#liveyourdreamgrant

[mcdzsblog]

Augustine's 📓, 7.19.17. Still figuring out a good platform for this with little to no internet out here. Hopefully y'all can zoom in to read the manuscript. #ascendpgh #liveyourdreamgrant (at Hawthorn Cottages & Camping)

[mcdzsblog]

First day in 🇨🇦--off to Old Baldy. #liveyourdreamgrant #ascendpgh (at Grey Highlands)

[wecravethoseminerals-blog]

Day Ten: Farewell!

January 1, 2015

As told by Eduardo and Maya:

Every great journey eventually comes to an end, and plants the seeds for bigger journeys to come. In El Potrero Chico we climbed hard, we challenged ourselves and, most importantly, we spent time together and had a ton of fun (Chica had a ton of fun, too!). Today it is time to say 'Good bye,' and 'See you on our next adventure!'

We hope you will also go out and live your own adventure. And please let us know how it goes!!!

[wecravethoseminerals-blog]

Day Six: A Lot of Crack (And a Little Bit of Slab)

December 28th, 2014

As told by Eduardo:

It rained tons last night. We were fearing we were not going to be able to climb at all today because of wet rock, but the sun came out late in the morning and burned the fog that had taken over El Potrero. Itching to get out of our place (which was cold anyways), we headed to the mountains as soon as it was warm enough.

We headed to an area called The Dihedrals, which took a little bit of a hike. The hike was beautiful in itself. We walked by the very imposing Outrage Wall on our right and The Spires on our left. From where we were climbing we were also able to see some incredibly talented climbers working on their 5.12-5.13 projects, in The Surf Bowl.

The plan was for me to lead a 130 foot crack called Dead Man Walking (5.9+). Maya would then climb it on top rope. The first 20 feet of rock were wet from the rain from the night before but the rest of the climb looked pretty good. Crack climbing is very taxing if your technique is not very good, and almost effortless if your technique is very good. Mine falls somewhere in between those two extremes. I like it plenty, and I was not going to pass an opportunity this good to get better at it.

This is me at the beginning of the route, about to clip the second bolt of the route (out of sixteen).

Dead Man Walking is sustained crack and corner climbing the whole way. I climbed steadily until after I clipped the fourteenth bolt. I then had to take a break. I was spent, unable to hold on to anything! After a short rest, I completed the climb and set it up as a top rope for Maya to try. Maya will tell you how she felt about it, but I can tell you that she did it after a few tries, and that her crack climbing technique is already very good and getting better by the day!

We then moved to a second crack: Osito (5.9+). It felt easier, in no small part because it was shorter (75 feet). I climbed it clean, Maya took one short break. From the anchor to that climb we could play around on top rope on a very hard, slightly damp, 5.12a slab climb called Bicho Borracho. We were not expecting to get very far into in, but we both wanted to know what that grade of slab climbing actually entails. The short version: it's crazy flat! We got a few moves into it (we were quite proud!) but that was it. Hard, hard stuff!! I found a way to get up the wall somehow (5 ten-ish?), clean the anchor, and get ready to hike back to the road before it got dark. It was a short day of climbing (because of the bad morning weather), but we worked hard, and did what we set ourselves to do. It was a good day!

Maya's Comments:

Overall, I agree with my dad's description of the day! I was a little panicky on the first crack due to how damp everything was, but I did as much as I know about crack and jammed my hands and feet in order to continue onwards and upwards. Now, however, the back of my left hand is intensely bruised from my first index finger knuckle all the way two inches past my wrist. I guess the human wrist wasn't designed to carry the body's entire weight!

While on the 5.12a, for whatever short period of time we spent on it, I did a goofy self belaying move in order to lift myself a few feet off the ground and started channeling my inner acrobat, though I can't say I was particularly graceful. In agreement with my dad, I'd say we had a great time!

[wecravethoseminerals-blog]

Sunset, from the top of the third pitch of Will the Wolf Survive?. Photo credit: Maya Zambrano-Lee.

[wecravethoseminerals-blog]

Day Three: Multi-Pitch!

December 25th, 2014

As told by Maya:

In honour of Christmas, my dad let me sleep in today. We didn't get out climbing until around noon. Today we planned to climb the four pitch route Will the Wolf Survive? (5.8, 5.9, 5.9, 5.10a). Luckily, the wind had let up quite a bit today.

We started the first pitch, a 5.8 route, with my dad leading as usual and me following behind and collecting the protective gear from the route that my dad had placed (known as 'cleaning' the route). The first part was an enjoyable climb with a couple tricky parts but mostly straightforward and not super challenging. I did manage to scrape up my hands badly enough that I was bleeding in a few spots, even though the back of my hands were covered by tape gloves.

