First, determine the location(s) for your new plants and prepare the soil. The new hole should be twice as wide as the width of the root ball that will reside there, but no deeper than the original height of the root size from base to crown. To give your plants the best chance for success, I suggest digging deeper by 6-12 inches (depending on the plant’s size), then refilling the hole with amended soil to the height required for planting. Double digging in this manner loosens up the soil below the root ball, which allows the roots to grow straight down rather than spreading sideways. Deep roots will stay cooler in the summer heat, and have access to deeper reserves of moisture and nutrients – which means less watering and fertilizing for you! Amend all of the soil that you have removed by mixing in some organic material such as compost, worm castings, or well-rotted manure at about 25 percent of the volume. It’s also helpful to add in another 20-25 percent of moisture-retaining material such as perlite, vermiculite, sphagnum moss, or peat. Or, if your area gets an abundance of water and you have silt soil, mix in 20-25 percent builders’ sand to improve drainage. Note: DO NOT add sand to clay based soils as they can become hard as concrete when dry. Finally, mix in some bone meal to help with new root growth. If your plants are going into containers, ensure that the planters have drainage holes and a layer of drainage material on the bottom. Then add the above soil mixture to the proper height for planting. Once your soil has been prepared, it’s time to remove the old plant. Digging In Regardless of when you split a clump, your task will go much easier if the soil is well-moistened. If the rains haven’t cooperated, you’ll want to water thoroughly for a couple of days prior to digging. Your work will be a lot easier and less stressful on your plants if the soil is moist, but not saturated. (Bonus: gardening can help to reduce your stress levels as well!). Photo by Lorna Kring. The first step is to establish the drip line. This is the outer reach of the foliage and flowers when in full bloom from the center of the crown. The drip line is approximately how far the roots will extend, and it’s a good guideline for digging. To isolate the clump, step a pointed shovel deeply into the soil all the way around the drip line. Next, insert the shovel on a deep diagonal from the drip line, under the root ball. Do this at 4-8 equally spaced points around the drip line to keep the root system intact. Once the root ball has been loosened, lever the shovel a few times to ensure all the roots are released. Position the root ball on the shovel and lift it out, keeping everything as intact as possible. To make it easier to separate the clump, gently shake or brush off any excess soil. Separate and Replant Some crowns can be separated by pulling apart with your hands, while others will need to be cut apart. Depending on the size of the root ball you’re working with, the best tools for thick, tangled roots – like those of ornamental grasses – are a hori hori, a folding garden saw, or even a sharp shovel. Photo by Lorna Kring. If your root mass is very tightly compacted, lift it in the air a few feet, then drop it on the ground. This will loosen the roots, making them easier to divide. However, you’ll want to avoid this method on plants with brittle roots, such as peonies. Pry apart or cut each clump into quarters or thirds, ensuring that each new plant has a healthy root network, plus leaves. To reduce shock and prevent roots from drying out, replant the divisions pronto. If your plants can’t go into their new home immediately, heel them in the garden until you’re ready to plant. To heel plants, loosen some soil and lay plants on the ground, nestling the roots into the loose soil – half to three quarters of the root mass if possible. Then pile soil loosely on top of the remaining root ball to cover. Water gently, but avoid overhead watering as it will wash away the loose soil. Heeling in this manner helps to keep roots cool, and prevents them from drying out until they can go into the ground. It also protects plants from getting knocked over and other accidental damage while waiting for a permanent home. Plant at the same depth as the root ball, then gather the soil in. Firm the soil around the roots to securely position new plants, but don’t hard-pack. Water gently but thoroughly to settle in place. Then cover with a two-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and protect plants as they become established. Which Perennials Should Be Divided? In general, plants with soft, green stems that form clumps or spread by runners are suitable for root division. Here’s a partial list of some common ones that fit the bill: Bleeding hearts and peonies also belong to the list, but they rarely require splitting. Some soft-stemmed perennial herbs can also be propagated this way, such as: … And Which Ones Shouldn’t Of course, there are always those plants that fit the general description, but will sulk if you try to divide them. Here are some of the rebels: Columbines, euphorbias, hellebores, and lupines all self-seed easily, so look for seedlings at their base – these are much easier to transplant. Many herbs also seem suitable, but they are actually small, woody shrubs, and better suited to propagation