What's in my bag this fall, including my favorite J.G. Melon hat.
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What's in my bag this fall, including my favorite J.G. Melon hat.
J.G. Melon: It Takes The Village
GREENWICH VILLAGE, NYC | For those of you who were worried that the new Greenwich Village J.G. Melon couldn't possibly be the same vibe/feel as the UES location—well, you're right. It isn't, but how could it.
How do you open a place—even a duplicate of the original—in a completely different NYC neighborhood, and expect it to feel as "lived in" and familiar as the place where many of us have been going to for decades with our grandparents, our parents, and now, for many of us (you), our own kids?
Of course, you don't. And it doesn't seem the team helming the new space is trying to at all either. The neighborhood demographic is too different to evoke any deep-rooted nostalgia from us natives, yet the folks of lower Manhattan no less deserve a proudly tenured, highly esteemed, and perfectly uncomplicated delicious NYC burger.
And on that front, the new J.G. team succeeds, having extended themselves making sure the meat, grinding equipment, produce, grills, cheeses—and even the delivery process of them all—is exactly the same as has been the decades-long process for the UES burger tavern favorite.
And it's not like most UESers will make even a remote habit or routine of trekking out of their (very) comfort(able) zone down to MacDougal Street for the exact same burger they can throw on some Ralph Lauren pajama pants and slippers and go across the street for. Yorkvillians should actually be happy that in all greater probability, the tourists and Yelpers are far more likely to now skip coming uptown in favor of being just blocks away the Washington Square Park and Blue Man Group—making the "element" left still going to uptown Melon's more "their own"
Finally, the verdict on the burger? You'll be happy (relieved?) to know that the burger and cottage fries are near vintage Melon's. The cottage fries were nicely airy of the inside, and held it's exterior crispiness throughout the 10 minutes it took me to scarf down my cheeseburger. As for the burger, the loosely-packed beef patty (mine cooked to medium rare) and was properly and recognizingly flavorful and crumbly, running with clear, nearly aromatic juices.
My one negative was that I would have preferred the burger more "front-salted"—as I told the waiter and floor manager. That's a very difficult thing to master—and maybe the original Melon's has long ben benefitting from having a flattop grill seasoned from years and years of cooking burgers (and bacon) on it. It would have been the palate pick-me-up that I've always liked about the original J.G burgers, that slight salinity to the smokey, slightly charred exterior. The snappy pickle slices added the right amount of salt and acid, the onions heady, snappy bite, and the barely toasted bun as usual maintained its soft integrity (just) to the very last bite, soaking up the beef juices without fully disintegrating.
This day in late July when I visited, it was also National Cheesecake Day, and as one of the new operators of the downtown local is from Magnolia Bakery, it is no surprise to see the bakery's wares on Melon's dessert menu, including a smooth, creamy yet firm, very pleasant vanilla bean cheesecake that sat on a moist yet still crunchy graham cracker crust.
So after that very full and satiating meal, I can inform you all that not only am I satisfied from the meal, but also satisfied with the knowledge that the original J.G. Melon's is in no danger of changing, and that Greenwich Village has a new change it can hope to have around for generations itself.
(Hopefully they realize how lucky they are sooner than later—the restaurant-friendly room is more spacious than its 74th Street counterpoint, and unlike it as well, the starting-to-gather crowd were largely situated at the bar for drinks, the rest just settling into tables for grub—I, the only one sitting outside. I also may have been the only customer above 40 years of age, which is not at all surprising realizing I was in NYU central.)
Or at least have an option for a top-notch, old school NYC tavern burger, without having to pay over twice as much for one a block away at Minetta Tavern!
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J.G. MELON | 89 Macdougal St., New York, NY 10012 | (212) 460-0900 | jgmelonnyc.com
A group of diehard fans let their prep flags fly at the opening of the first Vineyard Vines Manhattan store last night. See the full gallery here.
Dec. 28, 2011. J.G. Melon.
Melon's.
BURGER FEVER - THE HUNT FOR THE BEST BURGER IN NYC
I like to consider myself somewhat of a burger aficionado. I'm not afraid to get messy, chow down, and nom on some serious bun-filling deliciousness. And I'm not talking veggie burgers and turkey patties - I'm talking quality ground beefy, juicy, meat.
