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[wineninja]

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[oslolife-blog]

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[michaelmadrigale-blog]

The Best Bottles I've Opened in 2012 #8: 1985 Chevalier-Montrachet, Domaine Leflaive

Had this at La Paulee in San Francisco this year.  Daniel Johnnes' Burgundy lovers throwdown. It was held at the Westin in Union Square.  Lots of great sommeliers from all over the US beg, borrow and steal to get to this event.  At the event you work from 8am to 12am.  You unload cases of wine, pour wines, break down rooms, re-set rooms, eat pizza and do an intense 5 hour dinner service. And its all worth it as you get to taste some truly unforgettable Red & White Burgundies.  

The Paulee bounces back from NYC to SF every other year. As one would expect, the energy of the event changes with each city. NYC is crammed, fast paced and very intense.  SF is more spacious, more relaxed and easier. As an example, at my first La Paulee NYC in 2007, a gentleman at one of the tables handed me a bottle of '88 Chambolle-Musigny "Les Amoureuses" from Roumier to open for him. As I pulled the cork, the stench of wet cardboard came out of the bottle.  It was horribly corked. When I returned to him with the bad news he told me to bring the bottle out so he could taste it himself.  I brought it over to him, he tasted it and said, it was fine. "Decant it and pour it for everyone at the table". I couldn't believe my ears. This wine was disgustingly corked. "Are you sure?" I asked him. "Pour it" he said.  I held my nose and poured the wine. The first person to taste it nearly spit it out on the floor. "Why would you pour me a corked wine?!" he asked my incredulously. I apologized, cleared the glasses off of the table and used my napkin to wipe the egg off of my face.  All in a days work.

In SF this past year, I had a table that had a godawful string of corked/ bad bottles in a row. 

1985 Ramonet Montrachet: CORKED.

1985 G. Mugneret Ruchottes Chambertin: CORKED.

1990 Lafon Montrachet: OXIDIZED.

2001 Dujac Bonnes Mares: CORKED.

2001 d'Auvenay Bonnes Mares: CORKED.

With each bottle I approached the table with a bedside manner like Trapper John MD, "I'm sorry sir but she's not gonna make it, she's expired." I felt so bad for them. I always asked them If they'd like me to give them a taste to confirm and they always said no and that they trusted my judgment. This made me even more invested in them having good bottles of wine.  I wanted them so badly to have a great bottle of wine.  A wine that made them all smile broadly and nod heads as they tasted it.  A wine that they could share with the table adjacent because its just that good and that's what you do when you're at La Paulee. The next bottle up was a 1985 Domaine Leflaive, Chevalier-Montrachet. I had my fingers crossed.  I popped it, poured myself a taste and there it was...bulls-eye! I've had the wine a few months earlier but it didn't come close to tasting as good as this bottle did.  It's as if the bottle gained strength from the bad bottles preceding it. I was jubilant. I grabbed the bottle and skipped my way to their table with an ear to ear smile.  It was written all over my face and they smiled back at me. We didn't even have to speak.