through stem cuttings or from seed. Avoid trying to divide herbs like: Instead of dividing, these woody herbs will often form rooted layers that form when branches from the parent plant touch the soil and develop their own roots. These can be cut away from the host plant with a sharp knife, then transplanted in the same manner as divisions. Rhizomes and Tubers Rhizomes and tubers are perennials, and they do form clumps of growth that benefit from occasionally being split. But due to their unique root structure, they need to be handled differently than many other plants. A dahlia plant has been lifted out of the ground in preparation for division. Rhizomes are thick, fleshy stems that grow horizontally at, or just above, the soil level. In tropical regions, ornamental ginger is a common garden rhizome. And in temperate zones, the bearded iris is well-known. These dahlia tubers are overgrown and in need of division. Photo by Lorna Kring. These rhizomes should be divided in the summer, or after flowering while they rest – about a month or so after the last flowers have finished, but 4-6 weeks before the first frost. Split rhizomes when they’re 2-5 years old. Remove them from the soil, then cut or break apart in sections 3-5 inches long. Discard any old pieces or sections that are soft, mushy, or powdery. Each new section should have roots and one fan of green leaves, which can be trimmed back to 3 inches. Replant in loose, friable soil that’s been amended with organic material, with just the top of the rhizome peeking above soil level. For tuberous roots, like dahlias, tubers should be separated in the spring before planting, or in the fall before storing. Cut the tubers apart with a sharp knife – one with a straight edge, not a serrated one. Each new tuber needs a section of the original stem, and a bulbous growth bud or “eye.” Plant tubers 6-8 inches deep in loose soil amended with organic material, with the eye pointing upwards. Long-Lasting Beauty As you can see, there are plenty of good reasons to divide your perennials – they’ll thrive with renewed growth and vigor, and your entire garden will benefit from this one simple task! To recap, there are two important points to remember: 1. Most perennials are best suited for division in the spring or fall. 2. Prepare new homes for them first, then remove, divide, and replant. With just a little bit of care and maintenance, your perennial gardens will provide long-lasting beauty and a healthy, unified appearance in the garden for many years to come. Do you readers have any thoughts on the subject? Let us know in the comments below! Photos by Lorna Kring © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published May 11th, 2017. Last updated: May 9th, 2025. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[romaleen]

It’s easy to get caught up in the splash and flash of annuals. They’re usually in bloom when you go to the nursery. And their siren’s song of color, form, and fragrance has a mighty appeal for the garden junkie. But for enduring performance and outstanding value, perennials are where it’s at. Somewhat more reserved in character, they don’t always have the same immediate visual impact that the strutting annuals do. And even after you’ve planted them, it may still take a year or two before they put on a full display. However, once established, they are easy to grow, reliable, and low maintenance. Plus, most of them can be divided into new plants – making them cost-effective as well. In this article, we’ll cover the reasons why we should divide perennials, when to do so, how to do it, and which plants are best suited for division. Let’s dig in! Divide and Prosper Once they’ve become established in a happy spot, perennials are adherents of Mr. Spock’s mantra to “live long and prosper” – and the occasional splitting of the host plant will help them to do just that. Here are five reasons why: 1. Keep Excessive Growth in Check We love the robust growth habits that are a key characteristic of these long-living plants. However, vigorous growth can also make them unmanageable in terms of size, shape, and spread. Portioning a clump of plants will help to keep their size manageable, while retaining all of their vitality and display qualities. When left unchecked, a plant will continue to grow and spread. Unfortunately, as the roots spread outward this can result in the center dying out, which leaves an ugly bare patch. With regular division, dead materials are removed, and replanted sections are healthy, centered, and energized. 2. Plant Protection Splitting plants is also a good way to protect them from pests, like insects and fungal disease. Lifting them out of the soil will expose any grubs or larvae that may be destroying the roots. And portioning is the most effective way to curtail any infections above ground. Simply cut out and remove the affected areas until you’re left with only healthy growth. 3. Performance and Productivity The number and size of blossoms and seed heads is one of the first characteristics to suffer when a mature plant becomes overcrowded. Overall performance will suffer as well, with maladies like stunted growth and a general lack of vitality being common problems. A happy post-division meadowsweet plant. Photo by Lorna Kring. When they’re too crowded, flowering perennials will often produce fewer and smaller blossoms in order to conserve energy. The same is true of ornamental grasses whose seed heads and plumes are valued for their visual appeal. Roots that have become cramped can’t access the nutrients and moisture needed to flourish, and the soil that is available will soon become depleted. Splitting up clumps of perennials will ensure they receive proper nutrition for the best possible display. 