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Falmouth to Fowey: hills, cliffs and shingle

2 - 4 August

24 miles

After the downpour of Friday, which continued most of the night, I was surprised to see a blue sky and sunshine on Saturday morning. Adrian rigged up the full set of code flags which we had planned to dress Orion with on my birthday - there had been no point doing it on the day as they would have been bedraggled.

We walked out to Pendennis Head, following the path around the castle fortifications, finishing at the small tower at the very tip of the headland - glorious views out to sea.

Later that afternoon, the elite collection of superyachts in Pendennis harbour were joined by an even more illustrious vessel - the enormous schooner Adix, which is apparently the 12th largest sailing yacht in the world - and was built round the corner by Pendennis boatyard. It took a large team onboard and onshore, equipped with walkie talkies to bring her alongside - and of course she attracted a big crowd.

Sunday morning we were up relatively early, and topped up on fuel before motoring into Carrick Roads in light winds and calm seas under blue skies. The views of St Mawes and Pendennis Head were amazing.

Falmouth is a fascinating town, a mix of gritty shipyard and centuries of naval history, plus a glimpse into the lives of the super rich. I’m sure we’ll be back.

We sailed past Portscatho, and the pretty little beach at Rosevine where we’d spent a day with the Taylors three weeks earlier.

As we rounded Dodman point, the skies darkened.

Next was St Austell Bay, with golden beaches giving way to the town sprawl, then the strange shapes of the china clay tips, and finally the brooding grey of Bodmin Moor.

The red and white stripes of the tall daymark on Gribbin Head showed the way into Fowey harbour, once again in slightly gloomy and sombre mood under grey clouds.

We headed up past the Ferry and towards the china clay works, where three large ships awaited their cargo, and secured a mooring at our favourite mini-marina, Mixtow.

After lunch, we embarked on a walk that turned out more ambitious than anticipated. From the Bodinnick Ferry we trudged up a ridiculously steep road past a tiny church, then followed a wooded path, called the “Hall Walk.” In a small clearing in the trees, next to a war monument, we caught an amazing, almost aerial view of the harbour.

The switchback path continued around the headland and along the cliffs above Pont Pill, the creek opposite Fowey Town. There were more vertiginous views, and a monument to Sir Arthur Quiller Couch. Then we descended to a charming footbridge at the head of the creek.

The path climbed again on its way to Polruan, the fishing port opposite Fowey, and provided more aerial views of the moorings.

Polruan has even steeper streets than Fowey, with houses seemingly stacked on top of each other. We stopped for a welcome pot of tea and cake in Crumpets tiny cafe (recommended).

My original plan had been to retrace our steps back to Mixtow, but it was now 1700, so we wimped out and took the Polruan passenger ferry back to Fowey, and then the Bodinnick ferry back to Mixtow. There were a few showers, but the late evening sun shone and we had a welcome glass of wine at the charming cafe bar above Mixtow quay.

Monday was another day of sunshine, and we collected some tasty pasties from the excellent Kittow deli/butchers in Fowey, before catching the Polruan ferry and climbing up the steep streets to follow the coast path east. The views back to Gribbin Head were worth the ascent.

On the highest point of the Polruan headland was a fragment of an 8th Century church, and next to it a tiny lookout cottage, complete with windscreen wipers on its seaward windows, manned by the volunteer coastwatch team.

We followed the coast path through open heathland, past already ripening blackberries and up shady but exhaustingly steep paths, until we reached Lantic Bay.

Far below us was an enticing golden beach, and we could just make out a couple of figures and a steep diagonal path on the wooded green cliff. So we thought it might make a good picnic spot.

It was a steeper descent than we had anticipated, but a good challenge. The beach itself was shingle - fine and nearly sandlike at the back, and a ridge of tiny rounded pebbles near the cool clear breakers. It was hard to walk on, and in my haste to cool my feet I was surprised - and soaked - by a rogue large wave. But it was warm enough to dry out while we consumed our pasties and tried not to think too much about the climb back up after lunch.

