#jeff sippel

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Jeff Sippel, Warm Light, from the portfolio Drawn to Stone, lithograph, Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of The University of Tennessee, Knoxville Print Workshop, 1998.156.23, © 1998, Jeffrey L. Sippel

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Solar plate for etching

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My professor’s etching

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MOKULITO: ABRIDGED

Mokulito uses wood as a printing matrix instead of limestone. This technique was developed by Ozaku Schisi, professor from the University of Tama Bijutsu, Japan in the 1970's. Josef Budka has realized further development of this printing process in Poland.  His daughter, Ewa Budka presented the process in collaboration with Jeffery Sippel.Ewa says that this process is for the artist who is not afraid of power and drawing. Jeff highlights the benefits of mokulito as being simple, straightforward, accessible, and economical.

This was by far my favorite demo today! Ewa's energy and excitement was infectious! She was buzzing around the studio,from one direction to the next encouraging members in the audience to come forward and get their hands dirty! Some helped prepare the surface of the wood, others drew onto the matrix, etc. I was amazed by the fact that you could use wood as a matrix to do lithography, granted that this printing process lends itself more towards monotype, but the results are interesting to say the least.

Below is a "how-to" on this printing process.

MOKULTIO: ABRIDGED

(1) Choose a surface to work on, plywood is good. Ewa recommends maple plywood, and to stray from pine. Different woods yield different results. Experiment!

(2) Grain the surface of the wood with sandpaper 220 grit, in a small circular motion, but do it fast! You want the surface of the wood to be nice and smooth. Polished!

(3) Draw onto the surface of the wood with any greasy substance, litho crayons, tusche, sharpie oil paint markers, or cut into the wood with wood cutting tools.

(4) Etch the drawing with gum arabic. Apply the gum with a sponge and allow it to dry for at least a day (although a few hours is good too, but the longer the better). Once it’s dry, wash out the gum arabic with cold water.

(5) Ink up the wood in the same way that you would a litho stone, but replace a roller with one of those nice cheap foam rollers from your local hardware store. The ink should be loose (not tacky). Ewa likes to use etching inks (due to their consistency) but any ink will do.

(6) Print!

Points to consider:

After you've etched the wood, and removed the gum arabic you need to print immediately. If I remember correctly, you cannot "close" the matrix and start printing again later. Also, you cannot re-sand the wood to make a new image or delete or make additions after the wood is etched. If you are using tusche, take care to allow it to fully dry before etching. The ink of the oil sharpie markers (depending on the color) will transfer to your print. The first impression is typically light, toss it, increase pressure/inking.During the printing process maintain the wood moist but not too wet and roll fast.

If you have any questions, comments, or concerns, don't be afraid to drop us a line! I'd be more than happy to answer any questions or doubts.

-- JAKI