Chatting with an independent full-bust lingerie designer:
There are challenges there for any brand that wants to develop wired bras. It’s an inventory nightmare when you think of all of the sizes that need to be produced. Factories have minimums of how many per size, style and colour they will make. If you’re only focusing on GG+ there’s still a large range of sizes to produce, and you’ll want different options for styles and colours, so you’re looking at a huge investment in stock. The alternative to that is sewing each piece yourself as needed, but then you likely can’t take returns as a designer, nor will it be as affordable as the commercial brand already widely available, and you’ll need to invest in all of the equipment to make the bra to a professional standard yourself. You need to consider the stronger wires, stronger shoulder strap elastics, which all have high minimums, and the costs add up really quick to get your designs into production. You need to have a clear path to retailing the product so there’s room for more and new product for the next season, if you’re keeping to the traditional fashion season model.
Let’s put this example together: ABC Bra Company wants to make 30 – 42F, FF, G, GG, H, HH, J, JJ & K. That’s 7 band sizes and 9 cup sizes, so that’s 63 bra sizes. Chances are, you’ll want different strap widths on your 30F vs. your 42K, as well as different widths of hooks and eyes, so more components for your inventory, each with a minimum order. Not to mention, your factory has to make, say at least 5 bras in each size, in each colour you want to produce. So, for one style and one colour, we’re looking at 315 bras, up that to two styles in two colours each, and we’re at 1,260 pieces. As an indie, can you sell all of those? Keep in mind you probably had to buy your wires in 500 or 1,000 pairs, in the 15 cross-grade sizes to make your collection. A big investment, where in some sizes, you’re only going to use a handful of the wires.
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INTRODUCING KIMTIMATES: AN INTERVIEW WITH DESIGNER KIM HAMILTON