The second pitch, a 5.9, increased in difficulty quickly. (If you are a climber: have you ever had those moments when you're climbing when, honestly, the only thought running through your head is, "Why? Why do I subject myself to this extreme sport?" If so, you basically have a general idea of the rest of our day.) Belaying from the top of the first pitch wasn't horrible as there was a ledge to stand on, but after a mix of crack climbing and "unlady-like" grunts that made up the middle of the second pitch, I was starting to question what exactly we were doing on this freaking Mexican mountain when I could be at home taking a bath and eating a pizza.

My dad calls moments like these Type 2 Fun. There is Type 1 Fun, which is fun in the moment. Type 2 Fun is the kind where whatever you are doing is ridiculous or exhausting or painful or scary, but you remember the experience as being fun. I will remember this trip with fond memories! 230 feet up, though, I wasn't so sure why it is we do this, "this" being literally dangling off the side of a cliff with just my safety equipment strapping me into the wall and my knees against the rock, propping me into a half-sitting position in the air while belaying my dad for about an hour and a half as he led a 5.9 climb 120 feet long. I am very proud of him, though, because his leading skills are improving! When he eventually can lead as well as he top ropes, I am going to need to step up my game because he will be a far more advanced climber than me.

The third pitch was definitely the most difficult, as by the end I was actually cursing at how badly I wanted to get to the top. I took my first fall of the trip during that climb, which disappointed me since I had otherwise been climbing clean, but it means I am finally challenging myself! At least I fell earlier rather than on the last day on the last climb, thinking I'd climbed clean the entire trip and then slipping up.

At the top of the third route, my dad and I prepped to climb the fourth pitch and then we realized it was already 5 pm, which meant it was going to start getting dark FAST. Instead of continuing to climb, we set up the rope to rappel down, which took another hour and a half (we had to do four long rappels with our 70 meter rope to get to the base of the climb!).

Luckily, we had our headlights to shine a way back down from the base of the climb so we could hike through the dark and make it to the car.

Overall, it was a fun day, though exhausting. Tomorrow we aren't climbing because honestly, we both need a break.

Hasta mañana!

Eduardo's comments:

The day was exhausting indeed, but I am elated we chose that route. The two 5.9 pitches were pretty sustained at the grade and I had to work hard to stick to the wall when my arms were getting super pumped. We were definitely challenged by the route, and we had tons of Type 2 fun and, dare I say it, lots of Type 1 fun as well. 

This was definitely Maya's hardest multi pitch experience to date and I was impressed by her fortitude and good humor throughout. When we were done, I told her that I was proud about the fact that she did not freak out while in the middle of the climb. Her response: "I did freak out a few times, dad. I just dealt with it."

We make a good team on the wall. 

[diamondinthecrux]

#bouldering #climbing #liveyourdreamgrant Photo @eljovendario (at San Fernando, Ecuador)

[diamondinthecrux]

Climbing is Only as Good as the Company

                   Photo:Dario Orellana Rodas

                     Photo:Dario Orellana Rodas

                    Photo:Dario Orellana Rodas

                   Photo: Kristin Connolly

                   Photo: Alice Halliday

                    Photo: Kristin Connolly

Amo a mis amigos de Cuenca! As soon as I was feeling sad about leaving Baños, I met the most awesome people in Cuenca. My first day, I checked out C-tres climbing gym and met Dario who introduced me to his friends - Pablo, Sam, Daniel, Ferr, Kristin, and Alice. Not soon after, I felt like I was part of the Cuenca climbing community. Everyone was so nice, welcoming, and helpful. I looked forward to going to the gym every day. While the rest of the girls were practicing aerial fabric acrobatics, I was climbing with the guys! Afterwards, we would go out, have drinks, and dance. It´s possible to climb in exotic Latin American places and feel accomplished when I send hard routes, but the climbing is only as good as the people I climb with. Again, PEOPLE MAKE THE EXPERIENCE and in Cuenca I was blown away by the generosity of the people. The guys invited me into their lives with open arms. It wouldn´t have been the same without them. They showed me Cuenca and we had such a good time! I was so lucky to experience all the good climbing spots - Cojitamabo, Paute, San Fernando, and finally Cajas; the most amazingly breathtaking place in Ecuador.  Cuenca is a wonderful city with so much to offer as far as the outdoors, culture, and people. The city has figured out a way to make the tourist feel welcome without really feeling like a tourist. The fluid mix of locals and tourists is an even exchange; the locals are proud to show their city and the tourists are happy to be included - well, not just included -- embraced! Cuenca has a solid inviting community; a community that invites you out for traditional food, to make pizza, AND to climb! I was sad to leave Cuenca, but knew I had to carry on. My time in Cuenca will always have a special place in my heart.