stockholm fashion week: jennifer blom
(images via fashion inquisitive)
i'd like to start out my commentary on jennifer blom's s/s 2012 collection in a different vein than usual, by first pointing out that i've been excessively distressed by the entirely too whitewashed catwalks of stockholm fashion week. to be sure, we've seen a model of colour here or there (and mostly of asian descent), but the rather unpleasant truth has been in how many shows have been composed of a fully white cast, with nary a shade to be seen beyond the blonde and blonder combinations. thus, ms. blom was ever the revolutionary in opening her show with a black model. some may see it as a sad day that we have to congratulate designers for casting a single black girl among their crew, but...progress? perhaps?...let's applaud it for what it is in the face of the rest of the event.
a 2007 graduate of beckmans college of design (see some opt coverage for their f/w 2011 student work), ms. blom previously worked for h&m before launching her signature label in 2010 (i always wonder that some of these kids don't get experience from the 'fast fashion' labels before graduating to high fashion; it seems an interesting preparation for this world). thus, the spring season is the designer's first foray onto the catwalk (although her second real collection), with the fashion blog rodeo pointing out that, in eager anticipation for some fresh blood at the event, the audience was completely full.
titled 'it - invisible terrestrial,' the designer's press release submitted to the mbfws site explains that "(f)lowy silk dresses in organic draping and colours are inspired by the corals in the clear oceans. Through the surface she saw the beautiful colours of corals and mysterious sea creatures. Sadly these corals are no longer visible today because of mans pollution. The beauty of the collection is there to remind us of an ocean that will be lost unless we start paying attention."
keeping in line with the surprising move in sweden this season to show bright shades, pops of magenta, indigo, seafoam green, ultramarine, and pale blue alongside underwater-esque floral abstracts made up the range palette. chiffon and silk were the primary materials, and complex, almost unschooled-looking drapes (a la vivienne westwood, whom one couldn't help but think had been a strong inspiration) provided the main embellishments, while strappy sandals seemed to sprout coral and ocean vegetation as the models trotted them down the catwalk.
although there were a few cocktail frocks and even a swimsuit, red carpet dressing seemed the focus of the collection, with billowing pantsuits and gowns comprising the majority of the offerings (and often featured with a coordinating scarf or wrap). the designer was undoubtedly at her best when she sought to minimize the complications, presenting a simpler drape unfettered by too many tucks and additional swathes of fabric (as is the case in the fluid minty jumpsuit, at bottom). the exits that featured a belt (as the cobalt-blue dress, above) and adventurous folds simply overwhelmed themselves and appeared fussy and overbearing.
i was rather surprised to read the usually-informative-and-thus-far-not-particularly-critical rodeo blog's slam of the range (trans): " the silhouettes do not work, there are threads that hang from the waistbands, and seams crack or are poorly sewn, draperies have no special features, and patterns and color range are outdated." this was much harsher than i would have cared to be, but they aren't completely off-base in some critiques: in short, i would say that i did like the colours and general idea, but ms. blom was too enthusiastic, and would benefit from some careful editing of each piece, as she obviously did for the look below. okay. we know now that she's got it, and she's young, so we ought give her some time. i'm fairly certain the fall collection will have her work much improved indeed.
(watch the full catwalk presentation video here)
