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MHL. (Margaret Howell) A/W 2023

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Miguel Adrover, Fall 2001 RTW

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Giorgio Armani, FW 2021

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Antonio Marras, Fall 2011

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Surcoat belonging to Edward the Black Prince, before 1376

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Agnes Richter, handmade jacket embroidered with autobiographical text, 1895. (Prinzhorn Collection)

Heather King: “It was there that she took up a needle and thread and began to embroider text on the grey green linen of her regulation asylum jacket, re-fashioned to her own shape. Using different coloured thread and an antiquated German cursive script, she furiously stitched outrage in overlapping words, jagged letters, repeated assertions of self, Ich (I) sewn over and over again; emphatic avowals of existence…It is not set out in neat lines but rather words, phrases, and sentences are crowded together at odd angles across the cloth.”

Jan Connett: "I am utterly intrigued by the idea of this jacket, stitched inside and out with what appears to be repetitive autobiographical text. It has never been completely deciphered because Agnes used an old dialect and Gothic script. Text from one side of the fabric impinges on that that on the other making it difficult to tell which wording belongs to which side; and threads on the inner surface have rubbed away through wear.

"Some phrases have been identified though:

"‘my white stockings’ ‘no cherries’ ‘brother freedom’ ‘my money’ ‘no-one in Hubertusburg’ ‘I plunge headlong into disaster’; plus Agnes’s laundry number."

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Giorgio Armani, SS 1994