4. Keep the Neighbors Happy Vigorous growers can take up more than their fair share of space, sunlight, water, and nutrients, depriving their nearby neighbors. This unequal consumption of resources can crowd out, overshadow, or simply overwhelm smaller or newer plants. The occasional splitting of the most vigorous or aggressive growers will keep all the plants on the block happy and healthy by allowing equal access to food and water. 5. Proliferation for a Polished Look The ability to easily propagate new plants by root division makes many perennials very cost-effective. Plus, plants that are split in this manner will still put on a nice performance in the same growing season. You can quickly build an attractive gardenscape by placing new divisions of the same plant throughout the garden. Dividing and transplanting multiples of the parent plant is an economical and natural way to enhance the design principles of harmony, line, balance, and repetition – and gives a professional, polished look to your plantings. And of course, potted divisions always make a wonderful gift for the gardening enthusiast, or as a contribution to community plant sales. When to Divide Digging up and cutting into root balls is stressful for plants, so you want to perform this process when they can recover as quickly and easily as possible. Split iris rhizomes when they’re 2-5 years old. The ideal conditions are when the soil is cool and moist, and the air is warm – which usually means spring and autumn. This will allow divisions the necessary time to settle into their new environment and establish a strong root system. There are exceptions of course, like the bearded iris, which should be divided in summer (see Rhizomes and Tubers below). But spring and fall work best for most perennials. If possible, divide perennials on a cloudy day, and when a few days of light rain are in the immediate forecast. As a general rule of thumb, spring and summer bloomers are best divided in the fall, and fall-blooming perennials should be split up in the spring. Spring transplants should go into the ground several weeks before the hot weather arrives. And for fall transplants, planting can continue until 6-8 weeks before the first frost. This is to allow the roots to become established before the extreme temperatures of summer and winter set in. Remember: never split a plant when it’s flowering. You want all of its energy to be directed into the leaves and roots for a robust foundation. If you must divide in the summer, avoid the midday heat and split your perennials in the early morning or late afternoon. Ensure that the new holes where you will place the roots have been thoroughly soaked before transplanting. Keep the plants well-watered until they’ve had a chance to recover. This can take anywhere from several days to a couple of weeks. You also want to ensure that your plants are large enough to create at least three or four new clumps before splitting. Portioning them too early will result in small plants that underperform, and may be too much of a shock to recover from if they haven’t reached full maturity. Potted perennials can usually grow for 2-3 years before they need to be split and repotted, while those in the ground can often grow for 3-5 years before they need to be split. Prepare New Locations Before you actually dig up any plants, a little prep work is needed. Your divided perennials are going to need new homes to inhabit, and it’s always prudent to prepare this area before the old plant is removed. Photo by Lorna Kring. First, determine the location(s) for your new plants and prepare the soil. The new hole should be twice as wide as the width of the root ball that will reside there, but no deeper than the original height of the root size from base to crown. To give your plants the best chance for success, I suggest digging deeper by 6-12 inches (depending on the plant’s size), then refilling the hole with amended soil to the height required for planting. Double digging in this manner loosens up the soil below the root ball, which allows the roots to grow straight down rather than spreading sideways. Deep roots will stay cooler in the summer heat, and have access to deeper reserves of moisture and nutrients – which means less watering and fertilizing for you! Amend all of the soil that you have removed by mixing in some organic material such as compost, worm castings, or well-rotted manure at about 25 percent of the volume. It’s also helpful to add in another 20-25 percent of moisture-retaining material such as perlite, vermiculite, sphagnum moss, or peat. Or, if your area gets an abundance of water and you have silt soil, mix in 20-25 percent builders’ sand to improve drainage. Note: DO NOT add sand to clay based soils as they can become hard as concrete when dry. Finally, mix in some bone meal to help with new root growth. If your plants are going into containers, ensure that the planters have drainage