#misguided tutorials

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Misguided Tutorial : anime school girl skirt : Part 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5

Time to make knife pleats! 

Step 8: Hot dog fold your fabric from Part 2 as shown in photos above. Re-iron your crease if needed. We will call the “bottom” where the crease is, and the “top” where the two edges of fabric come together. 

Step 9: Use something flat, stiff, and around 1.25 inches wide*. I used a metal ruler. You can do without this, but it makes the process much faster. You want to pinch the top with one hand and the bottom with the other, flip your guide, and pin it at the top as shown. 

Step 10: Once you have all the pleats pinned, take a moment to measure the length. This measurement should be larger then your hip measurements. If it is not, something has gone wrong!* You will want it to be at least 4 inches extra. More is good! We can always trim excess length at a later stage. 

Step 11: Iron your pleats. Iron on steamer mode if you have. If you do not, keep a close eye on the temperature of your fabric. Take it slower, and use a damp towel between your iron and fabric if needed. 

Step 12: Sew a line at the top using a quilting needle. Yes, the needle type on your machine matters. A dull or wrong shape needle might damage the fabric and ruin your hard work.

Step 13: Test your skirt around your hips. View in a mirror, take photos at different angles. Now is the time to adjust the length as needed. To adjust the length sew another line below your primary line, as shown in last photo. Once you have sewn this line you can trim fabric away. If you need the back longer then the front, decide where you will want the closer to sit. I personally like to shift my closure to the back once I put my skirt on. 

Notes: 

* If you want to be super precise on your pleats, set out a ruler beside the top while you form them. You can also decrease or increase this measurement as needed to match the look of your character. 

* If your measurement is only a LITTLE short, you can save yourself by putting a small amount of gap between each pleat to earn you back some length. In other words, don’t start the pleat right where the last one ends. Give it like 1/8 or 1/4 inch of space. It changes the look a little but can help you in a crunch.

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Misguided Tutorials : School Blazer : Doki Doki Literature Club

Part 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / update coming 02-19

Step 7: Cut apart your duct tape pattern as shown above. Do not cut off your collar or pocket. You should have six pieces. 

Step 8: Line up the matching halves to check how similar in size they are. Measure overlaps. If everything is different by less then half an inch, move to step 9a. If it is more then half an inch different at spots, move to step 9b. 

Step 9a: Keep only the larger half. Put the smaller halves aside so you don’t get them mixed up. You should only have three pattern pieces now. 

Step 9b: On a large piece of paper trace what appears to be your larger piece in one color. Directly over it, trace the other half in a different color. In a third color, try to draw the line half way between the two colors as best you can. You’re attempting to create the best “medium” of the combined pieces. Cut out along this third color. This will be your pattern piece. Set aside your duct tape. 

Step 10: Use the three pattern pieces to draw on your liner fabric, about three quarters of an inch away from the edge of the pattern piece. 

Step 11: Fold your fabric in half, and cut out along these drawn lines. This should yield you two identical pieces per drawn shape. A total of six pieces of liner fabric. 

Step 12: Place the liner fabric pieces on your satin fabric. Pin it in place if needed. Cut out the satin, using your liner fabric as the guide. 

Step 13: Set aside the satin fabric for now. Starting at the center of the back, pin together your liner fabric and sew it together. Use a simple line stitch.Then sew the side pieces on, and the front pieces last. It should look like the photo above. 

Step 14: Using this liner, test that it fits on you (or the mannequin) as you expect. Fix any problems with your pattern now, especially if you had a lot of work to do for step 9b. 

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Misguided Tutorial : anime school girl skirt : Part 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 FInal

Time for the Hard Part: (you can do it)

Step 24: Put a pin in the waistband or mark it in some non-permanent way while doing a test wear. Set it on the ground and line it up to where you marked. Where the fabric overlaps, it should make V shape, as shown in the photo*. 

Step 25: Under the second pleat is where the skirt will eventually come together. Identify which pleat it naturally lines up with underneath. 

Step 26: If you lifted the “bottom” of the fabric, you can see how the pleats come together. They should make a “ >< “ shape, with your pins going where the red arrows point to. Put some guiding pins in place. You should not see them when the skirt is in the “wearing” position. The pleats should hide them entirely. 

Step 27: Open up the waistband area, and undo the top couple pins. With the zipper in the closed position, pin your zipper in place. 