According to Wikipedia, it was here in New York City where the hamburger was first featured on a printed menu, at a restaurant called Delmonico's. The history behind the burger itself is a bit sketchy. The term hamburger comes from Hamburg, Germany... but minced meat was actually considered a delicacy throughout Europe as early as the 15th century. I don't know about how much of a "delicacy" the hamburger is in most circles anymore, as it is limited usually to summer cook outs and quick fixes on the run. By the 18-19th century the hamburger had become a standard meal for the lower classes, as it was typically found in seaport towns and immigrant communities such as Hamburg. German's "simply flavored shredded low-grade beef with regional spices [...]" and it was eaten both cooked and raw.
The American version of the hamburger is attributed to Feltcher Davis, who sold hamburgers at his restaurant in Athens, Texas, and then later at the 1904 World's Fair. Apparently, a New York Times interview with McDonald's from 1974 confirms that it was Davis who created the hamburger. Other research documents the "invention" of the hamburger all across the United States. Hamburg, New York is one hotspot for the burger battle. As are Wisconsin, Oklahoma, and Connecticut.
Well I don't care where the burger was invented or when. I care about who can build upon it, improve it, and make it the most appealing for this indulgent child of the city that never sleeps.
I've tried burgers (and fries, obvi) at the standards like J.G. Melon's, and just about every diner in Manhattan. And I still pray for the day when In & Out makes its way East... So here's a comprehensive list of where I've been, where I'd go again, and where I wouldn't dare burg my ham. Lets start at the bottom and work our way up, shall we?
POP Burger: This is a sorry excuse for a burger place. The idea is simple enough - a fast food restaurant where you can get an easy meal to go or to stay and consume quickly. Two sliders come compartmentalized in a cute little box, but that's about as exciting as it gets. At about $8 a pop (no pun intended) you can get 2 hot dogs, chicken burger, shrimp sandwiches, or the standard POP burgers... But there's no pop in their service. Delivery or in house, the employees take their sweet time. I've waited longer than the average person should for "fast food." Though topped with fresh shredded lettuce, a tomato slice, and an appropriate helping of POP sauce, the burgers are consistently dry and somewhat tasteless. The sandwiches are certainly not worth their price, nor are the sides. The french fries aren't the worst, but one serving will set you back $3.75.
BRGR: The concept of BRGR is brilliant - simple, quick and tasty burgers, all made in an environmentally friendly way. The beef they use is from grass-fed cows, and the ingredients are organic. They have three different turkey burgers, one vegetarian option, six different types of hamburgers or you could design your own combination. Their milkshakes are delicious and if you're feeling like filling up on fried sides you can order The Trio, which is a combo of their hand cut russet potato french fries, sweet potato fries, and onion "hay". If you're on the run or in a bind and need a quick meal, I'd say BRGR is a decent option. I will say though, that I have been disappointed with the quality of their sandwiches. I once ordered a turkey burger, and though it tasted good and filled me up, it was quite salty and I found myself chugging water for the rest of the day. The Magnificent Meadow Burger, topped with swiss, mushrooms, ketchup, tomato, pickles and lettuce is a solid choice - but like most of the options on the menu, the toppings overwhelm the burger, which isn't all that impressive anyway. Not fantastic, but not terrible either. Just be prepared to hydrate after eating. And before. And during...
Shake Shack: Were it not for the ever-present line, Shake Shack could be a serious contender. They do what POP Burger can't, and that's make line-cooked fast food appealing. A self proclaimed "modern day 'roadside' burger stand," Shake Shack is pretty much worth the wait. The burgers are decently sized and affordable, ranging from $3.50 - $8.50, and the other menu options are just as cost effective and tasty. I wouldn't normally recommend it to someone looking for a burger treat, but it's a definite winner in terms of a "New York experience." It's worth trying at least once, but not my first choice when I'm jonesing for a hamburgler.
NY Burger Co.: In the same vein as POP and Shake Shack, NY Burger Co. is one of the better burgers you can get. Their sandwiches are worth the cost, and the restaurant churns out all sorts of combinations to please any appetite. Their fries are pretty great, but have a chance of arriving soggy or soft. A good standby, but still not quite at the level of "favorite" or "best" for me.
Astro Diner: Simply a good hamburger. They get everything right. The burgers are large, the fries are big and crispy, and the rest of the diner-standards they serve up are just as good. My father is a big fan of their tuna melt. If you're in midtown and need a place to rest your bum and fill your tum, Astro is a sure thing.