holes and a layer of drainage material on the bottom. Then add the above soil mixture to the proper height for planting. Once your soil has been prepared, it’s time to remove the old plant. Digging In Regardless of when you split a clump, your task will go much easier if the soil is well-moistened. If the rains haven’t cooperated, you’ll want to water thoroughly for a couple of days prior to digging. Your work will be a lot easier and less stressful on your plants if the soil is moist, but not saturated. (Bonus: gardening can help to reduce your stress levels as well!). Photo by Lorna Kring. The first step is to establish the drip line. This is the outer reach of the foliage and flowers when in full bloom from the center of the crown. The drip line is approximately how far the roots will extend, and it’s a good guideline for digging. To isolate the clump, step a pointed shovel deeply into the soil all the way around the drip line. Next, insert the shovel on a deep diagonal from the drip line, under the root ball. Do this at 4-8 equally spaced points around the drip line to keep the root system intact. Once the root ball has been loosened, lever the shovel a few times to ensure all the roots are released. Position the root ball on the shovel and lift it out, keeping everything as intact as possible. To make it easier to separate the clump, gently shake or brush off any excess soil. Separate and Replant Some crowns can be separated by pulling apart with your hands, while others will need to be cut apart. Depending on the size of the root ball you’re working with, the best tools for thick, tangled roots – like those of ornamental grasses – are a hori hori, a folding garden saw, or even a sharp shovel. Photo by Lorna Kring. If your root mass is very tightly compacted, lift it in the air a few feet, then drop it on the ground. This will loosen the roots, making them easier to divide. However, you’ll want to avoid this method on plants with brittle roots, such as peonies. Pry apart or cut each clump into quarters or thirds, ensuring that each new plant has a healthy root network, plus leaves. To reduce shock and prevent roots from drying out, replant the divisions pronto. If your plants can’t go into their new home immediately, heel them in the garden until you’re ready to plant. To heel plants, loosen some soil and lay plants on the ground, nestling the roots into the loose soil – half to three quarters of the root mass if possible. Then pile soil loosely on top of the remaining root ball to cover. Water gently, but avoid overhead watering as it will wash away the loose soil. Heeling in this manner helps to keep roots cool, and prevents them from drying out until they can go into the ground. It also protects plants from getting knocked over and other accidental damage while waiting for a permanent home. Plant at the same depth as the root ball, then gather the soil in. Firm the soil around the roots to securely position new plants, but don’t hard-pack. Water gently but thoroughly to settle in place. Then cover with a two-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and protect plants as they become established. Which Perennials Should Be Divided? In general, plants with soft, green stems that form clumps or spread by runners are suitable for root division. Here’s a partial list of some common ones that fit the bill: Bleeding hearts and peonies also belong to the list, but they rarely require splitting. Some soft-stemmed perennial herbs can also be propagated this way, such as: … And Which Ones Shouldn’t Of course, there are always those plants that fit the general description, but will sulk if you try to divide them. Here are some of the rebels: Columbines, euphorbias, hellebores, and lupines all self-seed easily, so look for seedlings at their base – these are much easier to transplant. Many herbs also seem suitable, but they are actually small, woody shrubs, and better suited to propagation through stem cuttings or from seed. Avoid trying to divide herbs like: Instead of dividing, these woody herbs will often form rooted layers that form when branches from the parent plant touch the soil and develop their own roots. These can be cut away from the host plant with a sharp knife, then transplanted in the same manner as divisions. Rhizomes and Tubers Rhizomes and tubers are perennials, and they do form clumps of growth that benefit from occasionally being split. But due to their unique root structure, they need to be handled differently than many other plants. A dahlia plant has been lifted out of the ground in preparation for division. Rhizomes are thick, fleshy stems that grow horizontally at, or just above, the soil level. In tropical regions, ornamental ginger is a common garden rhizome. And in temperate zones, the bearded iris is well-known. These dahlia tubers are overgrown and in need of division. Photo by Lorna Kring. These rhizomes should be divided in the summer, or after flowering while they rest – about a month or so after the last flowers have finished, but 4-6 weeks before the first frost. Split rhizomes when they’re 2-5 years old. Remove them from the soil, then cut or break apart in sections 3-5 inches long. Discard any old pieces or sections that are soft, mushy, or powdery. Each new section should have roots and one fan of green leaves, which can be trimmed