Step 28: Test wear, careful not to stab yourself on a pin. Adjust your zipper as needed. If you have excess fabric, it may look a little bulky near the zipper. Don’t worry, we will trim that later. Take your time on this part. 

Step 29: Hand sew your zipper in place. 

Step 30: Flatten your pleat out of the way with your hand. Sew with a machine, starting from the bottom, up to and meeting where your zipper starts. 

Step 31: Flip your skirt inside out, and look at how much excess fabric you have. If you have a large amount, feel free to trim it as shown above. Leave enough for you to do a simple hem*. 

Step 32: Hand sew some hook and eyes at the waistband. If you’re low on time, you can use velcro instead. I do two at least, as seen in some of my photos. You can install multiple eyes to make the skirt adjustable. 

Step 33: Taadaa you’re done! Check for any missed hems and finish them with some hand sewing or “fray check” glue as needed. Try to store it with the pleats in mind or you will have to iron the pleats to make them crisp and sharp again. 

Notes:

* On the back, at the bottom of the first pleat, you may want to sew a single line at the bottom or install a snap to keep the pleat from floating out further from the rest. When you do a test wear, if you do not see this “floating”  then you’re in luck! You can skip this optional step. If you look at my first photo, you may spot the extra small line of sewing I did to fix this problem on mine. (It is to the left of the red V)

* How you hem this is up to you. Just make certain the fabric won’t start fraying on you, since it is broadcloth. You don’t want to loose all your hard work because a tear forms from a fray. People wont see it, so it just needs to be functional, not pretty. 

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Misguided Tutorial : anime school girl skirt : Part 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5

Fabric Cutting: 

Broadcloth: Make a looonnnggg rectangle piece of fabric. Iron it BEFORE measuring and cutting. The height will be “Length” Measurement multiplied by two, plus one inch. The width will be Hip Measurement multiplied by three, plus two inches. 

Interfacing: The height will be the “Length” Measurement minus one inch. The width will be Hip Measurement multiplied by three plus one inch. 

What to do with these pieces: 

Step 1: Cut out one rectangle of broadcloth described above. Cut out one rectangle of interfacing described above. 

Step 2: Fold your broadcloth in half “hotdog bun” style. Iron this where it folds so you can easily see the crease. This crease will be your visual guide for step 3. 

Step 3: Place your interfacing along this crease, as shown in the photos above. Make certain you have the adhesive side facing down towards the broadcloth. The instructions provided with the interfacing should describe to you how to identify this.

Step 4: Pin the interfacing as shown above, only along the center edge. Take care that it is as smooth and flush to the broadcloth as possible.*

Step 5: Read the instructions that came with your interfacing. Get your clean, damp* towel ready. If your interfacing did not come with instructions look up a general guide before you start on step 6. 

Step 6: Iron the interfacing onto the fabric, starting where you have the pins. Do NOT do the full ironing time described on your instructions. Do a fraction of this time. Just long enough that the interfacing is semi-adhered to the fabric. Enough that it does not move around on you when you remove the pins. 

Step 7: As shown on the last photo, fold over a small bit of fabric, about 1/2 inch on the short edges of your piece. It should make the broadcloth flush against the interfacing. Sew a simple line to create a hem here. Doing this makes a later step easier. 

Tips: 

* If you have a long tube you may find it easier to roll up your fabric after step 4 to transport it to the ironing board. 

* If your iron does not have a steaming mode, I would leave this towel on the wetter side of damp. Your interfacing is being activated by a combination of moisture and heat. This may take some practice to get right. 

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Misguided Tutorial : anime school girl skirt : Part 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 COMPLETED

Doki Doki Literature Club : progress photos : Part 1  /

Materials Needed: 

- blue broadcloth* and a matching thread 

- iron-on interfacing of the “lightweight” stiffness*

- A zipper somewhere around 4~6 inches long 

- Eye and hooks

- sewing machine, quilting machine needle, iron, ironing board, scissors

Measurements Needed: 

- hip measurement. Take this measurement where you would like the waistband of the skirt to rest at. For some people this will be closer to a standard “waist” measurement. During the tutorial I will call it a hip measurement for convenience.  

- length measurement. Take this measurement from your ‘hip measurement’ spot down to where you would like the skirt to end. Take this in the front AND the back. If they are different, take the longer number. You can easily make this shorter down the line. Do this one in front of a mirror or with help.

Notes: 

* How much broadcloth and interfacing to buy? Take your hip measurement, times it by three. Convert that to yards and add half a yard for safety. That should be really close to what you need.