“May your dreams be larger than mountains and may you have the courage to scale their summits.” ― Harley King
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The trek route starts from the rice fields initially and then merges with the wilderness of the nature ahead. Our trekker group was a mix of first timers and experienced one so it was inevitable that we should remain in a group while trekking. The beginning of the trek is a terrain of a pretty steep uphill climb which will test your endurance, but reward comes in the form of exotic fauna and flora which you will see nowhere else. Till you reach the first table top point you end up crossing the Pravara river multiple times and there is every chance of getting lost in the woods. After crossing the first table top, the route is pretty much straight forward, there is a bifurcation to go to Harischandragad at some distance ahead, but there is clear board with sign on it. Also, there are lots of other signs in the form of white arrows and red ribbons tied to trees to guide one to the destination. The climb through the jungle is grueling but relief presents itself as two plateaus that fall in the middle of the trek, plateaus which will surely be a relief for catching your breath and rejuvenating yourself. The terrain is mud with all size of rocks in between. The good thing is that there is an ample amount of tree cover to shield one from the sun. The jungle is well-known for wild animals, mostly wild boars. Our march towards the summit was although a bit slower but definite. Taking small halts for drinking water and relaxing a little, we proceeded further on the trail. The sky was playing hide and seek with the sun shine and heavy clouds. Although there was no rain during the trek, we expected showers on the top of the fort. After a walk of two hours or so, we reached a fork. The straight track goes to the pass of Katrabai and the right leads us to Ratangad.
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We took the right track and after walking for another half an hour we reached to the point where two iron ladders are erected for climbing. The ladders are in a difficult position and one wonders how those ancient people were climbing the fort without these ladders. Even climbing with the help of these ladders gives chills in the body. Added to this, we faced sudden shower and stormy wind, which made our climb more adventurous. By now, the sky was full of dark clouds and it was sure that we will be enjoying rain and cloud dance while on the top of fort.
Climbing the ladders with lot of caution and safety, we enter the fort through the Ganesh darwaja. This first gate of the fort is small in size. On the arch of the door we can see carved image of Bhairav and on the left side of the pillar of the gate carving of Ganesha. From Ganesh Darwaja side one can see Katarbai fort, little ahead is the Ajoba fort. One can see Ghanchakkar and Muda fort towards east. The backwaters of Bhandardara dam are visible throughout the fort ridge.
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After crossing this gate and turning right we reach in front of Hanuman gate. There is a cave temple just before this gate, where one can stay. Inside the cave, there is statue of Ratandevi, the deity of the fort. There is another spacious cave just ahead of this point, where people can stay. We then proceed to Hanuman gate and cross ahead to reach the top of the fort. As we go ahead, we come across a circular single bastion called “Ranicha Huda”. Nearby to this there is a water tank. On the eastern part of the fort, there is a large water tank which is full of water. On the edge of this water tank, Shivalinga and a small Nandi statue can be seen.
Moving ahead on this trail, we will come across three more water tanks. There are lots of water tanks spread across the fort, though the water didn’t look portable. Now we move further to west side on the track hidden in the tall grass, we come across the ruined Konkan Darwaja. Nearly half of this gate is buried in the ground. The gate way is small and beautiful but the path proceeding through it is blocked with stones. Here also we can see some water tanks carved in stone which has potable water in it. The track passing by the side of these water tanks takes us to the northern tip. From here we can see beautiful view of Alang, Kulang and Madan forts in the distant.
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Before proceeding to Nedhe, we will come across a cave and a small entrance to it. Out of curiosity, one of our trek member decided to enter the cave and see the inside of the cave. Fortunately, I had a torch with me (it is always a part of my trekking gear, whether it is a day trek or night trek). After entering this cave, we can see a water tank inside, which is potable and a huge space on the other side. This was amazing and just imagine the usage of the same in those time for peaceful rest without anybody’s disturbance. From here we will proceed towards the Nedhe. The huge rock sheet wall on the northern side of the fort, we can see a big natural hole in the wall, called “Nedhe” in marathi (Eye of the Needle). The way towards Nedhe is slippery due to scree and lot of precaution is to be taken. After reaching the Nedhe, one can sit in the Nedhe and enjoy the blissful breeze of wind. There is a way passing through this nedhe on the other side of the fort. We pass through this nedhe and come to the spacious and magnificent Trimbak darwaja facing north side of the fort. This door is unique door and there are vestibules on both side of the door. Trimbak darwaja used to be the main entrance to the fort at those times. This door descends through 150 stone cut stairs and one has to stick to the cliff side of these stairs while descending. The stairs lead to a shining crag called “Khutta”. After exploring the “Khutta”, one can go down from this side and reach Ratanwadi in two to three hours’ time. It is a different thrill to ascend from a different way and descend from a different way. This gives an opportunity to explore the fort in a complete way. So we decideed to descend from Trimbak darwaja route and reach Ratanwadi.
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The complete exploration of the fort needs around 3-4 hours and we are happy that we could do that by time management right from the start of trek. We were lucky that the rain god marked its presence when we were on the fort. The wandering through showers and the clouds was amazing and memorable. The best part of the trek was walking with the clouds which is simply beyond any description. Ratangad fort is huge and the few remains on the fort tell us the glory of the fort in silent words. It is truly the “Jewel of the Fort”.
After having lunch and some more rest on the fort, we started descending the fort through Trimbak darwaja. The descend of 150 stairs from Trimbak Darwaja was more challenging. One has to stick to the cliff side while descending the stairs as there is a huge fearsome valley on the right side. The wind gushing through the valleys makes you unbalanced and the shower makes the stairs more slippery. It took us about 2 hours and thirty minutes to climb down and come to the base village.
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After reaching base village, we proceeded towards the Amruteshwar temple. This temple is a Hemadpanthi type of creation. Beautiful carvings on the wall are the main attraction of this temple. The temple and the area surrounding it is kept clean and auspicious. One gets a sense of fulfilment in the company of this temple. The trek to Ratangad is incomplete without visiting this wonderful temple.
It was time to return now. We all proceeded to Pune by our vehicle with lot of cherished and enliven memories. One thing was for sure, that we all gathered and travelled together with one aim, without knowing each other. But while returning, we all came to the same wavelength and became good friends. What else one can expect from a hobby like trekking? That is the spirit of helping each other, extending hand to fellow trekker in case of difficulty and a sense of responsibility towards our great heritage and wonderful, mystic nature.
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The trek to Ratangad fort – The Jewel of the Forts: Part-II (Concluding) “May your dreams be larger than mountains and may you have the courage to scale their summits.”
