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Every time I watch Ai Mori climb, I have the thought "she would have won if she had just an inch or two more reach." But this isn't true. If she was taller, or had longer arms, she would not climb like Ai Mori. She would climb like someone else. And who knows how well that other theoretical Ai would climb?
It's beautiful how people's unique bodies sculpt their unique style of climbing, allowing space for both their weaknesses and their strengths to shine through.
happy world cup season !
need to mentally prepare myself for the sport climbing commentator's for the olympics because the ones for tokyo 2021 were atrociously incompetent
my favourite (derogatory) lines were:
- it's visually appealing... especially to the eye
- they've got fingers as strong as legs
- it's upside down, back to front, arm burning chess... against youself
- a gaston: an upside down undercling??
- round sloppy holds are tiresome on the forearms
- the change of grip from underarm to overarm, to squeezing, to finger holds
Though Palestine is now eligible for international climbing competitions, questions remain on what the future looks like.
It remained unclear on Tuesday when or how Palestine’s climbers could compete, such as in the upcoming Olympic games in Paris. The participants for the 2024 Olympic Games’ men’s and women’s competitions have yet to be finalized. Two qualifier events remain: Shanghai (May 16-19) and Budapest (June 20-23).
Israel — also a member of the IFSC — has waged an increasingly bloody war in Palestine after a terrorist attack from Hamas in October killed more than 1,000 Israelis.
Since then, Israel’s military incursion into Palestine has resulted in more than 29,000 Palestinian casualties.
Here is Bisharat’s statement in full:
I have immense respect for Hiba Shaheen, president of the Palestine Climbing Association, for her leadership and advocacy on behalf of Palestinian climbers. Of course, it’s nearly impossible for me at the moment to summon a genuine desire to celebrate this decision, as I watch the world sit back and simply just allow Israel to continue its brutal genocide and ethnic cleansing campaign against the Palestinian people. Given the IFSC took less than a week to decide to ban Russia for transgressing international law when it invaded Ukraine, I must question why — after more than 4 months of this century’s deadliest massacre in which almost 30,000 people, mostly women and children, have been slaughtered — why the IFSC and the IOC haven’t yet taken similar actions against Israel and its partners in genocide, including the United States. The IFSC would be wise to recall the history of how sporting organizations helped bring about the end of apartheid in South Africa through athlete boycotts. I want to celebrate the IFSC for welcoming Palestinian climbers onto the world comp climbing stage for the first time, but I would also like to use this moment to encourage the IFSC to do more by taking a strong stand against Israel’s illegal occupation and criminal genocide.
IFSC did not return requests for comment.
JANJA GARNBRET at Innsbruck Boulder Finals 2023
bonus:
I’m liveblogging the Innsbruck World Cup Lead Finals (men’s and women’s)
For the fourth consecutive year, the legendary Kletterzentrum in Innsbruck, Austria, welcomes the best Boulder and Lead climbers in the worl
🌀ooo you wanna watch climbing with me so badddd🌀
sports are so weird because people take luck and treat it as if it's personal accomplishment.
whether or not you have the right genetics, environment, money, location, or family are some of the factors that create the person who is "best" at something.
but it's still really fun to see someone find the thing that they're lucky to be good at and see them be the best in the world at it.