back to 3 inches. Replant in loose, friable soil that’s been amended with organic material, with just the top of the rhizome peeking above soil level. For tuberous roots, like dahlias, tubers should be separated in the spring before planting, or in the fall before storing. Cut the tubers apart with a sharp knife – one with a straight edge, not a serrated one. Each new tuber needs a section of the original stem, and a bulbous growth bud or “eye.” Plant tubers 6-8 inches deep in loose soil amended with organic material, with the eye pointing upwards. Long-Lasting Beauty As you can see, there are plenty of good reasons to divide your perennials – they’ll thrive with renewed growth and vigor, and your entire garden will benefit from this one simple task! To recap, there are two important points to remember: 1. Most perennials are best suited for division in the spring or fall. 2. Prepare new homes for them first, then remove, divide, and replant. With just a little bit of care and maintenance, your perennial gardens will provide long-lasting beauty and a healthy, unified appearance in the garden for many years to come. Do you readers have any thoughts on the subject? Let us know in the comments below! Photos by Lorna Kring © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published May 11th, 2017. Last updated: May 9th, 2025. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[monaleen101]

It’s easy to get caught up in the splash and flash of annuals. They’re usually in bloom when you go to the nursery. And their siren’s song of color, form, and fragrance has a mighty appeal for the garden junkie. But for enduring performance and outstanding value, perennials are where it’s at. Somewhat more reserved in character, they don’t always have the same immediate visual impact that the strutting annuals do. And even after you’ve planted them, it may still take a year or two before they put on a full display. However, once established, they are easy to grow, reliable, and low maintenance. Plus, most of them can be divided into new plants – making them cost-effective as well. In this article, we’ll cover the reasons why we should divide perennials, when to do so, how to do it, and which plants are best suited for division. Let’s dig in! Divide and Prosper Once they’ve become established in a happy spot, perennials are adherents of Mr. Spock’s mantra to “live long and prosper” – and the occasional splitting of the host plant will help them to do just that. Here are five reasons why: 1. Keep Excessive Growth in Check We love the robust growth habits that are a key characteristic of these long-living plants. However, vigorous growth can also make them unmanageable in terms of size, shape, and spread. Portioning a clump of plants will help to keep their size manageable, while retaining all of their vitality and display qualities. When left unchecked, a plant will continue to grow and spread. Unfortunately, as the roots spread outward this can result in the center dying out, which leaves an ugly bare patch. With regular division, dead materials are removed, and replanted sections are healthy, centered, and energized. 2. Plant Protection Splitting plants is also a good way to protect them from pests, like insects and fungal disease. Lifting them out of the soil will expose any grubs or larvae that may be destroying the roots. And portioning is the most effective way to curtail any infections above ground. Simply cut out and remove the affected areas until you’re left with only healthy growth. 3. Performance and Productivity The number and size of blossoms and seed heads is one of the first characteristics to suffer when a mature plant becomes overcrowded. Overall performance will suffer as well, with maladies like stunted growth and a general lack of vitality being common problems. A happy post-division meadowsweet plant. Photo by Lorna Kring. When they’re too crowded, flowering perennials will often produce fewer and smaller blossoms in order to conserve energy. The same is true of ornamental grasses whose seed heads and plumes are valued for their visual appeal. Roots that have become cramped can’t access the nutrients and moisture needed to flourish, and the soil that is available will soon become depleted. Splitting up clumps of perennials will ensure they receive proper nutrition for the best possible display. 4. Keep the Neighbors Happy Vigorous growers can take up more than their fair share of space, sunlight, water, and nutrients, depriving their nearby neighbors. This unequal consumption of resources can crowd out, overshadow, or simply overwhelm smaller or newer plants. The occasional splitting of the most vigorous or aggressive growers will keep all the plants on the block happy and healthy by allowing equal access to food and water. 