Crazy for crowlers - 3 beers bought in bulk from Hell’s Basement and Boiling Oar
I love crowlers, which are one of my many discoveries from this year of Alberta beer. Were it not for this remarkable fill-on-demand technology, I could not have tried this week's great beers.
With my growler already occupied, I needed an inexpensive alternative when I found Boiling Oar on tap at Sherbrooke Liquor. And, knowing I wouldn't be able to visit Medicine Hat this year, the challenge of getting beer from Hell's Basement was solved by a co-worker’s trip to see family. Thank you @deckershelly.
And thank you Oskar Blues Brewery, inventor of the crowler and changer of the craft beer world forever. I raise a toast to you - with beers I might not have been able to drink otherwise.
Polly's Pale Ale Hell's Basement Brewery 5% ABV
Since Guy, the drummer in our band, grew up in Medicine Hat, I had to bring him some hometown brews. Between songs, we all agreed that this is one of our favourite pale ales being made in the province today.
Polly’s Pale Ale pours a rich copper colour with a loose tan head and a mild citrus scent. That citrus translates into a bit of zip (Guitar Colin preferred to call it “zing”) to balance a biscuit malt that leverages soft toffee to delicious effect. Grapefruit takes over at the end, pushed along by mint that makes way for a lingering bitterness.
I imagine this one would get a little sweeter as it warms, but that is a hypothesis that remains to be tested. My portion of the crowler did not last long enough for me to find out.
Paddle Wheel Pilsner Hell's Basement Brewery 5% ABV
After proving themselves with big styles like IPA, stouts and porters, Alberta brewers seem to be embracing the idea of making simpler styles their own. For me, pilsner is one of those styles, and one of my favourites.
The malt on this golden beer smells of copper, an oddly pleasant metallic smell that I sometimes get from grains. Guitar Colin swears he smelled fruit, "peach nuances" in particular.
The flavour, however, is fruitless. It is crisp and light, and has the bright sweetness of toffee combined with a cracks of pepper, making it an excellent non-craft-dad beer - that is, easily accessible. The hops bitterness remains subdued until the finish, when it leaves a slightly astringent aftertaste.
Between this and the pale ale, Hell's Basement shows such promise that I feel guilty telling you about them, because their beer will remain hard to get. When I emailed to ask if any would soon make it to Edmonton liquor stores, the response, sadly, was no. “Medicine Hat keeps drinking us dry," wrote an owner.
I recommend making friends with someone from the city. Not just for the beer, of course - “Hatters” are fine people. But it wouldn't hurt to tell them that crowlers make excellent gifts.
Kolsch Boiling Oar Brewing Company 4.9% ABV
Sometimes I get the impression from craft beer drinkers that kolsch is German for boring. In the wrong hands, the style can indeed be too subtle to be taken seriously.
But we've seen the power of kolsch before - recall Alley Kat's big win for Scona Gold at the 2015 Canadian Brewing Awards. With Boiling Oar's take, we see something similar.
The simply named Kolsch is the palest gold with a fizzy, stubborn head, as if it is suggesting itself to be a beer with presence. It is. The mild scent is a tropical and unorthodox combination papaya, guava and pineapple that masks any malt aroma.
The flavour gets back to basics, even if briefly. It starts with crisp, light cereal notes - refreshing and easy as a kolsch should be. Before the drinker can take it for granted, however, a touch of honey drops in, coupled with a bite of ginger. The ale leaves you with a minty aftertaste, a product, perhaps of Old World hops.
Combined with the price - $8.05 for a crowler (it was still on tap at the time of writing) - the understated but unusual flavour of Boiling Oar’s kolsch make it a must-try for anyone looking for a refreshing, easy-going beer.