The train from Varanasi to New Jalpaiguri was one of the worst journeys so far and one that I won't grace with any further thought. After the train came a 6 hour jeep ride up through the West Bengali hills, the dry, flat landscape slowly changed to green fields, then rugged forest hills and then up further into the tea plantations of Darjeeling.
Darjeeling sits 2,135 meters above sea level (Britain's highest peak, Ben Nevis, is only 1,334 meters). It was originally developed by the British in 1835, after it's position was identified for strategic importance. Now, it's main population is Nepalese and the signs 'Welcome to Gorkahland' welcome you as you arrive. The change of landscape, weather and laid back people make Darjeeling a world apart from the India I've visited so far. It's an excellent place to kill time and re-charge batteries, soaking up the mountains over a cup of Darjeeling's local tea.
The mountains dominate the horizon. The main attraction is Khangchendzonga, India's highest peak and the worlds 3rd highest mountain at 8598 meters. It sits to the North of Darjeeling, tucked away in Sikkim on the India/Nepal border. There's some good view points in and around town, one of them being Tiger Hill, which you're meant to visit at sunrise, but my travel buddy, Andrea, and I went at sunset, rebellious, but the light was still good and instead of 200+ Bengali tourists there was just us and our jeep driver. He also pointed out Everest in the distance, not as striking as Khangchendzonga from our position, but still felt good seeing it in the flesh.
Darjeeling also is the home of the Indian Mountaineering Institute, as many a Nepali mountaineer is based here. None more famous as Tenzing Norgay, who, from my limited knowledge, is a very cool dude, being one of the first two men to reach the peak of Everest in 1953. He'd also got within 800 meters the year before and successfully reached it's peak again in 1954. Kudos Tenzing. There are many statues and plaques of respect for him dotted around Darjeeling and in the Mountaineering Institutes museum. Next to this is Derjeeling's zoo, which is meant to be one of India's finest, but It wasn't too special. I did see some Red Pandas, Sikkims national animal, up close though.
Darjeeling was just what was needed. A calming, European-style town. There's not many sights too rush around seeing like Rajasthan, you just look out the window of whatever cafe you're sat in, the dusty world of dirty cities, rickshaws and beggars really does seem a long way away from here. Next up I'm heading north to Sikkimto do some trekking around. I'm leaving half of my stuff in Darjeeling and will be coming back to spend a few days before leaving for the south.