One of the standard tourist attractions of Hue are the imperial tombs which surround the city. While most city tours hit two of the most impressive (those of Minh Mang and Khai Dinh), I decided that I had enough time to take the day and go to all six, plus the biggest pagoda in the area, Thien Mu. I hired a moto driver for the day through my hostel, and we set off at around 9 a.m. Unfortunately, despite clearly stating that I wanted to start at the pagoda (the nearest point to my hostel), the driver said okay and promptly took me in exactly the opposite direction. When we arrived in a small town, I asked him if we were going to the pagoda (although clearly we weren't), and his response was "I breakfast first." Awesome. Perhaps if this had been a last minute thing, it would have been less irritating, but not only had it been planned in advance, he also turned up half an hour earlier than planned and ended up rushing me to leave. Now generally, this is due to the fact that drivers get a free meal if they get their clients to eat at certain restaurants, but he didn't even try to make me eat; apparently he just didn't want to have to drive to this town for breakfast, into Hue, and back out again. He urged me to go and walk around by waving his hands and saying "you picture, you picture," until I did just that to appease him. It took me all of two minutes to grab some photos of the town and get back to the restaurant, where I felt no guilt about sitting and staring rather pointedly at his meal until he stopped trying to talk me into going to an extra tomb that I hadn't planned on going to, and started eating at a reasonable speed.
Again, I finally agreed to go to the tomb just to appease him, after assurances that I would have plenty of time to see everything that I had originally wanted to, and we set off for the tomb of Emperor Gia Long, the furthest point on the map from my hostel. After a long drive down very bumpy unpaved roads, too small for any car to go on (or at least any car with a sane driver), we arrived at the rather unimpressive building that houses the bodies of Gia Long and his second wife. His first wife is buried in a separate building next door. Although a bit unkempt, it did have some interesting statues that put me in mind of the Chinese terra cotta warriors. After this, we went to the tombs of Minh Mang, Khai Dinh, Thieu Tri, Tu Duc, and Dong Khanh. The first two, the grandest and best preserved, I paid to go into; the latter three I made do with taking some photos from outside. At $4 a pop, quite a chunk of money by Vietnamese standards, I figured I could live without seeing another tomb that looked more or less like a dozen other 19th century buildings I've seen since arriving in Vietnam. Our final stop was the Thien Mu pagoda, a tall building overlooking the river. The pagoda itself wasn't overly large or even particularly impressive, but the grounds surrounding it (including the monks' living quarters) were wonderfully quiet and peaceful.
After the pagoda it was back to the hostel, where I reveled being in air-conditioning for a few hours before joining a new Italian friend on a trip to the night market. It wasn't massive (at least not by Hanoi's standards, my only comparison), but it had some interesting knick knacks and good food. We opted for a frozen yogurt dessert, that was literally yogurt, semi-frozen, in a plastic ziploc-type bag with a straw stuck inside and tied off with a rubber band. It was actually really refreshing. On our way back to the hostel, we stopped and grabbed a drink with another friend of hers that we ran into on the street, and then it was back to rest up for my DMZ tour, which would come far too early the next morning.