Falmouth to Fowey: hills, cliffs and shingle
2 - 4 August
24 miles
After the downpour of Friday, which continued most of the night, I was surprised to see a blue sky and sunshine on Saturday morning. Adrian rigged up the full set of code flags which we had planned to dress Orion with on my birthday - there had been no point doing it on the day as they would have been bedraggled.
We walked out to Pendennis Head, following the path around the castle fortifications, finishing at the small tower at the very tip of the headland - glorious views out to sea.
Later that afternoon, the elite collection of superyachts in Pendennis harbour were joined by an even more illustrious vessel - the enormous schooner Adix, which is apparently the 12th largest sailing yacht in the world - and was built round the corner by Pendennis boatyard. It took a large team onboard and onshore, equipped with walkie talkies to bring her alongside - and of course she attracted a big crowd.
Sunday morning we were up relatively early, and topped up on fuel before motoring into Carrick Roads in light winds and calm seas under blue skies. The views of St Mawes and Pendennis Head were amazing.
Falmouth is a fascinating town, a mix of gritty shipyard and centuries of naval history, plus a glimpse into the lives of the super rich. I’m sure we’ll be back.
We sailed past Portscatho, and the pretty little beach at Rosevine where we’d spent a day with the Taylors three weeks earlier.
As we rounded Dodman point, the skies darkened.
Next was St Austell Bay, with golden beaches giving way to the town sprawl, then the strange shapes of the china clay tips, and finally the brooding grey of Bodmin Moor.
The red and white stripes of the tall daymark on Gribbin Head showed the way into Fowey harbour, once again in slightly gloomy and sombre mood under grey clouds.
We headed up past the Ferry and towards the china clay works, where three large ships awaited their cargo, and secured a mooring at our favourite mini-marina, Mixtow.
After lunch, we embarked on a walk that turned out more ambitious than anticipated. From the Bodinnick Ferry we trudged up a ridiculously steep road past a tiny church, then followed a wooded path, called the “Hall Walk.” In a small clearing in the trees, next to a war monument, we caught an amazing, almost aerial view of the harbour.
The switchback path continued around the headland and along the cliffs above Pont Pill, the creek opposite Fowey Town. There were more vertiginous views, and a monument to Sir Arthur Quiller Couch. Then we descended to a charming footbridge at the head of the creek.
The path climbed again on its way to Polruan, the fishing port opposite Fowey, and provided more aerial views of the moorings.
Polruan has even steeper streets than Fowey, with houses seemingly stacked on top of each other. We stopped for a welcome pot of tea and cake in Crumpets tiny cafe (recommended).
My original plan had been to retrace our steps back to Mixtow, but it was now 1700, so we wimped out and took the Polruan passenger ferry back to Fowey, and then the Bodinnick ferry back to Mixtow. There were a few showers, but the late evening sun shone and we had a welcome glass of wine at the charming cafe bar above Mixtow quay.
Monday was another day of sunshine, and we collected some tasty pasties from the excellent Kittow deli/butchers in Fowey, before catching the Polruan ferry and climbing up the steep streets to follow the coast path east. The views back to Gribbin Head were worth the ascent.
On the highest point of the Polruan headland was a fragment of an 8th Century church, and next to it a tiny lookout cottage, complete with windscreen wipers on its seaward windows, manned by the volunteer coastwatch team.
We followed the coast path through open heathland, past already ripening blackberries and up shady but exhaustingly steep paths, until we reached Lantic Bay.
Far below us was an enticing golden beach, and we could just make out a couple of figures and a steep diagonal path on the wooded green cliff. So we thought it might make a good picnic spot.
It was a steeper descent than we had anticipated, but a good challenge. The beach itself was shingle - fine and nearly sandlike at the back, and a ridge of tiny rounded pebbles near the cool clear breakers. It was hard to walk on, and in my haste to cool my feet I was surprised - and soaked - by a rogue large wave. But it was warm enough to dry out while we consumed our pasties and tried not to think too much about the climb back up after lunch.
The beach soon started to fill up with intrepid families, bringing surprising amounts of gear for such a tough climb. And a couple of yachts anchored off the beach.
The return ascent was hot but not as tortured as we had feared, and we were soon following the high coast path back to Polruan for a welcome drink from the Lugger Inn and the ferry home.
After a couple of hours to recover, we were amused to see the steam launch chugging past us, delivering guests to a private party at the Mixtow cafe.
We had a final dinner in Fowey at an excellent South Indian restaurant, Sunny Spice, highly recommended, and caught a late passenger ferry back to Bodinnick in the dark. As we returned, one of the china clay ships was tugged out to sea, sitting low in the water with its heavy cargo.
