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Bespoke suit - the Young Gun style | ICON BESPOKE

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Your first custom suit: 5 things you must know before buying

The suit is likely the most complicated clothing purchase you will ever make, but that means the experience is also the most rewarding. A suit that fits perfectly boosts confidence both in and out of the workplace. 

Looking good helps you earn more respect from your partners and co-workers. A sharp look, therefore, can be considered a secret weapon in both the social and business worlds, so it’s time to think about your suits on a deeper level. 

These tips will help you make the right choice when it comes to ordering your first custom suit.

1. Find an experienced tailor

There are many tailors in small shops who have never learned how to make a proper suit. While they may be skilled enough at hemming or repairing clothes, the skill required to make a suit is different. 

Choosing the wrong tailor might lead to wasting money on a baggy, ill-fitted suit that is no better than an off-the-rack option. 

Be sure to use a tailor with a track record of good service, a large base of loyal customers, and at least 10+ years of experience.

2. Understand the options: Made-To-Measure/Custom/Bespoke

When it comes to tailoring, the terms and vocabulary can be confusing to the average Joe. However, understanding the language of suit-making is critical to making the right choice. In general, there are three common ways a suit could be made: Made-to-measure (M2M), Custom, and Bespoke.

M2M - The tailor uses an existing pattern that is likely to fit the client’s body. It is made as close as possible to the customer’s size and shape. While faster to make and cheaper than the other types, the downside is that those with unusual measurements may find the final result awkward. Also, the variety of fabrics is usually limited and only certain adjustments and customizations can be made.

Custom - These suits are usually made by a local tailor who takes 10-15 measurements of the customer’s body to create an original suit. Most custom suits are made in Asia, where tailors usually make garments one size bigger to be sure that they will fit the customer. This option is one step above off-the-rack.

Bespoke - For Bespoke suits, the tailor creates a new pattern each time a suit is made. It usually takes 2-3 fittings, 30+ measurements, and 1 month for the finished product. The variety of fabrics and cuts is huge. There is also no limit to the options, regardless of complexity. Bespoke custom suits are the most complex suit of all, and they are usually made by European tailors who have been in business several generations.

3. Pick the right fabric

For a man picking out his first custom suit, wool is a great choice due to its versatility and refined aesthetic. It breathes well and can be worn in both warm and cool temperatures. It is a soft fabric that tends not to wrinkle. 

Suit fabrics are classified as Super 100S, 140S, 160S, and so on. The numbers represent how many times the worsted wool has been twisted when it was made. The higher the number, the finer and lighter the garment will be. Higher numbers also mean the suit will be more expensive. 

The only downside of the finest super wools is that they don’t keep their shape very well and require extra care. These suits won’t last long if worn regularly. Your best bet for a first-time custom business suit would be in the 140S to 160S range.

4. Work with a stylist

Due to the variety of options available, finding the look that suits you best can be a painful process. To make it faster and easier, we suggest working with an experienced stylist. A stylist will make sure that your first suit is designed taking your personality and lifestyle into account. Tailors are not necessary great stylists, especially when it comes to creating personal brands for their clients. 

A well made custom suit should create an image that reflects who you are, what you do, and what you are trying to accomplish. Therefore, having a stylist help you come up with the perfect look is essential for getting the biggest bang for your buck.

5. Know your budget

Staying in budget and getting the best deal for what you can afford is very important when deciding on a suit. If you’re buying off-the-rack, a reasonable price would be around $600-700. This is because of limitations in customization and fabric quality. 

If you’re willing to spend somewhere between $700 and $1200, it would be better to go with the M2M option, as it will give you room for customization and a better fitting suit. 

Bespoke suits start at $2000. This is because they are not just a suit but an investment in your personal brand. Regardless of the price, you should check the tailor before ordering a Bespoke suit. 

Poor quality Bespoke tailors can sometimes be worse than a talented M2M company, regardless of the number of fittings.

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Custom sport jacket by ICON BESPOKE | the Wayne style

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Custom made suits by ICON BESPOKE

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Custom suit by ICON BESPOKE | the Gekko Style

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The Player street style. Custom sport jacket by ICON BESPOKE

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Bespoke suit the Young Gun style | ICON BESPOKE

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3 Piece Bespoke Suit | The Gekko Style | ICON BESPOKE