THE POWER OF VISUALIZATION: I cannot stress this topic enough. Our body follows our mind, and our dogs communicate by body language and are experts at reading our energy. The power of the mind is incredible, and following these tips can help you increase your communication 100 fold. Many of you already know my two most important rules in this matter: 1)correct behavior you don't want 2) give behavior you do want. Nothing else. No asking yourself WHY, or WHAT your DOG is reacting to. When you follow these tips, you will then be reacting instinctively, just like many of us react to our children. Then you will be thinking like a dog. But it gets deeper than that. For example: 1) you are walking your dog and see a distraction coming towards you that you feel you need to avoid. If you look at the distraction, and pull your dog to the site while thinking "we need to avoid this" , believe me, your body language WILL tell that to your dog. But if you move your dog over while simply thinking "I'm deciding to move and want you to stay with me" your body language and energy shows no tension. Your dog will follow MUCH easier. if you do the first option, your eyes will be focusing on the distraction and you will be pulling your dog AWAY--both those signals state you are nervous and asking your dog to protect you. The second option simply tells your dog to follow you in the movements you making. Huge difference. This works great for nervous owners who need to "fake" confidence for their dogs. I NEVER LOOK AT THE DISTRACTION. I allow my dog to look at the distraction, or we can't ever expect them to get over it. But I keep looking down at my dog or straight ahead. If you look at the distraction you are telling your dog to react more. 2) your dog has issues with children or people in general. If you pull your dog away from them and back to you, especially thinking "don't do this particular bad behavior" you are focusing on a moment that hasn't even happened yet. Instead, bring your dog back to your SIDE, not in front of you, and think "I don't want you to pull, and I want you to stay with me at my side". That's it. Then you are simply correcting behavior and giving the behavior cues you want. One is living in a future moment (bad) the other is living IN the moment like a dog does. It's so easy to see a distraction and think "oh no, he's gonna bark,react,get scared, etc." This way, you are focusing on your dog rather than the issue that hasn't even happened yet, and giving cues to your dog on WHAT to do, rather than what you don't WANT him/her to do. The difference is huge. If I am working a reactive dog and he stiffened and tenses at something, I don't ever look at what HE is looking at. I'd ruin my timing that way, and would tell him with my eye contact on the distraction that I am focused on it too! In the animal world, that's how they signal to each other TO REACT to it. Instead, the second they stiffen or tense, I can choose to correct, but depending on the situation I usually just immediately start giving calming signals with my leash and my "calming conversation", which is a rhythmic singsong low soft voice as we walk by, combined with rhythmic gentle tugs on my leash to remind him I am right there with him, all while NEVER looking at what he is looking at. I don't care if he is stiffening at a human, a dog, a cat, a plastic squirrel, or a shadow. My body language and mood only corrects what I don't want, and gives behavior I do want. In my head, ALL I AM THINKING is "STAY WITH ME AT MY SIDE". That's it. My voice is the same thing. I never have a "Warning tone". Like when you hear people say "ok now, be nice"..... that's the voice of "ok don't do behavior that I think youre going to do"....that's you expecting behavior that hasn't even happened yet. Most of the time, your dog senses that tension and will give you exactly that. Instead, have your voice simply say what you want. Correct what you don't like simply because you don't want it. For example: correct pulling instead of pulling that might lead to aggression. Correct barking because you don't want barking, not because it's aggressive barking. Correct fixation on a cat because you don't want fixation on ANYTHING. Correct jumping because it's rude, not because it scares people. Correct lunging because it's not obedient, not because it could lead to a fight.THEN, tell your dog to stay because you want a stay, not because you DONT want your dog to lunge. Ask for your dog to sit because that's what you decided, not to PREVENT a bad behavior. When you avoid or give space to a dog on the street, do it because YOU DECIDED to move, NOT because you are avoiding that dog. Say these things to yourself in your mind. Your dog will pick up on it because our body reacts to what we are thinking. You will find yourself breathing more normally, tensing less, lowering your shoulders, relaxing your hand. When you master these visual concepts, yout will react SO much more instinctively with your dog and have better timing and better results. Your dog will trust your leadership so much more. If you find yourself imagining a bad scenario, force yourself to visualize THREE positive scenarios to counteract that. This is not some weird new agey method. This is simply us learning how to communicate the way dogs do with each other--Energy and body language. This human psychology on ourselves is vital if we want to achieve that better relationship. So DONT look at what your dog is reacting to or about to react to: instead just stop behavior you don't want simply because it's not allowed. Then give behavior you DO want simply because that's what you decided you wanted. And IF you can have good timing, you won't have to correct at all. You can just tell your dog what you want and stop any reaction right there. Sometimes I really have to "mark" immediately what I want. For instance, if I'm stopping a dog from barking in the house at passerbys, I correct the barking and the SECOND she stops barking, I mark that with a brief calm direct "good". If she remains quiet, I then keep praising with a soft, rhythmic, calm voice as she watches the people walk by. She is still tense, but she is practicing impulse control by NOT barking, and THAT is what I am praising. If I had corrected the barking and tried to get her all the way calm before praising, I would have lost the timing of telling her what I wanted. So it is sometimes as quick as "no, (or whatever verbal you want to correct) good". I am praising the lack of reaction. You can do this on your walks as well. Correct the reaction and IMMEDIATELY let them know that you like the STOPPED reaction. Just make sure your voice is calm, soft, but firm and clear. THEN you can use your rhythmic calm voice to KEEP them from reacting. I know it's really hard to fully delineate these concepts in writing, but it really comes down to this: I'm not looking at WHAT they're reacting to or thinking about why. I'm simply telling them I DONT want a reaction at all, despite what it's for. I then immediately either reinforce their LACK of a reaction, or I'm telling them behavior I WANT them to do instead, because THATS what I WANT, not because I'm trying to PREVENT something. THATS living in the MOMENT. THAT's reacting instinctively. And THATS thinking like a dog.