Part 2: wetworks, gluing and sewing
How do we get the leather to stick?
On earlier builds I've used woodglue on wet leather which worked out fine. This time however, I tried contact glue instead. It sets even harder, but you have less time to work, so you'll have to be quick. I started with the front, using a whalebone to do a first press on the zigzags before the glue hardened. The whalebone is also used to sort of rub the leather in place on the edges around the wood core, so it stays even.
Then I glued the back, leaving a bit of the leather unglued so I could have some room for both cutting a straight line down the back of the scabbard to make it even and to be able to sew the back together.
The point is always a tricky bit, so I always leave it to be cut for last. Sadly I didn't take any pictures of the process.
With the leather glued on, now for the fun part: forming the leather!
I have not yet sat down to learn how to properly cut leather and to do pretty patterns, so right now I work with risers under the leather covering, trying to do nice things with those. Also I'm terrible at sketching and drawing, so we'll see how it turns out the day I decide to try. :')
Aaaanyway, time to get wet!
Here we go! Using a wet sponge to dab the leather bit by bit, only on the places I am working, I got great results. Did a few passes back and forth to fix som happy accidents here and there, but overall I'm really happy with it. Leather is realy nice to work with, and the whalebone can help with undoing some minor mistakes, just rub it gently over the leather to even it back out if you haven't made too many hard dents in it. It stands out real nicely. As the wet leather dries off, it will set even tighter around the wood core.
For this crosstitch, I am using two needles and waxed linen thread which is strong and sturdy, starting at the top, going all the way down sewing crosswise. With one needle in each end of the thread, I alternated every hole just as when you lace up your shoelaces.
This also adds some nice texture to the scabbard I think. You can just glue it down completely as well, but this way it stays in place even better.
The main issue is always the tip of the scabbard. I always try to get it as snug to the scabbard core as I can. It can get a bit muddly when looked at close up, but if the end result is good, no problem. If you plan to cover the tip in a chape, then noone will ever see the messy stitchwork. Sometime I might try to make a chape out of brass plate, but not for this project. I don't have the tools. :(
This is it for part 2. I ran out of image space. I decided to divide things even more, so no coloring or metalwork this time. Stay tuned for part 3: Some splash of color!