B&B: Here is where they up the ante and brings the standard burger to a more formal and reputable level. Burger & Barrel is a gastropub where you can pair your burger with a fine wine and nobody thinks twice about the seemingly odd combination. Topped with delicious and interesting combinations like sundried tomato pesto, carmelized onion and bacon "jam," or roasted chili and red onion relish, each hamburger is an experience in itself. Delicious, indulgent, filling and satisfying, this is one of the better burgers I've had in the city.
P.J. Clarke's: A solid staple in midtown, P.J. Clarke's is a classic go-to. Usually populated by the after-work suited crowd, the menu at Clarke's is simple but vast. They have everything from oysters to chili, and not once have I been disappointed with anything I've ordered. The beauty of Clarke's is the fact that their burgers are standard, but you don't feel like yours has been rushed out to you from a sweaty line. It's not quite a formal place, but it's not a sty either. So the burgers are wonderfully normal - cooked to perfection, not over garnished, not pretentious, but not just slapped on a bun and plated. A P.J. Clarke burger is definitely a must on a burger tour of NYC. This is a place I'd come back to again and again.
J.G. Melon: Like P.J. Clarke's, J.G. Melon is another city staple and a must visit for any burger fan. The burgers are most certainly worth the wait (it can reach 45 minutes to an hour), and MUCH more so than at the Shake Shack. This is where they do classic and old-school just right. The service is fast, and I've never spent more than an hour at a table - nor have I ever even looked at a menu. What's the point of ordering anything else on the menu except maybe a slice of pie at the end of your meal!? You go here for the burgers and nothing else, except maybe the unusual melon-themed decor. I highly recommend topping this one with everything - cheese, bacon, raw onion, lettuce, tomato, ketchup, mustard, mayo and pickles. And never ever get a burger here without a side of fries. These little ridged potato rounds are heavenly - always cooked perfectly, and especially delicious when dipped in the BBQ sauce... which, by the way, is the best I've ever had.
The Burger Joint: Ah, the once hidden gem and my automatic answer when asked about the best burger in the city. Now a well known and overpopulated spot, this is literally a hole in the wall burger joint. Their menu only features hamburgers or cheese burgers, french fries, soda, water, beer, milkshakes, and brownies. Make sure you know what you want when you get to the counter - the servers have a reputation of sending people to the back of the line if they aren't prepared. Trust me, you don't wanna be at the back of any line at this place. It's L.O.N.G. Anyway, I'd suggest going for a regular hamburger, medium rare, with the works and a side of fries. I have, on occasion, ordered two burgers and finished them both. They're just that good... and, size-wise, it's possible to manage two. Unfortunately, it's a victim of location, situated a) in a hotel, b) in midtown, c) surrounded by businesses, d) close to central park... so you're fighting against tourists and corporate types for your chance at that golden nugget of burger. The Burger Joint would absolutely top my list of all time favorite and best burgers - this is where I discovered my love for pickles on burgers, where I figured out the amazingness that is a combination of ketchup, mustard and mayo. But it's gotten so much hype that it's near impossible to eat there anymore. If you venture to this little slice of burger heaven, I suggest going midweek and a random hour, like 11am or 4pm.
Dumont Burger: A little over a month ago I went to this lovely little place in Brooklyn... and it was there where I had one of the best hamburgers I've ever eaten. It's a cozy and quaint restaurant, set up much like a cafe. It's very... "Brooklyn." Small, but not cramped, it's pleasant and fun. A good neighborhood spot! So, on to the important stuff. The burger itself was a perfect medium rare - cooked enough outside but still juicy in the center. All their burgers are served on grilled brioche bread which is savory and perfect - not too sweet or dry, and so much more fun than your average bun! I enjoyed my little burger creature topped with swiss cheese, lettuce, red onion and their house made pickles which can only be described as heavenly. As a pickle fan - on and off a burger - this is what won me over at Dumont Burger. These are no regular pickles. They are both sweet and salty at the same time, and have a taste reminiscent of freshly made coleslaw. It added a completely unexpected but incredible level of flavor to the entire sandwich. I'd have to say this is my new favorite hamburger in all of New York. The one and only negative thing about this restaurant is the fact that the main communal table is situated directly in front of the entrance. Because it was freezing the night I went, every time the door opened a gust of wind blew right through the place, and sent me shivering over and over again. I'd say this is a more ideal spot for warmer weather (when they set up outdoor seating!), or when it's empty and you have your choice of table far from the door.
So, friends and followers, there you have it. A rundown of the best and worst burgers I've had in this fine city of mine. So... what about you!?
What is your favorite burger place and why?
xx