5. Proliferation for a Polished Look The ability to easily propagate new plants by root division makes many perennials very cost-effective. Plus, plants that are split in this manner will still put on a nice performance in the same growing season. You can quickly build an attractive gardenscape by placing new divisions of the same plant throughout the garden. Dividing and transplanting multiples of the parent plant is an economical and natural way to enhance the design principles of harmony, line, balance, and repetition – and gives a professional, polished look to your plantings. And of course, potted divisions always make a wonderful gift for the gardening enthusiast, or as a contribution to community plant sales. When to Divide Digging up and cutting into root balls is stressful for plants, so you want to perform this process when they can recover as quickly and easily as possible. Split iris rhizomes when they’re 2-5 years old. The ideal conditions are when the soil is cool and moist, and the air is warm – which usually means spring and autumn. This will allow divisions the necessary time to settle into their new environment and establish a strong root system. There are exceptions of course, like the bearded iris, which should be divided in summer (see Rhizomes and Tubers below). But spring and fall work best for most perennials. If possible, divide perennials on a cloudy day, and when a few days of light rain are in the immediate forecast. As a general rule of thumb, spring and summer bloomers are best divided in the fall, and fall-blooming perennials should be split up in the spring. Spring transplants should go into the ground several weeks before the hot weather arrives. And for fall transplants, planting can continue until 6-8 weeks before the first frost. This is to allow the roots to become established before the extreme temperatures of summer and winter set in. Remember: never split a plant when it’s flowering. You want all of its energy to be directed into the leaves and roots for a robust foundation. If you must divide in the summer, avoid the midday heat and split your perennials in the early morning or late afternoon. Ensure that the new holes where you will place the roots have been thoroughly soaked before transplanting. Keep the plants well-watered until they’ve had a chance to recover. This can take anywhere from several days to a couple of weeks. You also want to ensure that your plants are large enough to create at least three or four new clumps before splitting. Portioning them too early will result in small plants that underperform, and may be too much of a shock to recover from if they haven’t reached full maturity. Potted perennials can usually grow for 2-3 years before they need to be split and repotted, while those in the ground can often grow for 3-5 years before they need to be split. Prepare New Locations Before you actually dig up any plants, a little prep work is needed. Your divided perennials are going to need new homes to inhabit, and it’s always prudent to prepare this area before the old plant is removed. Photo by Lorna Kring. First, determine the location(s) for your new plants and prepare the soil. The new hole should be twice as wide as the width of the root ball that will reside there, but no deeper than the original height of the root size from base to crown. To give your plants the best chance for success, I suggest digging deeper by 6-12 inches (depending on the plant’s size), then refilling the hole with amended soil to the height required for planting. Double digging in this manner loosens up the soil below the root ball, which allows the roots to grow straight down rather than spreading sideways. Deep roots will stay cooler in the summer heat, and have access to deeper reserves of moisture and nutrients – which means less watering and fertilizing for you! Amend all of the soil that you have removed by mixing in some organic material such as compost, worm castings, or well-rotted manure at about 25 percent of the volume. It’s also helpful to add in another 20-25 percent of moisture-retaining material such as perlite, vermiculite, sphagnum moss, or peat. Or, if your area gets an abundance of water and you have silt soil, mix in 20-25 percent builders’ sand to improve drainage. Note: DO NOT add sand to clay based soils as they can become hard as concrete when dry. Finally, mix in some bone meal to help with new root growth. If your plants are going into containers, ensure that the planters have drainage holes and a layer of drainage material on the bottom. Then add the above soil mixture to the proper height for planting. Once your soil has been prepared, it’s time to remove the old plant. Digging In Regardless of when you split a clump, your task will go much easier if the soil is well-moistened. If the rains haven’t cooperated, you’ll want to water thoroughly for a couple of days prior to digging. Your work will be a lot easier and less stressful on your plants if the soil is moist, but not saturated. (Bonus: gardening can help to reduce your stress levels as well!). Photo by Lorna Kring. The first step is to establish the drip line. This is the outer reach of the foliage and flowers when in full bloom from the center of the crown. The drip line is approximately how far the roots will extend, and it’s a good guideline for digging. To isolate the clump, step a pointed shovel deeply into the soil all the way around the drip line. Next, insert the shovel on a deep diagonal from the drip line, under the root ball. Do this at 4-8 equally spaced points around the drip line to keep the root system intact. Once the root ball has been loosened, lever the shovel a few times to ensure all the roots are released. Position the root ball on the shovel and lift it out, keeping everything as intact as possible. To make it easier to separate the clump, gently shake or brush off any excess