The beach soon started to fill up with intrepid families, bringing surprising amounts of gear for such a tough climb. And a couple of yachts anchored off the beach.

The return ascent was hot but not as tortured as we had feared, and we were soon following the high coast path back to Polruan for a welcome drink from the Lugger Inn and the ferry home.

After a couple of hours to recover, we were amused to see the steam launch chugging past us, delivering guests to a private party at the Mixtow cafe.

We had a final dinner in Fowey at an excellent South Indian restaurant, Sunny Spice, highly recommended, and caught a late passenger ferry back to Bodinnick in the dark. As we returned, one of the china clay ships was tugged out to sea, sitting low in the water with its heavy cargo.

#Falmouth #St Austell Bay #Dodman Point #Gribbin Head #Hall Walk #Polruan #Lantic Bay #Fowey

Fowey to Falmouth: Friends, Sunshine and Superyachts

15-16 July 2014 20 miles For the passage from Fowey to Falmouth we had invited our friends Phillippa, Martyn and their three children to join us. There were complex logistics involved, but about 0900 on Tuesday I met them all at the Bodinnick ferry, and we walked across to Mixtow quay to get them set up with lifejackets and safety briefing. The forecast was benign: sunny spells and light SW winds, F3. Of course our route was SW, but we were now resigned to always beating to windward.

We motored out of Fowey harbour, and headed south west towards Gribbin Head. The sea was completely smooth and there was no wind, so we continued under engine, with Lydia helming.

Round Gribbin, St Austell bay opened up, with amazing views inland to the china clay spoil tips and the flat tops of Bodmin Moor. The sun came out and caught the yellow beach of Par Sands.

Switching off the engine, we tried sailing on a light airs beat towards Black Head and Mevagissey bay. Phillippa tuned up her helming skills learnt on the fickle winds of the Norfolk Broads.

The wind gradually built as we passed Mevagissey Bay and caught a fleeting glimpse of a lone dolphin. The kids migrated to the front of the boat and lazed about and read in the sunshine.

The next obstacle was Dodman Point, a fearsome headland in poor weather, with offshore rocks and a terrifying race which has claimed many wrecks over the centuries. We cut the corner a little as the sea was so flat, but the water there was darker and relatively churned up, and our fair tide picked up from half a knot to almost two, pushing us past at over six knots over the ground.

Past Dodman, Veryan Bay opened up, with yet more glorious beaches. A traditional red-sailed gaff rigged yacht made a pleasing contrast to the green headlands.

After a picnic in the cockpit, Lydia returned to the bow of the boat, although as the wind got up she retreated as it became too splashy.

We passed Nare Head, into Gerrans Bay and could see St Anthony's head, marking the entrance to Falmouth.

Martyn finally got a chance to helm, and we took a couple of tacks off shore to get the best angle to approach Falmouth.

Rounding St Anthony's Head we could see the small white lighthouse, and an enticing series of caves on the headland.

We entered Falmouth Harbour between Pendennis Point and the terrifying Black Rock. As it was just after low water we could see part of the large rocky reef on which the warning mark was placed. It took a few attempts to locate pontoon C at Pendennis Marina, and much of the harbour area was very shallow, this being a week of extreme spring tides. But soon we were tied up safely amid some lovely traditional boats, to admire over tea and rocky road.

The Taylors set off for the train station, just 5 mins walk away. It was a glorious afternoon in Falmouth, hot sun even at 1700. Pendennis marina is quite small, tucked in next to the Maritime Museum, but packs quite a punch. Our neighbours on the pontoon included a fleet of 6m racing yachts here for a regatta, and several huge luxury superyachts, some in traditional style, all teak and brass. But the largest by far was a modern brand new super-sized yacht called Heureka, with five sets of spreaders on the mast and enormous boom and sails. The efficient crew confirmed that she had just arrived from Holland and was going through sea trials.

Adrian and I walked out to Pendennis Head to catch the cooling breeze and were taken aback by the beauty of the view back into the harbour, where several fleets of yachts were out for evening races.

#Fowey #Gribbin Head #Dodman Point #Mevagissey #Falmouth #Pendennis Head