Blessing and evil of being a luxury brand
What struck me most in studying the case of Burberry in Branding course framework and outside of it was the way a brand with deluxe rank can impose enormous risks to the identity of its own self simply by just being what it is with all its quintessence.
Burberry, the brand associated with finest products with over a century-and-a-half history, the brand worn by aristocrats and royalties, the brand characterized throughout time as elite, refined, attributed to traditions of fine quality and identity of fair ladies and honorary gentlemen, at certain point of its lifecycle came to be associated, contrastingly, with bad taste and identity of “chavs” – antisocial British youth subculture characterized by low class, harsh behavior and stereotypically dressed in counterfeit designer clothes. Simply unbelievable.
A few words about how this happened. The signature Burberry checks, due to its broad exposure through the massive usage in vast amount of original Burberry products, became a pattern that could be easily reproduced and counterfeited, and eventually widely adopted by lower class subcultures playing on the exposure of this feature of the deluxe British Brand, as well as some affordable and characteristic products that Burberry started to produce (e.g. a £50 checkered baseball hat). Poor control over production and distribution chains that was typical of Burberry during its brand crisis of 90-s lead to the brand being heavily affected by the phenomenon of proletarian drift – the tendency when objects related to high class inexorably become commonplace due to trends of mass production. Thus, once emblematic checks of Burberry came to be associated with poor taste and vulgar image. Popularized now, the typical checks started to get growing exposure among football hooligans, street hip-hop singers and other groups of questionable reputation. This completely changed the way people saw Burberry. The company started to fail controls over its own image, it completely lost the icon of high-end clothing, which immediately affected the sales and infected brand reputation. Burberry has become a victim of its own success
What did Burberry do in response? The very first and obvious step was to redesign collections in a way the checks exposure became controlled, tending to appear more in lining and small fine details of the products, as well as stopping the production of notorious baseball cap. However, heavily damaged brand needed an extended strategy of revival in all possible aspects apart from design – its supply chain, its distribution models, design, licensing, advertising campaigns and publicity. This was the period when Rose Marie Bravo took the CEO position and we know the successful revival story that happened from then on and took years to bring the brand back to life.
I can clearly conclude now that being a conventional and a deluxe brand in fashion are two completely different strategies of marketing and understand why designer brands want – and need – to control their brand so accurately. I understand now what they need to go through to control what their image in media and society carries, who wears their brand and what celebrities endorse it (and that explains to me very well why Burberry stopped cooperating with Kate Moss after the supermodel’s cocaine scandal and related explicit photos went viral in press), how their distribution and sales channels have to be mapped, what sort of manufacturing facilities should produce for them, how country-specific strategies should be built in global market. Every single detail of brand building matters and can easily play an evil game against its owner. Being luxury and being conventional, though operating in the same field of fashion and apparel, are two different approaches.
Key takeaways for me in cautious luxury brand management include:
· Be consistent along the personas involved in the brand, this may include all kinds of stakeholders, like customers, managers, publicity campaigns personas, historically associated characters, and celebrities that endorse the brand – all of these groups are powerful influencers
· Distinguish the brand’s story and mystique, advocate it, communicate brand’s exclusivity through it
· Grip a firm control over manufacturing, licensing and distribution chains
· Be very careful with design elements going viral and spreading into masses
· Do not consider your brand as a visual icon and do not overvalue the latter, but do protect it
· Be consistent along the brand’s price points
· Create your store and store experiences to communicate brand beliefs
· Embrace and control social media
· Have a crisis management team always ready for action
· In overall, implement strict measures of brand safety along all the campaigns