soil. Separate and Replant Some crowns can be separated by pulling apart with your hands, while others will need to be cut apart. Depending on the size of the root ball you’re working with, the best tools for thick, tangled roots – like those of ornamental grasses – are a hori hori, a folding garden saw, or even a sharp shovel. Photo by Lorna Kring. If your root mass is very tightly compacted, lift it in the air a few feet, then drop it on the ground. This will loosen the roots, making them easier to divide. However, you’ll want to avoid this method on plants with brittle roots, such as peonies. Pry apart or cut each clump into quarters or thirds, ensuring that each new plant has a healthy root network, plus leaves. To reduce shock and prevent roots from drying out, replant the divisions pronto. If your plants can’t go into their new home immediately, heel them in the garden until you’re ready to plant. To heel plants, loosen some soil and lay plants on the ground, nestling the roots into the loose soil – half to three quarters of the root mass if possible. Then pile soil loosely on top of the remaining root ball to cover. Water gently, but avoid overhead watering as it will wash away the loose soil. Heeling in this manner helps to keep roots cool, and prevents them from drying out until they can go into the ground. It also protects plants from getting knocked over and other accidental damage while waiting for a permanent home. Plant at the same depth as the root ball, then gather the soil in. Firm the soil around the roots to securely position new plants, but don’t hard-pack. Water gently but thoroughly to settle in place. Then cover with a two-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and protect plants as they become established. Which Perennials Should Be Divided? In general, plants with soft, green stems that form clumps or spread by runners are suitable for root division. Here’s a partial list of some common ones that fit the bill: Bleeding hearts and peonies also belong to the list, but they rarely require splitting. Some soft-stemmed perennial herbs can also be propagated this way, such as: … And Which Ones Shouldn’t Of course, there are always those plants that fit the general description, but will sulk if you try to divide them. Here are some of the rebels: Columbines, euphorbias, hellebores, and lupines all self-seed easily, so look for seedlings at their base – these are much easier to transplant. Many herbs also seem suitable, but they are actually small, woody shrubs, and better suited to propagation through stem cuttings or from seed. Avoid trying to divide herbs like: Instead of dividing, these woody herbs will often form rooted layers that form when branches from the parent plant touch the soil and develop their own roots. These can be cut away from the host plant with a sharp knife, then transplanted in the same manner as divisions. Rhizomes and Tubers Rhizomes and tubers are perennials, and they do form clumps of growth that benefit from occasionally being split. But due to their unique root structure, they need to be handled differently than many other plants. A dahlia plant has been lifted out of the ground in preparation for division. Rhizomes are thick, fleshy stems that grow horizontally at, or just above, the soil level. In tropical regions, ornamental ginger is a common garden rhizome. And in temperate zones, the bearded iris is well-known. These dahlia tubers are overgrown and in need of division. Photo by Lorna Kring. These rhizomes should be divided in the summer, or after flowering while they rest – about a month or so after the last flowers have finished, but 4-6 weeks before the first frost. Split rhizomes when they’re 2-5 years old. Remove them from the soil, then cut or break apart in sections 3-5 inches long. Discard any old pieces or sections that are soft, mushy, or powdery. Each new section should have roots and one fan of green leaves, which can be trimmed back to 3 inches. Replant in loose, friable soil that’s been amended with organic material, with just the top of the rhizome peeking above soil level. For tuberous roots, like dahlias, tubers should be separated in the spring before planting, or in the fall before storing. Cut the tubers apart with a sharp knife – one with a straight edge, not a serrated one. Each new tuber needs a section of the original stem, and a bulbous growth bud or “eye.” Plant tubers 6-8 inches deep in loose soil amended with organic material, with the eye pointing upwards. Long-Lasting Beauty As you can see, there are plenty of good reasons to divide your perennials – they’ll thrive with renewed growth and vigor, and your entire garden will benefit from this one simple task! To recap, there are two important points to remember: 1. Most perennials are best suited for division in the spring or fall. 2. Prepare new homes for them first, then remove, divide, and replant. With just a little bit of care and maintenance, your perennial gardens will provide long-lasting beauty and a healthy, unified appearance in the garden for many years to come. Do you readers have any thoughts on the subject? Let us know in the comments below! Photos by Lorna Kring © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published May 11th, 2017. Last updated: May 9th, 2025. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link